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1) For my 03 I used the CanBus wiring harness (the one with the box attached to it). My radio had the standard euro connector in back, plus one of those (cam, lever to release plugs). To get the canbus working, the kit includes a plug that connects to this cam-lever harness. It has 2 pairs of wires coming off it, a white set and a green set. I assumed the green was correct, but the white ones are actually the ones you need. These then connect to the green B0 plug on the head unit wiring harness.

2) I also did confirm that the stock NAV antenna does not work with this unit, you will need to use the included GPS antenna.

3)I did get an airbag warning, which likely is just coincidental. Haven't had time to diagnose.

4) Still need to connect the illum wire (assuming I need it)
Hi,

Thanks for your detailed Install write up's, I know there will be other forum members who will be very grateful for these, some very soon :grin

If you can stick to the 2 threads you have running now, I will link them in our Encyclopaedia to "immortalise" them :thumbsup: EDIT:- Now Done !

1) Yep, that is the correct way to connect to CAN Bus, although my earlier Model Year Car used the Greens ;) Can you confirm, was yours the same Plug as mine ............... The plug with Grey Cam Lever ??

2) What was the reason Nav didn't work ?? Was it just that the "Coax plug" is not SMA so doesn't fit H/U, or did you actually physically connect it and it didn't work ?? It was my intention to fit a new SMA male plug on mine when I get some more time to do it, but mine is working OK right now with the supplied Antenna just stuck on the top of the H/U :wink
See reply 4) below if you did physically connect, maybe your Antenna Amp is not waking ?? Poor Radio Reception would confirm ??

3) Check you haven't pulled a wire from Airbag Module, (behind H/U & HVAC Panel low down on Tunnell), even if it's plugged in now will probably require SDS Read & Reset once an SRS Code has flagged ;)

4) You don't need to connect Illum Wire, or any other of these wires, as CAN Bus does all that, connecting them creates conflicts and then stuff doesn't work correctly ........................

With possible / maybe the exception of your H/U / Antenna Amp wake up, because your Car had F/O Amp, mine did not, and so my "wake up wire" was on the Old COMAND H/U's Multiplug (Blue / Black) and connected to the Erisin's Power / Earth Plugs Blue wire on the new H/U Plug :wink

Just a final note for others doing the Install, you do not need to connect "Acc" wire to Cig Lighter (or anywhere else as some guys claim), once again it is the CAN Bus that wakes up the H/U ;)

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #22
1) Yes, black with grey cam lever. I'll get a pic later to show the wiring connections in more detail.
2) The nav plug fits, but I tested using the included GPS signal app and could not receive any satellites. When I connected the included antenna they all came up.
3) That's what I'm assuming I did, bumped a wire.
4) I figured that might be the case, I'll verify all function before buttoning the system up.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Finally go the JL Audio amp and was able to connect the subwoofer yesterday. As with the w203, the factory sub in the w220 performs a lot better with the JL amp than it did stock. Overall sound quality is good, definitely better than the stock head unit and amp. I'll post more details and pics as I finish up the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
How many Watts are you pushing through the Sub?? RMS or MPO ??
I'm using this amp:
XD600/6 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

Claims 100w @2ohms

It's a digital switching amp, so it's very small, just a hair larger than the factory CD changer. It's about 3mm too wide to fit in the CD changer location without modification, so I will probably hack that mount so that I can have the amp bolted securely to a factory part w/o putting any screws into the body sheetmetal.

FYI, I found the amp as a refurb for $350.
 

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Hi,

That's a cool amp.

I'm happy with the Sound in mine, so I was thinking just use 100W on my Sub, say a bridged 2 X 50w run from my H/U's Sub Line Out, just for better Sub control ;)

I'll mount that in the old CD Carrier Bracket too ;) Makes sense really, wake up wire is already there, plus it will probably run fine with the now redundant +ve and -ve Power Supply that is already in Left Rear Corner too :wink

I haven't had the time to run the p/n of my Sub Speaker against the Bose one, but even if my Sub blows up it won't be a pain because there are more BOSE Cars being broke up in UK, than non Bose, so I would just swap it for a BOSE one, in fact I think I've got one somewhere in the Workshop Loft :grin

I won't be running it that loud so I doubt I'll have a problem anyway, this is simply a "plan B" Just in case :laugh

Cheers Dave
 

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Was thinking about an Erisin Android unit. Then I started doing my due-diligence Googling, and I found these pages.

https://www.trustpilot.com/review/erisin.com
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/erisin-es6405-xtrons-pb86mtvap-t3562511
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1773616

Now I'm getting a little concerned about Erisin. Because Xtrons units look very similar, I'm assuming they're made in the same Chinese factory. Is this really a good way to go, I'm now wondering, given the post-purchase reports?
 

