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Mercedes V220 CDI Auto - 2002
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Hi All, I've trawled up so old posts going back 3 years ago so would like something a bit up to date.

I've got a clunk from the front of the car when at slow speed turning over a pot hole or going up a kerb. Sounds too deep to me to be steering rack, but that's what my local MB garage would like to say and charge me to replace the steering rack.

I've checked the wheels and can't find anything obvious, (track rod ends and steering appear fine). And drives fine with no lack of control in the steering.

I read some old posts one to test the steering rack. (Stationary with the engine running turn the wheels lock to lock and see if any clunk - if there is then it could be steering rack if not then it's doubful). To clunk when I do this.

Also I read about the "door" test again at stationary open the drivers door and use it as a lever to rock the car from side to side, if there is a clunk then it could be Antiroll bar bushes. When I did this test I did get the clunk.

Can anyone confirm this and where are they / how easy to change??

help would be most welcome.

regards
 

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I just changed the anti-roll struts yesterday, both sides - I also had the same sort of clunk you described (but it's still there :(

To remove/install the anti-roll struts, you need to hold the bolt stud with a Torx bit while turning the bolt on the other end. Have a look at the end of the stud and you'll see where the Torx goes.

I didn't lift the van, but it's a tight fit under. Turning the wheels full one way will help as will lying with your feet towards the front.

The old strut bushings were visibly torn, and there was that clunk at slow speeds and when rocking the van, so I thought it definitely would have fixed it. Unfortunately, although it seems a major part of the clunk is gone, there still is a little clunk. Maybe it was anti-roll bushings + something else.

So now I need to find the something else.
 

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2000 Vito 110CDI (never should have sold it), Current project 1999 V220 Ambient
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I thought I would bring this one up again.

the clunking on my 638 has been getting steadily worse lately. My MOT has just come up so I looked back at the MOT history online and see that for the MOT before I bought it there was an advisory that the anti-rollbar bushes were worn.

It didn't come up on the next MOT so either they didn't notice it (unlikely) or the vendor replaced them before he sold it (possibly unlikely too).

Anyway I notice that the rubber on the ball joints on the link arms for the roll bar were torn so I replaced them.

Taking off the link arms one at a time with both front wheels off the ground there was definitely play and a clanking when I moved the free end up and down (I thought that's OK then the £100 for the links wasn't wasted)

Unfortunately although the noise is now much quieter it hasn't entirely gone.

While the wheels were off the ground I noticed that there is just the slightest amount of play in the steering rack (i.e. the steering arms allow the wheels to turn a slight amount and the play is not in the track rod ends, both wheels turn the same amount until they stop with a knock)

I assume that it is backlash in the rack, is there any way of repairing or adjusting it or do I have to replace the rack?
 

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vito 110cdi 2001 | ^^^ MY Dream Van ^^^
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Hi IM wondering if this is maybe what i have?
I have what seems to be a constant loud noise ( like a bike with no exhaust ) i know you are saying its a knocking and mines a rumble constant but only from 25 mph + and only if straight line or turning right. Turning left its quiet.

ummmmm what to do

walsi >

has helped me greatly and thinks it is the bearings.
I have tried the 12/6 wheel shake but it seems good.

I took for a slow drive and tried also jerking turning the steering wheel left /right suddenly and i get a kinda clunking noise say like as if the suspension top nut is not tight enough or something is loose.

I jacked up the front both wheels ( checking discs ) and just looked generally under engine but all looks fine but what do i know??

Me keeps investigation ( have to sort this rumble as radio is on mega loud).:eek:
 

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2000 108CDI, 2007 120 CDI long, Suzuki K5 GSXR track bike, 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
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Jonny rash, did you really pay £100 for the drop link arms, they are only £10 a pair, the noise is proberly down to play in the anti roll bar bush's, just put a crowbar behind it and give it a tweek to see if it moves. The other option is play at the top of the struts but its very unlikely. There is a bit of play in the vito rack as standard so i would leave it alone, if its ok for the mot then in my book its best left alone.
spytron did you spin the wheel while the van was jacked up, was there any noise from the wheel?? its either gearbox, diff noise or wheel bearing / driveshaft support bearing. If it is really loud you need to find out what is making the noise before whatever it is fails on you. The clunking could be the drop links or antiroll bar but they tend to make a noise when going over a bump rather than when turning the wheel. The other thing to check is that the top strut bearing has not broken up or that you have a broken spring

Cheers Martin
 

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vito 110cdi 2001 | ^^^ MY Dream Van ^^^
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HI Thanks Martin

The wheels spun fine no noise or woble ( i think its drive shaft) i will asap see if i can make a video of the sound when driving if helps failing that i think its time for a mech to check over it ( as mot is due soon ) gulp.

