Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I have combed through many threads and online manuals and I am sort of stumped or possibly out of my league continuing to work on my air suspension. A quick rundown and hopefully there is something I am missing or you guys can point me in the right direction. First issue was a leak at the valve block. I would come outside and car would be on all 4s completely deflated. I would start it up and the compressor would kick on and the car would level out totally fine. I replaced the valve block with afm part and it worked for about 2 days with no leaks. Then one day as I was driving the rear completely deflated and the fronts were up in the air. Tried messing with the button in the dash to get it to level out to no avail. I drove for a few days and it would switch between deflating the fronts and inflating the back then deflating the back and inflating the fronts. I thought maybe I recieved a defective valve block to I replaced it again with an OEM mercedes block. Put it in and now nothing. The pump kicks on for about 10 seconds and nothing happens. I put the old part in and it completed inflated the whole car making it look like a monster truck and it is not driveable that way as everytime i hit a tiny bump the car gets some air like its going off a ramp. I replaced the pump as well just for a precaution. Fuses and relay have been replaced. Any thoughts? Its so weird that it would inflate different sides of the car, work sometimes and not others. But now I am stuck with it either completely deflated or completely inflated.
 

·
Registered
Too many to list
Joined
·
8,744 Posts
The aftermarket block worked correctly for two day’s . That’s about right for cheap Chinese parts.

was The oem mb block you next put in NEW or used ? If you put in a used one I bet you were sold a faulty used one.
 

·
W220 Moderator
Joined
·
6,174 Posts
Hi,

This is a classic case of how the meagre Cost of SDS would have saved you more than you have currently spent on Parts and your Time, not to mention Vehicle Down Time and Frustration elements ;)

Parts Darts is not the answer, SDS does not just read Fault Codes, it does a million more things, the most appropriate one for this post would be all the "Guided Testing", which WILL Pin Point the Culprit ;)

That said, I totally agree with @tusabes, either buy a new / rebuilt Valve Block from Arnott or MB, or buy 2 or 3 Good Used MB ones and try them.

Chinese car parts are, without exception a lottery, and more are pure junk right out of the box, than the odd few good ones !!

HTH,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The aftermarket block worked correctly for two day’s . That’s about right for cheap Chinese parts.

was The oem mb block you next put in NEW or used ? If you put in a used one I bet you were sold a faulty used one.
It was used with a warranty so I can get a replacement just seemed weird to me that I received two different faulty valve blocks. Maybe I will try to put the leaking one back in and see if I can get it driveable at least
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi,

This is a classic case of how the meagre Cost of SDS would have saved you more than you have currently spent on Parts and your Time, not to mention Vehicle Down Time and Frustration elements ;)

Parts Darts is not the answer, SDS does not just read Fault Codes, it does a million more things, the most appropriate one for this post would be all the "Guided Testing", which WILL Pin Point the Culprit ;)

That said, I totally agree with @tusabes, either buy a new / rebuilt Valve Block from Arnott or MB, or buy 2 or 3 Good Used MB ones and try them.

Chinese car parts are, without exception a lottery, and more are pure junk right out of the box, than the odd few good ones !!

HTH,
Ya first time using them but had my fingers crossed since this is really just my "beater" car with 200k miles on it. Still going strong tho and a super comfortable to drive. I want to get SDS but the software looks a bit daunting lol
 

·
Registered
Too many to list
Joined
·
8,744 Posts
It was used with a warranty so I can get a replacement just seemed weird to me that I received two different faulty valve blocks. Maybe I will try to put the leaking one back in and see if I can get it driveable at least
Not weird at all. You got a working Chinese part that failed quickly , which is common .

and you got a bad used part, which is also common
 

·
Registered
2005 S600
Joined
·
533 Posts
It’s your “beater” - But in the engine thread, you’ve got $4,000 into it, right?

so, $500 to stop wasting $$$ seems well-spent...
 

·
Registered
2000 S430, 2003 S430, 2000 S500, 2003 S600 TT, and 2005 E320 CDI
Joined
·
4,558 Posts
Hi,

This is a classic case of how the meagre Cost of SDS would have saved you more than you have currently spent on Parts and your Time, not to mention Vehicle Down Time and Frustration elements ;)

Parts Darts is not the answer, SDS does not just read Fault Codes, it does a million more things, the most appropriate one for this post would be all the "Guided Testing", which WILL Pin Point the Culprit ;)

That said, I totally agree with @tusabes, either buy a new / rebuilt Valve Block from Arnott or MB, or buy 2 or 3 Good Used MB ones and try them.

Chinese car parts are, without exception a lottery, and more are pure junk right out of the box, than the odd few good ones !!

HTH,
Dave's not just whistlin' Dixie here. Just this last weekend, I fixed an AIRmatic problem with the wife's car. It was as the guys here called it, the metal linkage between the rear level sensor and the anti-sway bar. Checked it out with SDS, and i was able to rule out a bunch of stuff.

Previously, on the 2003 S430, I traced down a problem to a faulty valve block, thanks to SDS. That got replaced, and the car is fine.

The software's a little daunting at first, sure. But you get used to it. It's really not all that hard to figure out. The hardest part is the thought process of troubleshooting, I find, and that's going to be true with any vehicle.

And 100% agreed on going OEM on this. It's $300 once every 140,000 to 150,000 miles. That's a bargain.
 

·
W220 Moderator
Joined
·
6,174 Posts
Hi,

I would not advise refitting the leaky Valve Block, leaks will ruin the Compressor in short order .............

I currently have a V10 VW Touareg in here, he's been driving for ages with a minor (White) Fault Message on Dash and then it turned to Red message .......................

Ran VAG Com diagnosis, live Data suggested Compressor running, but maxing at 6 Bar, (should be 13 - 14 Bar).

Compressor clapped out ............... so we are at 4 hours plus £800 for Arnott rebuilt Compressor (my Retail price), got it all fired up last night, no message, but car seemed to be taking a long time to raise, then locked out with a "time out" Code ..................

Now only reaching 9 bar this is due to some leaks .................

Yep, just before close of play last night I made up a little fitting, used Airline to pressure up the cicuits and so far, at least 2 badly leaking Struts on the front, again these will be replaced with Arnott retailing at £658 each, you do not want to know the figures VW quoted lol .................

I'm yet to test the Rear Air Circuits this morning ...................



My Customer is OK with this, he loves that old beast, and knows when fixed these parts will last another 180,000 miles ;)

TBH I hate VW Audi Group products with a passion, but this fully loaded 5.0 Diesel V10 Touareg is actually an exception, I do kinda like that old Bear ;)
 

·
Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
Last I checked a brand new OEM MB valve block was $245 + tax.

How much is your time worth? Is it worth faffing about, jacking up the car a million time, removing the valve block who knows how many times and wasting your time chasing after pennies?

Diag right, buy once, stop thinking after.
 

·
Registered
Too many to list
Joined
·
8,744 Posts
In the USA when you buy a genuine Mercedes part from a Mercedes dealer (even an online dealer parts website ) it comes with a two year warranty that covers labor costs if defective . So if you install a new mb part and it’s defective you can take it to a mb dealership and they will swap it out free
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top