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Discussion Starter #22
I just ordered the exact parts you listed for my E63, will report back how it goes, I don't quite understand the part about grounding the wires because of interference from the engine, can you explain that more, I heard you talk about it in the video but no mention in your write up or I missed it.

Anywhere special to get the antenna cable? I'm just going to have a local installer put it in, will probably print out your instructions as well. Thank you very much for providing these details, my Comand unit just crapped out the other day and this looks like an awesome upgrade.
sorry for the confusion! when i wrote that tutorial is was still messing around with wire routing and cleaning up the install a bit.

i actually removed the ground loop isolator i installed (so ignore that step) and instead installed one of these (
) + noise filters. You use that to power Both the HU and Avin box. it filters out any noise that may exist before that point. That completely eliminated the engine noise for me. install instructions for that are on the box it comes in.
(i did away with the ground loop isolator because it actually reduced my sound quality quite a bit.)


As for if all this is available in Australia, i have no idea. you'd have to contact AVIN.
 

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Is there a way to use the Avin MOST adapter to retain the fiber optic for the 4 channel full range but use a separate amp on the subwoofer output to run outside the fibre optic loop? I could live with the factory full range if I could get decent base. .
 

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Is there a way to use the Avin MOST adapter to retain the fiber optic for the 4 channel full range but use a separate amp on the subwoofer output to run outside the fibre optic loop? I could live with the factory full range if I could get decent base. .


You could just use a loc and tap into the woofer in the back but the fact that you are mentioning getting the avin most leads me to believe you are getting an after market headunit which usually comes with independent subwoofer rca outs which would be even better to use.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I am considering an aftermarket headunit. I'm looking at the droid units that have an OEM look and I'm trying to decide whether to use external amps for both full range and subwoofer; or, keep the factory amps on the full range and a separate amp for the subs. I'm just not sold on the quality of the droid units although I'm hearing good things from those on the benz forums. The major issue I'm sorting through is how to get good base. I have a CL600 with the factory free air/infinite baffle sub and I'm thinking of using a new/old stock JL Audio 10IB4 which is one of the best free air subs of all time (I actually have a pair). The trunk of the W215 is small so I'm not keen on a box. Plus there's no way to get air through the back seat. I'd love to hear any positive feedback from anyone that's do free air with success in the W215.
 

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I am considering an aftermarket headunit. I'm looking at the droid units that have an OEM look and I'm trying to decide whether to use external amps for both full range and subwoofer; or, keep the factory amps on the full range and a separate amp for the subs. I'm just not sold on the quality of the droid units although I'm hearing good things from those on the benz forums. The major issue I'm sorting through is how to get good base. I have a CL600 with the factory free air/infinite baffle sub and I'm thinking of using a new/old stock JL Audio 10IB4 which is one of the best free air subs of all time (I actually have a pair). The trunk of the W215 is small so I'm not keen on a box. Plus there's no way to get air through the back seat. I'd love to hear any positive feedback from anyone that's do free air with success in the W215.


That's funny I'm also on the merc forum and looking to do similar upgrade to my w219 cls500 with one of these headunits but there's literally no info on the big screen ones everyone seems to get the rk3188 7 inches unit. I'm sure you're following the android headunit post on the guys eclass as well. I put two subs in the trunk of mine so the bass is a non issue but I assume your car has a much smaller trunk. If you don't want to do any major work I'd go for a low profile single sub and get the box with a port going up. I should also probably do that in my car. If you're adding a new amp in the car you might as well remove the stock sub and put a better sub there and run the sub out from the amp.
 

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I'm really interested in knowing if full screen mirroring works with iphone! About to pull the trigger on this one :)

Is it possible to change the color of the backlight to match that of the car? This backlight is more red which doesn't look like it is matching...?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
answering private message with a full PM box

answering a PM, hit the reply button, found out the guy had a full PM box. SOOOO im posting it here, hopefully helping anyone else needing clarification.