I looked at the springs they look good solid couldnt really see up to top of strut springs. ( will get pics of the transmission if i remember)

Shame as its a good vito apart from the noise oh and today i check discs and order new front pads only as all discs ok in range of 22-20mm. :)

Funny tho hand brake needs adjusting ( loads of thickness of rear pads) just handbrake rubbish i guess adjustment at rear centre as i can see.

sorry to keep bothering you guys ( espically you martin) you have helped me loads. maybe i should get a manual ??

funny thing is i dont know what the type of play or not is allowed on the shafts and bearings on this merc. Just using my general knowledge of cars i have worked on.

I will let you soon know of the out come
:bowdown:
 

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2000 Vito 110CDI (never should have sold it), Current project 1999 V220 Ambient
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Jonny rash, did you really pay £100 for the drop link arms, they are only £10
Don't tell me that Martin

City West Commercials Exeter.

description of goods MA638 323 04 68 03D03 Link Rod £46.30
MA638 323 05 68 03D03 Link Rod £46.30

total including VAT £111.12

that is quite different from £10! It might be worth me challenging them on this
 

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2000 108CDI, 2007 120 CDI long, Suzuki K5 GSXR track bike, 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
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HI Thanks Martin

The wheels spun fine no noise or woble ( i think its drive shaft) i will asap see if i can make a video of the sound when driving if helps failing that i think its time for a mech to check over it ( as mot is due soon ) gulp.

I looked at the springs they look good solid couldnt really see up to top of strut springs. ( will get pics of the transmission if i remember)

Shame as its a good vito apart from the noise oh and today i check discs and order new front pads only as all discs ok in range of 22-20mm. :)

Funny tho hand brake needs adjusting ( loads of thickness of rear pads) just handbrake rubbish i guess adjustment at rear centre as i can see.

sorry to keep bothering you guys ( espically you martin) you have helped me loads. maybe i should get a manual ??

funny thing is i dont know what the type of play or not is allowed on the shafts and bearings on this merc. Just using my general knowledge of cars i have worked on.

I will let you soon know of the out come
:bowdown:
Hi ya, hand brake is not on the pads bud, the hand brake uses shoes that are inside the rear discs, you adjust them through one of the wheel stud holes. Vito's are well known for having a poor handbrake very soon after you adjust it. If you do a search you will find pleanty of info from just a couple of weeks ago about adjusting the handbrake and how to do it properly and not doing properly.
Don't ever worry about asking questions as that is why we are here and have forums, if we didnt want to share that knowledge then we wouldn't say anything when questions are asked.

Cheers Martin
 

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Vito 112 CDi year:2001
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Stabilisers £19.50 inc. each from euro carparts. They do cheaper pair too.

The noise when my wheel bearing went was a rumbling noise from the foot well that steadily got louder as the motorway miles clocked up and was more noticeable eg. when changing lanes or steering a bend at speed. Sounded almost like out of trim propellers on a plane. Jacked the front of the van up and there was a difference in play between the 2 front wheels. When I got the old bearing off the ball bearings were pitted by failed bits of metal from the race.

The other knock I've had was a failed suspension bush. This was a rattle when going over bumps around town that sounded like it was coming from behind the driver's instrument dash/air blower. When I took the old one out the ball race had failed.

I've now changed both wheel bearings, shocks & shock mountings, tie rod ends, anti roll bar bushes & stabilisers & drivers side CV joint. I'm now left with one rattle, passenger side around the foot well, more apparent when the window's down & when going over crumbling roads around town. Seems like its coming from the steering knuckle area. Wondering if its the start of the other CV joint going. However, there was no apparent clunking when turning a slow circle.

Funnily enough, I only noticed this rattle after I had changed the shocks & mounts and the other rattle was cured. Rechecked my work by unmounting & refitting the shock but no change. I had wondered if it was a rattle on the caliper but the rattle's still there during braking. Any suggestions?

One thing I found when removing the shocks was there was no need for a spring compressor to remove & refit the shock assembly off the steering knuckle. With a foot on the control arm down I was able to remove/refit the shock mounting bolts without the force of the springs acting them.
 

