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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I bought a 07 s550 in April. I have read almost every post that had anything to do with airmatic and no luck. Park place has kept the car for a couple weeks on several occasions and still can't figure it out after replacing the front drivers strut the front pass. Strut twice,(arnotts) 3 pumps, control module and control valve and two ride height sensors the Damn light still comes on. Star's code is 5285 suspension strut filling too slowly. The workshop manual said to check wiring to pump for chafing it Has been checked by dealer and two other certified techs and they can't find the problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have noticed whenever the malfunction light comes on it is a direct result of the airmatic pump not coming on for whatever reason. About 1 minute after starting if the pump doesn't come on then the malfunction light illuminates. I read about the wake up function when you open the door and park place did replace my drivers door control module at the beginning of this problem (that I had checked afterwards and found out it was still good just needed updating the software). I also asked them about the service bulletin about updating the control module... They said that it was already done
 

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May I suggest a reset to the whole command using STAR, I think the dealer do this. Mine lights from time to time, my light still comes on but from my mechanic everything is shape as far as my suspension so it is the command or some sort of wire issue when the car is parked rarely comes on and when it does sometimes actually something is wrong but while moving it another story especially on bouncy roads it just tricks the computer so it shows the light when it is nothing but tough roads or after a decent crack on the street. try the re-set and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Benz1 I'll give that a try. Is updating the command software the same as resetting it? I'm inclined to agree about it being some kind of software issue because after I restart the car once or twice it usually goes away
 

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Thanks Benz1 I'll give that a try. Is updating the command software the same as resetting it? I'm inclined to agree about it being some kind of software issue because after I restart the car once or twice it usually goes away
No it's not. Command firmware is different.
Strut airmatic is different.

What you're experiencing sounds like a bad pump.

Mine leaks from the strut. When there is a small leak the compressor works and if it takes over 1 min (I am not sure on the time) and hasn't reached the full height, the malfunction light comes on the dash.

In your case, it isn't filling up fast enough but with new struts I would point at the pump.

I have a STAR diagm and there is a suspension test section - you can test all the suspension components from the air tank and pump for leaks. You can test the valves and much more.
When the front driver side strut had a small leak it did not detect the leak as it was minor.
Now that it got worse It tells me it's a line leak or strut between the valve and the strut.

Have the dealer do a test to all the suspension components via STAR.
 

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Thanks Arlind86, you are right they are not the same. If it makes it easier think of it as your phone for example when you update it to a newer version it's not really the same as when you do a reset to the whole phone to factory setting... hope this clears things up
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Arlington park place charged me twice for a diagnostic. The first time was when I bought another pump from the dealer. The second was after that didn't work. They said they tested every component and there is no leak at all after letting it sit for 4 hrs. Two other techs said the same. The dealership said they did a smoke test and as well. They also had me to do an alignment twice but to no avail. I have noticed if I hear the pump hiss when I open the drivers door everything works fine unless I'm parked on an uneven road (passenger side lower) and someone sits in the passenger seat then it lights up. If I don't hear the pump when I open the door then it lights up. Don't know why but, if I hear the pump no light.
 

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I really don't understand why they charge for another diagnose, my guy already knows he would have to diagnose to check and I would only pay for the fix even if nothing had to be replaced no charge so he keeps his customers happy. back to the airmatic problem I did change my driver side because it was hissing and would lower when parked but I asked him if I should change the pass side he said NO need. Now when i go out the car sits a bit lower on the pass side but not as bad as it was with the driver side when I asked him he said it's normal because it has less life so it's gotten weak holding the air inside but won't affect anything. he was right when I start the car it set's level and pump only work for about 10 sec to level it and no sound from the pump unless I go out and walk to the front an listen carefully. before the change the pump was as loud as a diesel as it it struggled pumping air into a strut that was taking in the air and releasing it where it where it was blown at the same time. I did not change the pump so your problem is not the pump or the struts since you have already changed them I would stop there and start looking at why the pass side. you answered your self when the pump works the light won't show when it's not the light show up. so it very clear that your pass side wiring to the pump is not good because it's not pumping air accordingly so I would focus on the pass side front and rear just to make sure and after do the re-set through STAR you should be good to go. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again Benz1. I think I'm going to drop the bumper and check the harness to ensure there's no chafing all the way up to the a pillar (myself) later today. The workshop manual said you have to peel back the the tape around the wire to see the fray sometimes. Not sure if the techs did that so I'm gonna try it myself. Couple of questions.1) If one of the wires from the pump is damaged and touches metal will it pop the fuse every time? 2) Benz1 what would be your suggestion on how to "focus on why the front right". I'm not a mechanic but have been driving s class for over a decade and familiar with airmatic and at this point ready to try anything!
 