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Hi T,

I read a load of those reports way back when I got mine.

I also read a lot of guys personal install threads and came to the conclusion that a lot of the folk installing them really shouldn't be wiring anything to their cars ;)

After reading the successful posts on here and speaking to @renault12ts I ordered mine. I believe his has been in a long time now and still good.

Mine has not been in the Car long, but is still working perfectly right now, so I'm a happy bunny.

I think for the few hundred horror stories there is probably thousands of satisfied customers out there ;)

:dunno: Time will tell ;)

Cheers Dave
 

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It appears to be a sad fact that many of the posts reporting problems are from folks who have not yet learned enough about the subject to give good information about what is really happening.

One of my favorite quotes from a very dear friend - "Not being hampered by facts, I can discuss the subject freely". Unfortunately, some folks never realize that they aren't hampered by facts.
 

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I've been doing a lot of reading on Android headunits as well, as I am in the planning stage for my S55.

Having consulted the forums that I believe to be best informed, r/carav and DIY Mobile Audio, these units do experience problems more often than a headunits from places brands like Pioneer or Kenwood. Of course, this should come as no surprise because your buying something that costs substantially less and comes from China, where poor quality control is the norm.

My biggest problem I've found with these units is audio quality. For the average person it is most likely perfectly acceptable, but I'm going for a higher end SQ setup. The internal DAC in these Android units is pretty dismal and shouldn't be relied on for exemplary quality. With this in mind, my setup will still include a Chinese Android unit, but I will be bypassing it for pretty much all audio. This way I get the features like Google Maps, backup camera, dashcam, and torque. For audio, I'll be using my phone as the source, connected via Bluetooth receiver with AptX and a digital out into a miniDSP C-DSP. This keeps the signal fully digital all the way to the processor and never gets tainted by poor electronics.

So long as you purchase directly from the brand's site or Amazon where you have a known return policy or warranty process, you'll mostly be ok. Knowing that they have higher than average failure rates also means you're better off if you can install and work on a stereo on your own. Otherwise you could end up spending more than you should having an installer put it in and take out if issues come up.
 

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That's what I'm concerned about. They look good. They're the closest to the OEM look that we'll get, while getting modern features.

I'll probably take a chance on it, given Dave's info. I'll also be ready to issue a charge-back if the thing goes Tango-Uniform during the warranty period. And if it does, then I'll go with Kenwood or Pioneer.
 

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Hi,

Hubbard,

Very good post, you certainly appear to have done your homework.

Personally, as an in car system, which is streets in front of the old clunker 2,5 COMAND that it replaced, I cannot fault the ERISIN for sound quality via the NON BOSE Speaker system in my Car. XTrons and others I've seen use a different mother board.

Note that I bought my ERISIN over a year ago, and have only recently fitted it, so the newest ones may all use same board :dunno:.

I do a lot of part time DJ'ing, and have a Class A System in the house. Class A / PA / Concert Hall it isn't but IMHO it is certainly much better than the COMAND 2.5 that it replaced.

My take on this is guys who say it is poor quality are most likely using a Chinese F/O adaptor, which incidentally is then only using 2 Channels rather than 4, so no Fader and you're running the H/U in the very high Volume Bracket which will distort !!
Failing that, some have simply by passed the Bose Amp, and using a Wiring Harness that plugs into the BOSE Speakers, which it is well documented that they are an odd Ohms Rating !

The posts that I have studied on Benzworld, and I'm satisfied it is wired up correctly have all said it sounds better than their COMAND.

Other posts elsewhere on the Internet have CAN Bus connected probably wrongly, plus all the wires that you don't connect, like Acc +, Reverse Lead, Illum Lead, S/wheel buttons etc etc. Then they moan it doesn't work right !!

:dunno:

Terrell,

Yes absolutely use Credit Card with Charge Back option, I did !!

Yeah, I agree with Hubbard, Chinesium QC is an issue here, but so is all the numpties that are connecting them up wrong, then screaming on the Internet.

Also they mess around with Menus and set stuff on that shouldn't be etc etc. This is of course is partly down to the lack of decent Instructions !!

Chinglish "Bin Fodder" is all you get for instructions :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Also, check Amazon and eBay before buying. I found one is often cheaper than the other on the same head unit (it varies). And both are usually cheaper than direct purchase.
 

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Getting a little concerned about Erisin's validity as a company. Here's why.

I am my own email provider, i. e. I have my own email server, DNS, all that. Therefore, I also have an anti-spam gateway.