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vito 110cdi 2001 | ^^^ MY Dream Van ^^^
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The noise when my wheel bearing went was a rumbling noise from the foot well that steadily got louder as the motorway miles clocked up and was more noticeable eg. when changing lanes or steering a bend at speed. Sounded almost like out of trim propellers on a plane. Jacked the front of the van up and there was a difference in play between the 2 front wheels. When I got the old bearing off the ball bearings were pitted by failed bits of metal from the race.
AArrrrr that sounds just like i have ummmmm i'm guessing Martin was right all along:thumbsup:

How did it all go getting the wheel bearings out ? what tools and did you use your own press ( as im thinking if getting on would a 10ton press work or even a 6ton one? ) Did you need any extra press bits to push the bearing out ?
 

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2000 108CDI, 2007 120 CDI long, Suzuki K5 GSXR track bike, 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
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Hi ya, i posted on another thread about pressing the wheel bearings out, i have a 12 ton press which has done a few but i did need a 25 ton one for one bearing that didn't want to let go. It was money well spent buying the press and has been used for all sorts of jobs but i really would go for the 12 ton if you are thinking of doing wheel bearings.

Cheers Martin
 

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Sorry to restart this thread

I am a newbie, owner of a used M/B Vito 115 (2006). Although technically minded, I have no idea of what the suspension and steering parts look like, where they are located or how to access them. Just call me illiterate on vehicle mechanics. I will pick up fast though. I am an electronic engineer with 20+ years advanced embedded design experience.

I am sick and tired of paying vast amounts of money for scrappy work on my cars here in South Africa and would like to fix what is wrong and not throw money after people who claim to be mechanics but understands less than I do myself claim to be wrong.

My Vito rattles (sounds as if on the wheel somewhere) on the left hand (passenger) side. I am told it is the control arm bushes that are worn and need replacement. I inspected these bushes and see no problem with them.
The Vito has oval wheels (they are not round). In addition the left front tyre is wearing unevenly (it wears much faster on the inside). I also have a slight play on the steering when turning the steering wheel in the opposite position

I would like to inspect all the joints and fixtures on the suspension and the steering, but I do not know where to find them or what is normal and what not. For example: how do I get to the top mounting of the shock absorber to inspect the bush and the bolts?

Is there a place where I can find more information on the suspension and steering parts?
 

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Vito 114 tourer 2015: Vito 108d 97: 108d 98: Traveliner 2003 ; Aixam; z1100; xbr500; z440 ++++
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ok firstly, if you seriously want to work on a merc you must get a copy of WIS & EPC (workshop information system and electronic parts catalogue) they are genuine software from mercedes and are the system used in mercedes dealers.

you want the newest version you can get - readily available on ebay uk and the latest version is always within the last 6months and covers ALL mercedes upto that date.

wis has all the sevice and testing information and epc gives you part illustrations and numbers

you are buying copied software (fully legal) but the money is for a licence, just make sure its a permanent licence not 1 year (a few people might try it on) any problems are sorted by the seller via email or ask here.

there are not really any other manuals available apart from the russek ones but they cannot compare with wis....... if you want to see the sort of info provided, look for paperclips on the forum posts... I post a lot of pdfs which are printouts from wis.
------------------

you can tell nothing by looking at bushes unless they are so bad the van ought to have been scrapped, bushes aren't that expensive (esp on ebay) and always a good investment.

the tyre wear is indicative of either tracking (wheel alignment) being out.... or the camber adjustment is out.
both are normally done by a tyre fitter but can be done yourself.

unfortunately to do alignment you need a device called trackrite from gunson or trackace from trackace.co.uk........... they are laser devices and very easy to use but cost under £100uk. which is why most people use a tyre fitter.

camber can be done at home with an inclinometer for about £25 from hong kong (via ebay) its a digital spirit level and very easy.

I did a long bit with someone a couple of weeks ago about alignment and it should still be on the forum.

malcolm (long reply but I hope it helps a fellow sparky)
 

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Viano 2012 W639
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Disc Brake Caliper Guide Pin

My 2012 Viano has the same noise ( but have not done anything yet), mostly on right hand side. I can recall that the noise sound like what had happened and solved on my old BMW. the mechanic offered an over-sized disc brake guide pin to fit the brake housing and the noise gone ever since, But i do not know Mercedes has that kind of thing offer. Anyone have any idea.
 
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