All problems listed for the past 7 years of ownership

9013 Views 49 Replies 13 Participants Last post by lcmlee, Nov 10, 2012

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · Jul 14, 2003

I've owned my W140 since 1996 when she was just 2 years old.

I thought it would be useful to list all the problems I've EVER had with her for the duration of my ownership. If anyone wants specific details on a repair, just ask via a posting. [

]

Hope you guys find this useful

Format as follows Problem â€“ Resolution â€“ Who fixed the fault

Rear Headrests not reclining - New switch - DIY
Failed Lumbar Support - Vacuum leak by ZF pump - DIY
Air Con failure - Leak at intake pipe - new intake pipe - Shop
Sunroof Sticking - ongoing - TBA
Rear passenger window sticking - ongoing - TBA
Front door locks sticking - rebuilt front locks twice with new rollers - Removal/fit DIY rebuild Shop
Rear boot lid lock failing - Cleanout and lubricate - DIY
Mirrors not folding - New Switch - Dealer
Rear Centre vents position handles broken - ongoing - TBA
Gear selector light failure - New bulb - DIY
Dashboard lights (fuel gauge/ mileage recorder) - New bulbs - DIY
Dash lights on headlamp on/off cluster - New bulb - DIY
Central lock failure - New ZF Pump - DIY
Water leak - New Water Pump - Shop
Transmission flaring between gears - Transmission Overhaul - Shop
Rear Brake Caliper grinding - New rear caliper + New rear discs (rotors) - DIY
Oil leak at front of Engine - Front gasket of M104 engine - Shop
Squeaking engine drive belt - New belt + tension set - Shop
Drive shaft linkage worn - New linkage fitted - Shop
Ventilation blower motor failure - New motor fitted - Dealer
Ventilation blower squeaking at low speed - ongoing - TBA
Rear speaker buzzing - New rear speakers - DIY
electric aerial stuck down - New aerial - DIY
ABS light on following battery install - Reset ABS light - Dealer
Worn (perished sheathing) ignition leads - New engine wiring harness - Shop
ABS light on following perished ignition leads - Reset ABS light - Shop
Headlamp wiper failure on right lamp - ongoing - TBA
Breakup in lamination on rear glass - ongoing - TBA
Rear screen elements partially working - ongoing -TBA
Centre console roller jammed - forced back into tracks - DIY
Loose Bonnet Star Emblem - New Emblem fitted - DIY
Jump Wiper arm not jumping at screen corners - ongoing - TBA
Pulling to the left - Retracking - shop
Snapped drivers door check-strap (door jam) - New check strap fitted - Dealer

If any more spring to mind I'll update the list

LEGAL STUFF
I'll glady help anyone with problems. I'll describe the repair as I carried it out. All repairs are at your own risk and down to your own competency.

See less See more

21 - 40 of 50 Posts

drk. grn. 400se

· #21 · Jul 24, 2003

transmission flaring between gears

W140Gill, first let me say thanks for your post I just replaced numerous burned out lights because of your post. But my transmission is acting really weird lately.
When I begin underway it revs to 4500 rpm before the gear will change. Then if i give it gas at the wrong time it will rev really high! The gears just aren't changing right. Is this the transmission flaring you spoke of? How much did it cost to fix?
Thanks,
drk. grn.

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #22 · Jul 25, 2003

Yes you can follow the same instructions for the back door. In addition to the above, yo...

Yes you can follow the same instructions for the back door. In addition to the above, you must remove the rear door ashtray and retaining screw behind it.
[

]

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #23 · Jul 25, 2003

Re: transmission flaring between gears

W140Gill, first let me say thanks for your post I just replaced numerous burned out lights because of your post. But my transmission is acting really weird lately.
When I begin underway it revs to 4500 rpm before the gear will change. Then if i give it gas at the wrong time it will rev really high! The gears just aren't changing right. Is this the transmission flaring you spoke of? How much did it cost to fix?
Thanks,
drk. grn.

Yes, I am afraid so. How many mile has your tranny done? Mine did 140k miles before I went for a rebuild. Auto transmissions are very complicated machines and beyond the scope of many DIY'ers like myself. I suggest you take it to several specialists before making a decision. You will by surprised at how many different answers and prices you get.

