Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
Joined
·
17,161 Posts
Those would the Haynes manuals. Those things aren't worth the paper they're written on.

Here's one of their top classics. Makes you wonder who the photographer would be for chapter 1 "Design and Production"? ;)

2618234
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I have a Bentley manual for a BMW E90. While I learned how to access BMW TIS I find their book accurate and detailed enough for the jobs they cover, to be equivalent to the actual original instructions. It does not cover everything, but I'm happy with it. Hayes (did I spell that right?) was one of the earliest manuals I got for the W123. Strangely it has pictures of spark plug wear, even though the car is a diesel. That one left a lot to be desired).

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Yep I have a BMW E92 myself and have the Bentley manual for that car and just got the Owner's Bible for my "new" 400E. I also ordered they Haynes repair manual for the 400E just to have it....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Keep in mind that the W124 are pre-FSS era vehicles, and the use of synthetic oil does pretty much nothing but to lighten the wallet.

What IS far more important is to check the ZDDP content of the oil you intent to use, as ZDDP is the main lubricating additive that these engines require and is becoming rare in modern day oils.

If in doubt what to use, refer to MB's own Bevo lists which contains oils that are tested and certified by MB.

FWIW...........................

If you are looking oil's with high ZDDP{Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate] look at oils from Driven Racing Oil.

Review there "Training Center" web site;

Good general learning information on oil's for automotive.

Regards

Joseph~
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
I started using Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil...high levels of zinc and phosphorous. Amsoil is a gross waste of money unless you're a 'dealer'. I can find good prices for the Valvoline product and it's in a lot of places.

And you CAN have levels of zinc & phosphorous too high...they'll be corrosive. The track racers use really high levels of zinc & phosphorous 'not for street' oils, but it gets drained out after the race.

Kevin
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
'85 300D Turbo, '91 420SEL, '92 190E 2.6, '09 C350, '12 E63 Wagon
Joined
·
3,167 Posts
Zinc is zinc

Dialkyl means two carbon groups

Dithio means two sulfur groups

Phosphate means phosphate.

Every one of those molecules adds one zinc and one phosphate, but two sulfur atoms.

The consequences?.?.?.?.

Sulfur is a concern for catalytic converters as I understand....

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
Cheaper oils that evaporated and were burned out wound up taking cats out. Higher quality oils that can keep oil consumption down, will not harm cats. In fact, most high-quality Euro spec oils have higher levels of ZDDP than we did in our NA oils.

I took the cat off my old original TE with 285,000 and put it on my present TE. Somebody put a 'wired on' patch over this TE's cat and it blew out and caused a fire......long story, already been told in here. Anyway, this cat has now over 300,000 miles on it.

Kevin
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
No doubt. Amsoil is like the Amway and/or Herbalife of the automotive sector. Pyramid scheme
I always said if their product is so great why don't they sell it retail like everyone else. Eventually, they did, but at insane prices.....almost if to punish those that dare challenge them. Their products do rate highly in independent testing.

I tried using their 100:1 oil mix for chainsaws.....horrible smell and mess....but it didn't hurt the saws. And I used their synthetic tranny ATF in the first TE.....then it had the MB spec and then later on when I went to buy more, it was dropped....so that left the stable too. Strange company........

Kevin
 

·
Registered
1989 300CE & 1971 280SE; 73.5 911T
Joined
·
161 Posts
Mercedes-Benz engineers make a point of writing in the Owner's Manuals that more frequent oil changes will contribute to longevity of their engines.

It is the accumulation of particulate matter & pollutants in the engine oil that causes metal surfaces to erode/wear.

So, no matter which oil you use, changing it at recommended intervals is a good practice.
 

·
Registered
'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
Joined
·
17,161 Posts
^This except for the "changing at recommended intervals". If you change the oil at half the distance intervals (3K mi/5k km) vs. 6K/10K km you will contribute to maximum engine life.

This is especially true on today's cars with insane intervals of up to 20K mi/30+k km). And surprise, surprise, a LOT of modern German cars across the board (MB, Audi/VW, BMW) have problems with the distribution chain and carbon build up. What a frickin' surprise. I wouldn't buy a modern car in the used marketplace knowing the oil hasn't been changed up to 2 years or 20K miles.

Change that oil, and change it often. I'd rather swap oil then swap engines. And for the Greta Thunberg disciples, go suck on a tailpipe and if you're still breathing after 5 minutes then obviously the car is not the enemy. The planet will always look after itself.
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
What separates a mediocre oil from a great oil is the additive package. What's in that package keeps the harmful particulates in suspension and your oil from becoming acid. When that package expires is the time your engine is most vulnerable. Short of having your oil tested; change hot, change often.

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
On a 1991 300E with a 3.0 motor, what would be the correct oil?
I've always used Mobil 1 0W40, is this advisable being that I live in Miami Beach where temps rarely get into the 50s?
Is Rotella 15W40 too thick for this motor?
Thanks in advance.
In Queensland Australia I use Penrite HPR 15 in my 2002 W210 E240 which is MB229. 1 certified and equiv to 15W-50/20W-50, and Penrite HPR 10 in my 2003 C200 kompressor which is MB229. 1 and MB229. 3 certified (10W-40 and 15W-40 replacement recommendation). Even my Merc factory trained mechanic friend agrees with me now as these have really good high temp stability.
 

·
Registered
1995 E320 wagon
Joined
·
452 Posts
Castrol 20w50 conventional oil. This was directly from. Mercedes engine rebuilder. No synthetic, no light oils. Plain 2050
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
I say nay nay on the Castrol. However they changed their formulation over the yrs, it was not in the best interest of these engines. I used that oil on my Jags and loved it, so I put that in my original TE I bought new and my ex did the same when she had the car. The valve train looked terrible when I got the car back from the ex and the lifters were noisy.

Kevin
 

·
Premium Member
'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
This is great.....I'm hoping he tests some of the cottage industry oils like Redline, Amsoil et al. This is even complete with lab result tests. Shell Rotella beat Mobil 1.


Kevin
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top