Reached out to Erisin for some info on compatible accessories. On the evening of July 17, I got a reply from this IP address, as shown by my greylister.

Jul 17 22:55:19 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 183.60.61.236: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 17 22:57:53 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 183.60.61.236: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 17 23:01:27 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 183.60.61.236: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 17 23:07:01 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 183.60.61.236: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 17 23:16:34 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 183.60.61.236: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>

So far, so good. It's a Chinese IP address, from Chinanet Telecom, and they were following the RFC's by keeping the source IP address. This is right and proper. They said to read their Web page documentation about the unit (i. e. the ad), all my questions should be answered, and if I've got any further questions, I can ask.

I indicated that I had indeed read through it fully and that I had some specific questions before purchase.

Well, here's the array of IP addresses that their response is now coming from, as of right now, according to my greylister.

Jul 19 21:28:57 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.206.34.216: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:29:57 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.206.16.166: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:30:53 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 184.105.67.100: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:31:54 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.204.34.129: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:32:56 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.243.244.52: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:33:55 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 103.7.28.233: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:34:59 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.254.200.92: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:35:54 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 184.105.67.100: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:36:59 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 54.179.177.220: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>


Note how it's nowhere near consistent now. All the 54.x.x.x addresses belong to Merck & Co. Yes, the pharmaceutical company. Why are they now using Merck's IP address range?

Let's keep going. The 184.105.67.100 address is from Hurricane Electric, an ISP in California. The 103.7.28.233 address is from some provider in China called Tencent.

Now, they just started sending consistently from this IP address.

Jul 19 21:37:57 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 14.17.44.35: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:40:30 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 14.17.44.35: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:44:02 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 14.17.44.35: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>
Jul 19 21:49:34 spamslayer spamd[28187]: (GREY) 14.17.44.35: <[email protected]> -> <[email protected]>

OK, now they've switched to 14.17.44.35, and they're using *that* one consistently...for now. Where's this one from? OK, that's from Chinanet Telecom.

So, they've bounced from Chinanet Telecom, to Merck & Co. Pharmaceuticals, to Hurricane Electric, to Tencent, and finally back to Chinanet Telecom? What the hell kind of company does that? No legitimate one that I've ever heard of. Even when Gmail, Hotmail, and Yahoo Mail hop between IP addresses, yes, they're breaking the RFC's, but at least they're within their own range of IP addresses!

What the hell's up with Erisin that they're pulling this kind of stunt? My cybersecurity engineer bells are seriously going off about them now.
 

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And the response came in. It's from someone calling (I think) herself, "Summer". Her (?) tone is short, almost a bit rude, as if (s)he resents answering questions. Maybe it's a language barrier. Maybe they're just rude. They're basically telling me to go RTFM. Sadly, their "M" isn't as informative as it should be, which is why I'm asking them things before purchase. Geez....

I have a few more specific questions for them about the accessories.

The first is about the Digital TV box. The DTV box that they said is compatible, the ES338-L, has a problem. It doesn't list ATSC as one of the reception standards that it supports. That's a problem when you're in North America, so if they don't answer clearly, then I'll just forego the digital TV box and keep that money in my pocket. If, on the other hand, they actually recommend an ATSC-speaking box, then I'll go with that.

The second is about their LMBENZ-6m fibre-optic adaptor cable. They say the following:

"If your car has a fiber-optic amplifier/sound system such as Harman-Kardon or Bose, just buy this Extension Power& Radio Cable to install, then this unit will work with your car speaker directly, factory optic fiber WON’T work again."

Does that mean that this adaptor cable plugs into the factory Bose amplifier? And if so, does that mean that they support the D2B protocol that the Bose amplifier requires?

We shall see if, and how, they respond....
 

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Installed similar unit like that in wifes 02 ML320 . I took it to a shop and they had to gut all the FO units . Was all daisy chained together. Sold HU and Amp and Sub on Ebay . GPS still in the back but not connected . Unit works great . Installer charged me a $100 . Well worth that.



Smokie
 

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Hey Smokie,

Good to see you, hope all is well with ya, not seen you in a while ;)
@cowboyt ,

Avoid that seller like the plague !!

The lead they are asking you to buy is for D2B Cars, because you cannot re use the D2B F/O Amplifier, the D2B F/O uses different Protocol to MOST F/O therefore the F/O Converters don't work.

Trick is a choice of 2 ;) ........................

Remove BOSE Amp and CD Player completely.

The BOSE Cars Speakers are connected at the Amp in Trunk.