Start with a transmission service and have the vacuum pressures reset by a specialist. See if this sorts out the problem. If It doesnt looks like the transmission will have to be taken apart for a rebuild. Dont bother with a 2nd hand reconditioned unit. This is likely to be someone elses headache which has been patched together. If you do decide to go with a rebuild then make sure you have the torque convertor and bearings changed at the same time.
I had this all done to my car at a cost of Â£800 ($1200) This is exceptionally cheap even for the UK. I would expect to pay close to double this. Remember - dont let anyone rip you off just because you drive a S class. A brand new factory tranny fitted by the Benz dealer costs Â£3200 ($4800)

See less See more

bazzis

· #24 · Jul 25, 2003

Re: Yes you can follow the same instructions for the back door. In addition to the above, yo

Yes you can follow the same instructions for the back door. In addition to the above, you must remove the rear door ashtray and retaining screw behind it.
[]

the rear doors don't have opening pockets,just an arm rest, do these have to be removed,if so how??many thanks.

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #25 · Jul 25, 2003

Re: Re: Yes you can follow the same instructions for the back door. In addition to the above,

the rear doors don't have opening pockets,just an arm rest, do these have to be removed,if so how??many thanks.

Not sure about yours then. On my car I have opening armrests with door bins. Try my instructions and see if the card comes away. If it still doesnt come away, then investigate whether your door armrests can be removed.

They cant be that different. [xx(]
Good luck and let me know how it goes.[

]

drk. grn. 400se

· #26 · Jul 25, 2003

transmission flaring

Ok w140Gill, I will be cautious. One question was your car driveable, or did it completely break down? Mine drives now and I was just wondering. If yours drove how long did you wait before taking it in to get fixed?

Thanks,
drk. grn. 400se

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #27 · Jul 26, 2003

Re: transmission flaring

Ok w140Gill, I will be cautious. One question was your car driveable, or did it completely break down? Mine drives now and I was just wondering. If yours drove how long did you wait before taking it in to get fixed?

Thanks,
drk. grn. 400se

I am guilty of having driven mine for well over a year like this due to a dispute with an insurance company. The tranny got progressively worse as time went on. During this time I covered 20k miles. The transmission eventually got so bad that the car would not go into the top gear all the time.

Get it done as soon as you have some spare $$$.
[

]

drk. grn. 400se

· #28 · Jul 26, 2003

I will do it as soon as possible

Thanks w140Gill, I get it looked and fixed as soon as my pocket allows. I just wanted to make sure driving it like this for a couple wouldn't destroy the drive shaft or something.
drk. grn. 400se

bazzis

· #29 · Jul 26, 2003

600sel rear door trims

You were quite right! all you have to do is remove the wood trim panel that holds the seat switches, that gives access to the 10mm bolts that hold the door handle, rest is simple. unfortunately my problem is a shot window regulator....the plastic slide seems to have broken up,I'm told it means a new assembly, ho hum.....many thanks

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #30 · Jul 28, 2003

Re: 600sel rear door trims

You were quite right! all you have to do is remove the wood trim panel that holds the seat switches, that gives access to the 10mm bolts that hold the door handle, rest is simple. unfortunately my problem is a shot window regulator....the plastic slide seems to have broken up,I'm told it means a new assembly, ho hum.....many thanks

happy to help[

][

][

]

drk. grn. 400se

· #31 · Aug 18, 2003

ac/ heating controls illumination

w140 Gill, have you changed the bulbs in your ac/ heating ever?

I have a blown one on the drivers side of my control unit. If you have any instructions could you share them with me please.

Thanks in advance,

drk. grn. 400se

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #32 · Aug 19, 2003

Re: ac/ heating controls illumination

w140 Gill, have you changed the bulbs in your ac/ heating ever?

I have a blown one on the drivers side of my control unit. If you have any instructions could you share them with me please.

Thanks in advance,

drk. grn. 400se

I'm sorry, I havent had to change these yet. I will post if I ever come across it though.