"I have been using your post as a guide to install an aftermarket stereo in my w211. So far, I have managed to get every thing working except for steering wheel control. After rereading your post, I realized that there are a couple things that I cannot figure out. Using your post, I have purchased the head unit, and AVIN MOST box as you have recommended. But I cannot determine which wires coming out of the CANBUS are the CAN wires that I need to connect to the brown and brown-red wires in the CAN bridge. On the head unit, two wires, white and blue, are labeled as CAN-TX and CAN-RX. These two wires come out of the head unit harness and plug into the CANBUS box. But there are no CAN wires coming out of the CANBUS box. (in a youtube video, CANBUS box is shown to have a pair of blue and white coming out).
Also, you had listed that you needed "a couple dozen feet of 16-18 gauge wire for can bus connections and splicing" . How many splices did you have to make from CANBUS to CANBridge?
I feel like I have been running a marathon with this project, and now facing a huge hurdle just before the finish line. I really hope you can get me across the finish line. Thank you for your time."




If i recall, the CAN-B wires that need to be connected to are the 2 green wires (Green, Green/White?) in the main radio wiring harness. i believe the wiring "glossary" is printed on a sticker on top of the Head unit. You just need to connect those green wires to the brown, brown/red wires. I cant remember the correct color combination for which colors connect together in what order, but if you get the CAN connections wrong its not going to hurt anything, just flip-flop them out and the CAN controls should work!

Good luck on this project! it was a fun weekend project for me getting everything working, but the end result was way worthit!
 

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These are all the wires and harnesses that came with the head unit. None of the harnesses have the green green-white wires that you describe. I do see the wires that you refer to in a YouTube video. But they are not present in any of the harnesses that I received.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
what are those 2 green wires coming out of the white CAN BUS box connector? I see them in both the pictures. you also have green wires coming out of the black HU connector. What are those? i remember the can wires from the CAN box being green. the sticker on top of the HU, what color does it say your CAN connections are?

Remember, the incoming CAN communication from the car goes into the CAN BUS BOX input, NOT the radio input.
 

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The sticker on HU indicates blue and blue-white wires, #1 and #1 1, as CAN-TX and CAN-RX. But on the actual HU plug they are grey and blue. I will try the connection between the green wires on the CANBUS to CAN-bridge wires today.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If you're still having issues. You might want to contact the manufacturer and ask them for help.

And yeah. Try those grey wires first that are labeled "can." They may have changed the wiring colors since I did my install a couple months ago.
 

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Following your tips, I rewired the connections again. The green and green-black wires coming out of CANBUS box are indeed CAN wires. I also discovered that the CAN-bridge wires are in one of the plugs that connect to the original CD player. I did not have to dig through the door sill at all. Now I have SW controls. I did this rewiring last night using just a flash light, and was extremely happy that I have SW control. This morning, I notice the following:
1. The stereo powers on right away as the key is turned to first position.
2. The up and down buttons on SW tune the radio. They do not go from one preset to another.
3. As I shift gear from Park to Drive, or from Drive to Park, stereo would cut out and back up camera screen comes out briefly.
4. When I turn off engine, I hear a audible pop coming from the speakers.

These are the connections I made last night:
1. Yellow wire from MOST box + red ACC from HU to constant wire, striped brown wire, in cigarette lighter.
2. yellow wire from CANBUS to power wire on plug (it had the fiber optics that went into the OM sstereo)
3. Both black ground wires from MOST and CANBUS boxes are connected to brown ground wire on cigarette lighter.

What concerns me is the pop that I hear when I turn off the engine. Should I modify the wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
had the same problem when i first wired it up. Easy fix. You wired the fiber interface to a Switched circuit. It NEEDS to be wire to a constant on circuit. the fiber communication system has to be able to communicate even when the key is out/off.
 

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5 Meter extension cable

i used scotch locks with some dielectric grease to splice into the can wires, then wrapped them in electrical tape.

