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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, just figured I'd say hey. I recently traded my way into a '77 240d, with a 5cyl from a w115, and after looking around for some info I found my way here :thumbsup: this site has been a great help.

I've also got a line on a free, yes free, '78 280e euro :D hopefully I will have that squared away in the next couple of weeks. I'm not sure if the motor is any good or not yet though.

Anyway, I mostly just lurk so you won't hear much from me until I get to tear into the 280.

Thanks again for all the help.
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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6,561 Posts
Hi Tom,

You have to come back and post a picture of the free car if the deal goes through.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yeah for sure, I'm really excited about it. It's a light gray extorior with matching steelies and hubcaps, black and gray cloth interior, manual windows front and rear, and no a/c. It even has the safety triangle in the trunk. unfortunately it's been sitting for a while with the air cleaner off, the radiator out, and the windows down so it's definately going to take some work.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
well here are a couple of photos. the upholstery is in such good shape, but the rest of the car isn't.

do you guys think it would be worth fixing up?







and the worst part...


and a buddy shot with the 240/300


oh, it also has full dual exhaust and no cat. but it does have the air pump.
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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6,561 Posts
What happened to the front wing - that's a strange "whoops I dropped something ding"!

Dust gets everywhere and I'm sure it will be a pain to remove it all; but I think it would be worth it.

However, if you are in any doubt you could put it in a container and send it to my place if you want and I'll look after it for you.


As far as I am concerned - anything can be fixed. The real deal killer on these cars (and many others) is rust. If there's no rust then you're good to go. To do a top notch job you'd be spending thousands and thousands though - but you could get it up and running for a lot less I'm sure.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
My guess on the ding, the pull tab is missing from the hood latch, I think somebody tried to pry the hood open.

Yeah, a restoration of any kind is well beyond my means, likewise freight to The Netherlands might be a little steep as well.

From what I can see, there is almost no rust. the floor pans look great under the carpet.

I have already sourced a temporary radiator until I can get an idea of what it will require to get it running. Unfortunately I have no place to park it until I move next month, so until then I can only do some research on it.

Does anybody have any idea where the engine ID number is? I was unable to locate it while i was there.
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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6,561 Posts
The engine number on my diesel is on the right hand side of the engine as you stand in front of it looking at it in the car just under the joint between the rocker cover and the block (where the rocker cover gasket should be!)... my guess is to look there first.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I did look there, but the intake manifold is right in front of that location.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well it seems I've indeed been bitten by the MB bug.:D

I picked up two 1984 300d turbos for $100

One (the beige car) has a wicked knock and a loose turbo, so it has become the parts car, and the other one (gold car) had a leaky oil cooler line, a jammed up lock cylinder, clogged up fuel system, a malfunctioning brake master cylinder, and a vacuum system that is the very definition of dysfunctional.

I'm happy to say however, that I have fixed most of those issues and got it registered yesterday. Here are a couple pictures from the first cruise.





total cost so far:
Car $50
3'x5/8" oil grade hose $15
Napa 75 month battery warrantied $50
Mann air, fuel, and oil filters $30
Rubber exhaust hangers $8
Rear brake caliper rebuild kits, pads,
and machined rotors $35
Master cylinder donated from parts car $0
8 qts 15w40 donated $0

Total cost $188.00 :D

I still need to replace radiator hoses and thermostat, but that's only going to set me back about $50

So what do you think?
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I think you're having waaay too much fun :D

Congrats! :thumbsup:
You know, I've been working on my own cars for 7 years, and been an apprentice mechanic for almost 3 years, but never have I experienced anything like owning an old Mercedes. There's just something about them that makes you want to fix them up and treat them right, no matter how beat up they are, or how much they break and piss you off.

Everybody makes fun of me and talks a lot of shit about my old cars, but they just don't understand.
 

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1984 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 TURBO DIESEL, 1978 CHEVROLET K20 CUSTOM DELUXE
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365 Posts
I would like to buy that triangle and the mounting hardware from that euro 280 . let me know if it is for sale and how much.
 

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1989 300E
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702 Posts
I second the hardware question. I am not sure what mounting hardware Joe is referring to...hopefully not the bumper hardware?

Say Tom, how about that bumper hardware?

Also, in my opinion you're beating just about everyone else in the price game. Good finds dude!
 

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Registered
1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I second the hardware question. I am not sure what mounting hardware Joe is referring to...hopefully not the bumper hardware?

Say Tom, how about that bumper hardware?

Also, in my opinion you're beating just about everyone else in the price game. Good finds dude!
well at the moment I'm hoping to repair the 280, so as of now everything stays...

I'm still fighting the trans on the 300, I know I have vacuum issues, but the bowden cable is also out of adjustment. I just got my mityvac in so hopefully this weekend I can start sorting that out.

Also, for some reason the engine doesn't accelerate until the pedal is almost to the floor. I have checked the bushing at the firewall and adjusted the linking to some degree, however it still isn't quite right. the levers on the IP even seem to be traveling to full stop, so I'm not sure what's going on.
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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16,161 Posts
well at the moment I'm hoping to repair the 280, so as of now everything stays...

I'm still fighting the trans on the 300, I know I have vacuum issues, but the bowden cable is also out of adjustment. I just got my mityvac in so hopefully this weekend I can start sorting that out.

Also, for some reason the engine doesn't accelerate until the pedal is almost to the floor. I have checked the bushing at the firewall and adjusted the linking to some degree, however it still isn't quite right. the levers on the IP even seem to be traveling to full stop, so I'm not sure what's going on.
Did you check the 10mm nut on the linkage? I'm assuming this is a turbo 300D. On this model, the 10mm nut/bolt can be adjusted incorrectly, giving the same symptoms you describe - acceleration will not occur until the pedal is close to the floor.

What I do, is to loosen the said 10mm fastener, pull on the bracketed portion of the linkage, to "accelerate" position, then tighten the fastener. This will place the fastener in a position to push the linkage further and provide the necessary throttle input.
 

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1977 300D, 1984 300D.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I had checked that when I first got the car, but I wasn't exactly sure which way to go, so I might have made it worse. I will recheck it this morning. Thank you.
 

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1985 300D Gone 1985 230CE Perfect, 1984 300TD Driver, 1981 300TD Bad engine
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1,418 Posts
Before you give up on the one with the knock, make sure that it is not the air filter housing rattling around. The rubber mounts fail often. I almost didn't buy my car because I thought it was a bad engine. I've found tools that rolled into the filter housing through the air inlet tube causing the same noise.
 
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