Maybe someone out there has done these before?

ychachad

· #33 · Aug 22, 2003

Re: Gear selector light replacement instructions for ychachad

UPDATE. May I WGill? Thanks.
The driver is a T20 Torx bit, and I used a 90 degree swivel head screw driver for that. Worked very well. I purchased the thing at the local Sears store.

The gear selector bulb is a little more complex.
You will need the following tools:
(1) A selection (because I cant remember the size) of torx screwdriver bits (I think its either T10,T15 or T20)
(2) A 1/4" mini ratchet bit
(3) A 'L' bend Allen key that fits into the 1/4" ratchet on the side that would normally fit the ratchet handle.
(4) A small phillips (crosshead) screwdriver bit.
(5) flat tip screwdriver

Open the ash tray and remove the inner with the release catch.
Look into the opening and you will see a small phillips screw holding on the wood panel on the cover of the ashtray. Insert the phillips bit into the 1/4" bit and use the allen key in the other end to 'frig' yourself a custom tool to get into the hole.
Undo the screw and the ashtray comes away. Keep the compression washer thats under the screw safe.
Feel in the opening where the ashtray resided for 2 torx headed bolts. There is one either side. These hold the wood around the gear and window switches in place.
Undo these bolts using your 'frigged' tool fitted with the right size torx bit.
Remove the surrounding plastic from the gear selector panel. This comes out upward. Use a flat screwdriver if necessary - mind the wood!.
The Wood panel is now loose from the gear selector. Lift upward starting from the ashtray end and carefully unclip the wiring from all the switches.
The Gear selector mechanism is now exposed. The bulb is the same variety as the dashboard, twist in type. It resides either on the side or under the top panel where the numbering is. Carefully unclip the top panel and replace the bulb.

As before refit is reverse of removal.

ychachad

· #34 · Aug 22, 2003

Re: Dash cluster bulb replacement instructions for ychachad

There are 2 bulbs that are required here. I needed 4 small ones and 3 large ones. I can't believe that so many were burned out in my cluster. Anyway, I made the cluster removal tool myself from the photo Wgill had provided, but welding a 1/4" x 0.05" thick metal strip (hook) to a 3/8" round rod (Handle) to pull out the cluster. I tried several locations and found that the bottom of the cluster worked best. The MB dealer screwed me for $4.50 for each of the small bulbs, and $7.50 for each of the large bulbs. That's why I didn't replace all the bulbs. But soon, one more large bulb burnt out. Cluster removal was a snap this time. But I refused to pay more $$$ to the dealer. So I went and purchased similarly sized Sylvania bulbs for $1.00 each, Made in Germany, same as the MB OEM quality which is made by Osram/Sylvania. I checked the fitment and the wattage, and found that the W3W type bulb is best at 2.5 watts, versus the 2.0 for the OEM. No problems, no burnouts. AT That price, I replaced all the large bulbs. As far as the small bulbs go, they are molded, and not push pull. So you have to break the bulb, and but Sylvania 2781 bulb at $1.00 each. They worked fine as well. This should save us all some $$$, and Thank you WGill for all your help, without you this would not have been possible. The dealer wanted $110 to remove the cluster + charge for bulbs. WHich would have been 200 bucks for me.

The dashboard cluster is held in with compression. There are no screws or clips holding it in place. There are 2 ways to remove the cluster. The 1st method involves you buying some pulling hooks. These can be found on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2423656922&category=10398. Make sure the electric steering column is fully out and down out of the way. Insert the hooks either side the cluster and twist so that they catch the back. Then pull the handles towards you. The cluster pops out and you simply need to disconnect the leads behind the unit. While the unit is out, replace ALL the bulbs. Bulbs have a finite life and theres nothing worse than you putting it back having replaced a single bulb only to have another pop on you soon after. The bulbs are a mixture of 2 types. They simply twist out of the cluster. Dont buy cheap bulbs, you dont want to go back in there to replace them again.

The second method (which i did) is without pulling hooks. Undo the the carpeted panel beneath the dashboard. There are crossheaded screws hidden along the join - make sure you dont miss these out. Next, reach up through the lower part where the carpeted panel was removed and push the cluster forward. There is less risk of damaging anything this way.

