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2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
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Yon don't want to pull the diff from the subframe until you remove the subframe...and unless you are replacing the diff, you don't want to do it afterwards, either. It will come out with the subframe just fine, and will be a very good place to lower the hole thing with your transmission jack.
 

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1982 300SD
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30 Posts
In defense of my direction: my rational is to distribute the weight I'd need to deal with, in steps. I need to replace some of the diff's seals. Is there an issue with separating the diff from subframe that I should be aware of?
 

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1982 300SD
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Apologies for pestering, but I can't seem to sort out the parking brake cable removal.
The subframe w/diff are precariously balanced on my tranny-jack and I've so far ripped apart the pass-side rear e-brakes, but for the life of me, I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect the cable, even with the back-side bolt removed, shoes are off, yet.... anyone have a favored set of parking brake cable r&r pictorial? I've spent the past hour using The Google, with little success. Thanks - in advance!
 

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1982 300SD
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30 Posts
Alright, the parking brake cable, along with the pads, springs, etc., are out. The rubber grommet that the cable is channeled through is also pushed out of the way and there's NO way the cable can be disengaged from the subframe from the wheel-side. I'm assuming, that the parking brake cable must have a mechanical connection somewhere down the center-line of the car which is then routed to the parking brake pedal. Wouldn't want this job to be any easier then it should (could) be. Oh well, the trailing arm bolts are now completely accessible, allowing me to remove them from the subframe and take them to my shop for their bushings to be R&R (no, not rest and relax).

Thanks for allow me to blather on about this.
 

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7 Posts
Ok. It is out.

The whole lot is out.
Spring comoressor was totally in the way. It would need the Mercedes type with 2 plates and bolt in the middle of the spring.


Anyway, procedure was:
0) Remove/undo prop shaft, brake hoses, hand brake cables, wheels etc.
1)Car on stands. Jack under brake disc/arm.
2) Undo shock absorber top and bottom and remove it.
3) Lower jack slowly. Arm will bottom out on a stop.
4) Repeat for other side.
5) Jack under diff and undo diff rear mount 4 bolts.
6) 2nd jack under subframe next to left front mount.
7) Undo mount bolts.
8) Lower both jacks slowly until spring is free and remove it.
9) Lift diff jack again and move second or 3rd jack to right side subframe.
10) Repeat from 6) and get spring out.

Lower the whole thing slowly and evenly with the jacks and that is it!

Regards
Bern5
Great! Thanks for sharing.
 

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Premium Member
2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
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3,603 Posts
The parking brake cable has a connection and, IIRC, an adjuster above the driveshaft. I didn't disconnect mine, but by the time I got that far, I'd pretty much destroyed the parking brake anyway, so it didn't matter a whole lot. (Protip: Don't set the parking brake before you go to pull the rotors off, lest you be unable to release it again and have to destroy the rotors to get them off...)

The main reason you don't need to separate the diff from the subframe is that it doesn't gain you anything: a transmission jack on the diff is the best way to maneuver the subframe. With that said, if you need to, you need to, and I wouldn't worry about it much.
 
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