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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so since I have decided that an electric winch is my answer to unsticking, I think a bigger alternator might be a good idea (to recharge the batteries faster).

It seems the unimog alternator is a fairly standard Bosch job. Can it be upgraded by a shop? Anyone running a different unit as an upgrade?

I am thinking a 80-90 amp unit (24V) would be good. Also, since I already tax the 55 amp unit (electric rad fans, heatedwindscreen, and hotrodded heater blower), this upgrade is probably overdue.

As always, thanks for the ideas/input.

C.
 

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404.1 ragtop Doka
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I guess it depends just where "The Greater New Albany Metroplex" is... ;-)

I had a lengthy discussion about going to an alternator on my 404 last week with the local auto electric shop owner while his helper was rebuilding my heater blower motor.

He says both Bosch and Delco are very good alternators and are wired the same...
But he also said:
Bosh parts are more difficult to find and quite expensive.
Delco parts are plentiful and much less expensive.

It appears a Bosh often gets replaced with a new Delco rather than being repaired due to cost.

He also cautioned me on getting a lot more than I need because of the belt loads and the need for dual or triple belts like the sailboats use for the real high amp ones...

Availability is crucial to me because of where I live and the back areas I travel in, and cost always counts.

Your situation may be much different, I am glad I checked with a local shop
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The greater new albany metroplex is centered at 38° 17' 59.2631N -85° 51' 29.7378W (my house).

I will go to the alt shop tomorrow. good idea!

C.
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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I have a Dayco in my 406. This morning I spotted this beast and if bigger is better how about a Fairbanks Morse 6 1/2 Hp 450 RPM no amperage required. I see a hand crank and two big drums as well as a capstan. What produced the 6.5 HP???
 

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U1600AG + a LR 90
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995 Posts
Provided the impulse stays the same it would be ok, if going to another make of alternator then you would have to make sure that the impulse over its rpm range is the same and that it has the same diameter pulley on it.

Other than that why not just put a second alternator on it using what would be the hydraulic pump mount or the aircon compressor would go.
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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So, in theory, I fancy running a second alternator from the PTO. In reality, what would the real world implications/problems be?
ie One running alternator while one isn't turning?
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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Off hand, I can't think of any implications, as long as both alternators are outputting the same DC voltage (separate regulators). You MAY want to consider a disconnect, though I haven't thought that through, either. You'll need to 'gear' it up with a pulley system for the same reason as the point I make below. Most units will put out low amperage at PTO speeds.

Any upgrade alternator will need to have the same number of stator poles as the original if you are running a electronic tachometer. Otherwise, it will not read right. I have asked numerous times over the past 5 years if anyone knew how many poles the OEM Bosch units had - I don't think I ever got an answer.

One of the problems with a low speed diesel engine is that MOST alternators don't start cranking out the amps until they're moving along pretty fast. There are units that "come in" faster, but they are not common.

The fact you also need a 24V unit will really limit the available options...
 

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1978 416.115
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If your current system is peaked out, I'd do what someone else said and install a 2nd 12V alternator, deep cycle battery and a 12V winch. There are tons of 12V winches compared to 24V unless you already have a 24V winch.

If you don't have a hydraulic pump or AC unit under the hood, I'm sure there's plenty of room to squeeze in another alternator.

That way you can have a 12V system (radio, gps, winch, cell phone charger, etc.) and also a 24V system.
 

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U1550L/37 Doka, U1700L/38, Merc 1017A
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Off hand, I can't think of any implications, as long as both alternators are outputting the same DC voltage (separate regulators). You MAY want to consider a disconnect, though I haven't thought that through, either. You'll need to 'gear' it up with a pulley system for the same reason as the point I make below. Most units will put out low amperage at PTO speeds.

Any upgrade alternator will need to have the same number of stator poles as the original if you are running a electronic tachometer. Otherwise, it will not read right. I have asked numerous times over the past 5 years if anyone knew how many poles the OEM Bosch units had - I don't think I ever got an answer.

One of the problems with a low speed diesel engine is that MOST alternators don't start cranking out the amps until they're moving along pretty fast. There are units that "come in" faster, but they are not common.

The fact you also need a 24V unit will really limit the available options...

the oem bosch unit has three poles. i upgraded my 406 unit with an ac/delco model and ran a wire out from one of the poles for future tach addition but never did instal the tach.

on another note, if you do use an ac/delco unit, the bigger pulley from the bosch unit fits it.


i think a healthy 24 volt 55 amp system is very capable already.
 

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U1600AG + a LR 90
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995 Posts
If your current system is peaked out, I'd do what someone else said and install a 2nd 12V alternator, deep cycle battery and a 12V winch. There are tons of 12V winches compared to 24V unless you already have a 24V winch.

If you don't have a hydraulic pump or AC unit under the hood, I'm sure there's plenty of room to squeeze in another alternator.

That way you can have a 12V system (radio, gps, winch, cell phone charger, etc.) and also a 24V system.

if you were going to go for a winch then 24v is the way to go because they use less amps (half the amount as they use twice the voltage)

e.g. a 24v 55A alternator equates to a 12v 110A alternator

i.e.
a 12v 60w bulb is 5.00A
a 24v 70w bulb is 2.916A

therefore buying 2 batteries specifically for the 24v winch and adding a second alternator mainly for charging them will give you a longer winching time and will mean the charge level in them will never run down your main batteries for starting, also it will mean you have a backup charging system should your main one ever fail and also a jump starting method from the two sets of 2 batteries, and by adding the correct relays or split chargers the alternators have the capability to charge both sets of battery wile still protecting the starting set from discharge.

you can pull 12v off a 24v system ;)

 

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ex-moglet u1700 (ex U1300L)
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you can pull 12v off a 24v system ;)

As long as you rotate them a few times a year to equal out the fact they'll be working differently. I didn't know that and had to prematurely replace both my starters when I discovered the one feeding 12v to the cab wouldn't hold a charge anymore :(

I now have 24v to 12v droppers feeding the cab stereo, sockets etc so the batteries only ever work as a 24v matched pair.

Jason

:)
 

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U1600AG + a LR 90
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As long as you rotate them a few times a year to equal out the fact they'll be working differently. I didn't know that and had to prematurely replace both my starters when I discovered the one feeding 12v to the cab wouldn't hold a charge anymore :(

I now have 24v to 12v droppers feeding the cab stereo, sockets etc so the batteries only ever work as a 24v matched pair.

Jason

:)
yes you should rotate them, but that is true anyway though much more so if you pull 12v off one of them, but just pulling 12v for a basic radio your not exactly talking about a big regular load.

I too use a 24v to 12v droppers , but as more and more stuff like sat-nav or other USB (5v) based equipment comes with 12-24v input voltage for lighter sockets (check first!!!!) there is less need now, though I do have both 12v & 24v lighter sockets and the radio is also via the same dropper.
 
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