Now, you can either buy an aftermarket 6 Channel Amp, (which will work with 2 - 4 Ohm Speakers), and then use Phono Cables from H/U to Trunk New Amp, or don't buy an Amp and buy that Harness to run Speaker Wiring from ERISIN Head Unit to the Speaker Plug in the Trunk, thus using the ERISIN's Built In 4 X 50W !!

If you don't like knocking the windows out Volume then the H/U should be fine without Amplifier, mine is.

You may find with their Speaker Harness that the Sub and Front Centre Speakers stop working, it is easy to wire them again at your Trunk end connection, look at WIS Diagram for non BOSE Car and it shows you, the Front Centre and Rear Sub connect to one left and one right of Front and Rear respectively. I cannot remember + and - 'ses which is why I said look at WIS ;)

Didn't need to do all that on mine, as my Car was non BOSE !!

Now I did not buy mine from Chinkychonks !!

I found a UK Seller on EBay, price good enough, ok probably just a few £'s more that ALI Thieving no good [email protected]*rds BABA but I had no messing, unit here within a week ;)

Is there someone like that in USA ??

Yeah I know they are probably Chinese Sellers, but they are at least stocked in USA and you will hopefully not have the silly comms barrier either.

Don't expect any purveyor of Chinesium to have a clue what they are selling or how to install !! They sell boxes with "ahhhhhhh soooooooo" stuff in !!

Install help, that's what myself and others here are for.

If you can't find one in USA, ask Brian @ricebubbles , where he got his, but don't expect comms, just purchase what you need ;) Or I can put you in touch with the Audio Guy in UK ;)

HTH,

Cheers Dave

PS, on recommendation, and seeing how they are accepting PayPal now, I have just this week used ALI Thieveba and purchased C4 Mux and Leads to go with the new unlocked fully functional SDS HDD I bought from a guy through this forum ;)

The comms were sort of OK, but a load of faffing around, still not dispatched, EMail from "Rita Yu" VK Diagnostics this morning demanding another $40 because their couriers want to surcharge to my remote area !!

I'm too busy to mess around, so I paid it :angry:

The UK sellers are all double the price and are buying from the same place, so as long as I get it and it works ok that's that !!
Probably never buy off ALI again though, unless like this time I really had no choice except pay double !!
 

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Believe it or not, that seller is Erisin itself, from www.erisin.com! Yep.

The eBay sellers in the USA all look like they're stocking in China and shipping from there. I might be wrong, but that's what it looks like. Furthermore, their Android 8.0 units either are the 8" knob-less type, or they have 2GB RAM. Xtrons doesn't even appear to have a 7" knob-equipped Android 8.0 unit at all, so that's out. The latest that has knobs and buttons, from any vendor, apparently has 4GB RAM, so that'd be first choice. Yes, being a long-time IT guy, I like to always have the biggest RAM possible. :devil

So, I went on Ali Express and had a look. I got my SDS from ShenZhen, and that kit has worked quite well over the last 2 years or so. So, I might trust ShenZhen again with an Android unit purchase. Their Web page, while definitely "Engrish", is considerably more descriptive than Erisin's. Turns out, yep, a bunch of sellers are selling the same "brand" of head unit. In the case of the Android 8.0 units, the brand is "Hifit". I'm guessing that's a double-pun on both "hi-fi" and "good fit". :) The Android 7.1 units go by a different brand name; I forget what it is, but it starts with the letter "M". Probably the exact same Chinese factory pumping both types out.

I wouldn't mind at all using the built-in amp from the Android unit, as long as the fidelity's good. Dave, like you, I am musically inclined; my Dad was a professional piano player, and I am a semi-pro drummer. I was just wondering why there was even a fibre-optic connector on Erisin's cable if we're going straight from the built-in amp to the speakers. That should be all copper. Indeed, on the various AliExpress vendors's pages, including ShenZhen's, their pics don't include fiber-optic connectors on that speaker cable adaptor. That makes a lot more sense. That said, I'll be running some cabling for two amps, just in case; there'll one pair for the "regular" speakers, and another for the woofer (the so-called "sub"). Yes, I know what an actual subwoofer really is; what's in our cars is properly called a woofer. :)

Also doing some research into how to update the head unit, going forward. Seems these vendors don't offer that themselves, but *someone* is loading Android on there, so it's clearly possible. Just gotta figure out how.
 

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Hi T,

7 & 8 inch Knobs and a Big Ram ?????????? :devil

Lol I'm in a hurry right now, but I found a Website that were updating and fiddling with these Android O/S, different Screens, Menus etc etc google around and if you can't find it give me a prod and I'll see if I've got it somewhere ;)

It was way beyond me, but will be right up your street being an IT man ;)

Cheers for now,

Dave
 
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