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Thanks again Benz1. I think I'm going to drop the bumper and check the harness to ensure there's no chafing all the way up to the a pillar (myself) later today. The workshop manual said you have to peel back the the tape around the wire to see the fray sometimes. Not sure if the techs did that so I'm gonna try it myself. Couple of questions.1) If one of the wires from the pump is damaged and touches metal will it pop the fuse every time? 2) Benz1 what would be your suggestion on how to "focus on why the front right". I'm not a mechanic but have been driving s class for over a decade and familiar with airmatic and at this point ready to try anything!
i really have no idea on how to check or if the bumper needs to be out because I never did it myself it is too sensitive i should warn you. as for the fuse i think 'yes' because if it's not working right the fuse is most likely cutting on and off so it's overworked but touching metal wouldn't be my concern as cables already by the inner fender bare metal or aluminum so i would worry if the cable is damaged and exposed not make contact with water or so on... your lucky last night i came across someone who had similar issue of your problem so i highly suggest taking the same steps and he went back and forth like you. it would appear that the dealer checks for leaks but not very thoroughly personally i think the techs in there had gotten lazy as airmatic is a common problem, they assured him nothing is faulty about his car but after some serious talk with them. they ended up inspecting the whole airmatic system seriously everything even the small screws and sure enough it was a minor leak in on of the hoses but they didn't want take apart everything the first couple of times so they just told him it was fine as they looked and nothing showed up on STAR. now everything is back on track. this truly is my suggestion in your case it's a must to have to take everything out check electric cables, air hoses, fuses and connectors. now i have no idea whatsoever on how but i would go to the dealer and go in there to make sure they are doing it trust me they always tell me not go in there it's work place i never listen...:smile once you peak in and made sure they did in fact take everything out, leave it and come back for the end result. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I agree. And if that is the case i would assume it would be on right front strut line. It's always lower on that corner when it lights up.leading them to have me to unnecessarily replace it a couple times. This is the msg the tech sent the last time I replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Give me a few... I'm having problems sending the pic. The upload confirmation blocks the send on my phone
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well.. couldn't get it to go through ... 5287 strut implausible was the code from star but that was back in August. I'm going to go talk to the service manager at the dealer next week to try to get it fixed.i love the car but I prefer driving my w220 4 matic. I'm going to have him check my vin for any software updates and show him the service bulletin and the workshop manual referring to my issue. And believe me Benz1 after being this far in I definitely want to see what the hell I'm being charged for so they may add well pass me one of those fancy shirts. :) The last tech was cool stayed about a hour after closing took're back there and showed me all he had done and why he would change the valve block. Said he's been Benz tech for 13 years and never had this issue
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I also have a control module that I purchased new from the dealer unnecessarily per the instruction of the first " benz tech" whose star was messed up, so he ordered another from China, after something didn't register because of the wrong cable he advised me to hopelessly waste that 5 hundred on the control module. The clown got rude after he couldn't figure it out so that ended that 10 year relationship with that shop. When I took it to the dealer the tech put the old one back on because nothing was wrong with it in hopes of me getting my money back from they're sister Mercedes dealership. No luck
 

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Trust me i understand the struggle, especially with outside shops other than the dealer i was sent (by a used Mercedes dealer) to this old guy who had his two of his boys working with him he only works on Mercedes cars and he is well over 60 so you imagine 30+ years in experience only on Mercedes cars. The first time i went there he changed my left-front air-shock. The second time i dropped by he started talking about how he only takes cars by appointment and blah blah blah... right then i knew he wasn't the guy for me and walked away. I did feel bad because that shop had 5+ w221 cars just that time i was there and it's only a few block from the dealer so all parts he uses and i quote " I only work with oem part" the first two weeks i was regretting not kissing his a** and start a new page with him he charged less than half of dealer labor and i analyzed that there were at least 7 or 8 cars there and only 3 guys!! so he did not need a new customer! after all i only needed sunroof motor and back-up camera wire fixed. what's interesting is one night i was driving around checking shops that open late at night(1pm-10pm) for parts because as you know dealer shuts down and these guys take the chance to sell oem parts and promote different brands as well incase you had to travel or whatnot at night time you buy what you need you head out. after i got a filter and a few other things i met this guy who only works on BMW-AUDI-MERCEDES at his shop as he offered i stop by and sure i was bored enough driving around i took what i had and went there. Man i couldn't be any luckier this guy laughs and chats and lets you there while he works i already dropped by twice and he never gave me any appointment crab if his hands are free his there to work and his customer base seemed good as 3-4 cars dropped by the two times i was there so I suggest you go around these guys are different find the one that suits your need and an understanding of a mechanic, some people don't care to stick around a and learn about their car they just need it done. I happen to struggle whenever i leave my car it just keeps nagging at me so i know i can't i must see it get done and know what was taken apart and put back together call me old school but you won't be first to do so! good luck. Things always work out 'unless your in prison' :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is true. I will get to the bottom of it and hopefully prevent anyone else from this expensive tail chasing. I currently have another problem.The tire shop has stripped out what seems like two wheel bolts. I'm going to have to replace the hub now, or is it possible and safe to rethread the hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did... they keep stripping, dealer charges $20 a piece & I've purchased five or six of them. Looks like a new hub if it can't be rethreaded
 
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