NOTE: The cluster comes out top first. As a gap appears at the top between the cluster and the dahboard, dont be afraid to put your hand in and help it out.

Fitting is reverse of removal

See less See more

drk. grn. 400se

· #35 · Aug 23, 2003

Dear Ychachad, thanks for your post I saw that from our buddy Gill. But I was trying to ...

Dear Ychachad, thanks for your post I saw that from our buddy Gill. But I was trying to remove the bulbs from my air and heat controls. The bulb on the drivers portion is out, so I can't see what temperature it's on at night. I changed my gear bulb thanks to Gill, so I know how to remove the ash tray and those parts. I was thinking the top portion of wood must come off in the same fashion exposing the air and heat controls. I also need to replace whatever bulbs light the vent on and off controls If you have any knowledge on these let me know ok.

Thanks.

Drk. Grn. 400se

ychachad

· #36 · Aug 24, 2003

Re: Dear Ychachad, thanks for your post I saw that from our buddy Gill. But I was trying to

Hello, when you remove the ashtray, and the 2 screws attaching the lower panel covering the gear shifter, there are 2 screws to remove the A/C and Stereo wood panel. I replaced my driver side temperature bulb as well at the same time. Quite easy to do. Simply make sure you get the Torx 20 bit, and a 90 degree tiny swivel screw driver or wrench.

Dear Ychachad, thanks for your post I saw that from our buddy Gill. But I was trying to remove the bulbs from my air and heat controls. The bulb on the drivers portion is out, so I can't see what temperature it's on at night. I changed my gear bulb thanks to Gill, so I know how to remove the ash tray and those parts. I was thinking the top portion of wood must come off in the same fashion exposing the air and heat controls. I also need to replace whatever bulbs light the vent on and off controls If you have any knowledge on these let me know ok.

Thanks.

Drk. Grn. 400se

mckenna

· #37 · Sep 9, 2003

vnet wheel lights

Hi w140gill;
i have no lights on the vent wheels on dashboard. can you tell me how to repalce bulbs?
Please rspond to:
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]

drk. grn. 400se

· #38 · Sep 10, 2003

Wiring harness

Hi Gill, as usual I have a question. What were the symptoms when your wiring harness went bad. Lately in my car when I'm driving all the warning lamps will flash as if the car is gonna shut off but I feel no affects to the engine. Is this my harness? I have 153,000 miles on my car.

As usual Thanks for the info Gill

drk. grn. 400se [

]

Skippy

· #39 · Sep 11, 2003

S280 Dash Lights and Auto Trans Flaring

Thanks w140Gill for the detailed explanation for pulling out the dash unit. Unfortunately, my 1995/96 S280 seems very reluctant to let it pop out! I removed the bottom carpet panel and have tried pushing the unit forward, but it appears to be holdig on something in the middle. I must be missing something and am worried that if I try excessive force something expensive is going to break.

Any clues?

I also hade a look at trying to replace the back lights on the central vent wheels. I suspect the only way is to remove the heater control unit below, or go in through the glove box.

I saw from your listing that you had transmission 'flaring'. I think I have the same symptoms, although not so extreme. In 2nd and 3rd, the revs sometimes increase by an extra 500rpm before engaging gear. Happens in drive and when using the gear selector manually. Problem occurs more frequently when in stop/start traffic. Is this the first stage of transmission failure? I have had it serviced and adjusted, but this only had a slight beneficial effect.

Apart from these problems, plus only getting cold air from the rear central vents, the car is a dream to drive. Car was imported from Singapore to New Zealand if that is relevant.

Any help appreciated.

See less See more

W140Gill

Discussion Starter · #40 · Sep 13, 2003

Re: vnet wheel lights

Hi w140gill;
i have no lights on the vent wheels on dashboard. can you tell me how to repalce bulbs?
Please rspond to:
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]

Hi Mckenna,
I've not had to change these yet. I will be taking apart my dashboard over the next few weeks for 'other upgrades'. I will post instructions for this bulb change as soon as I have got some confirmed steps.

Apologies for the delay in replying, I've been away on holiday.
[

]

21 - 40 of 50 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.