And AHH, i knew i missed something.
yes, you will need a 5m antenna cable to stretch form the head unit to the amp. My radio came with an antenna adapter to go from the Benz antenna connector to standard iso male antenna adapter. looks like this: Amazon.com: 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Mercedes C-Class CLK-Class E-Class SLK-Class Sprinter Antenna Adapter for After Market Radio Installation: Car Electronics
I've purchased the same head unit as yours and am working through your instructions - THANK YOU VERY MUCH. The 5M antenna cable you mentioned, I'm assuming, is a standard male to female extension? The male end will plug into the back of the head unit and the female end into the male end of the adapter, then the adapter plugs into the amp in the boot? And the short adapter cable came with the Xtrons unit. Is that correct?
 

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Canbus wires?

Hi,
I have been following your plans for the install of a new HU. My MB is almost identical to yours I think -- 2005 E320 CDI. My question is this: There were 2 connectors on the back of the original HU. One had the two fiberoptic cables plus 3 wires that I determined were +12v constant, +12v switched, and ground. The other connector had 3 wires -- one was brown and the other 2 were messed up due to the tape that MB used. One could be brown with a black stripe and the other yellow though really hard to say for sure with either one because almost all of the color rubbed off (?) with the tape. Do you think that this second plug could be the Canbus? I am installing the Avin Avant2 with MOST adapter. Also, where did you tap in for power to everything?
Great thread BTW. Really helpful.
Thanks,
CP
 

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Hi,
I have been following your plans for the install of a new HU. My MB is almost identical to yours I think -- 2005 E320 CDI. My question is this: There were 2 connectors on the back of the original HU. One had the two fiberoptic cables plus 3 wires that I determined were +12v constant, +12v switched, and ground. The other connector had 3 wires -- one was brown and the other 2 were messed up due to the tape that MB used. One could be brown with a black stripe and the other yellow though really hard to say for sure with either one because almost all of the color rubbed off (?) with the tape. Do you think that this second plug could be the Canbus? I am installing the Avin Avant2 with MOST adapter. Also, where did you tap in for power to everything?
Great thread BTW. Really helpful.
Thanks,
CP
Sounds like your second connector would be the AUX/iPod interface (WH, BN, TR). The first one has power and ground but the third wire is not switched power but the MOST wake-up signal.
 

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Canbus?

OK. Thank you. I do not have an AUX/Ipod interface present in the vehicle though I understand that they may have put these connectors in for the future. Is there any way to test various wires to see if they are the Canbus wires? Perhaps using a VOM meter. I do not know, just a thought.
 

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OK. Thank you. I do not have an AUX/Ipod interface present in the vehicle though I understand that they may have put these connectors in for the future. Is there any way to test various wires to see if they are the Canbus wires? Perhaps using a VOM meter. I do not know, just a thought.
You could try to measure the "no activity" voltage from CAN wires but there are easier ways. First of all, CAN wires are a twisted pair, a quick visual inspection should be enough.

You did not mention which head unit you have but I understand you did not have speaker wires at the head unit. That means your W211 has an AGW at the trunk and CAN wires go to the AGW, not the head unit.

You can check all this from the wiring diagrams (WIS or MB model specific workshop media).
 

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Rossafuss,

Hope you can help me. I've installed an XTrons Android 5.1.1 unit in my 2006 CLS (219). Like you I'm using the MOST box from AVIN. I've followed your excellent instructions, but I've obviously missed something somewhere.

About an hour ago, I had the new HU connected and playing music. But after sliding it into the dash there's no audio. Everything seems to work otherwise and if I plug a set of headphones into the front R and L outputs that normally go to the MOST box, I do have audio through them.

Previously when I first set the unit up and got this issue, I thought the MOST might not be working because I had not reconnected the optical connector to the CD Changer. Reconnecting the optical connector alone on the changer didn't help however and I had to install the other two connectors. Once I had the CD changer completely connected I restarted the XTrons HU and audio worked fine. Put the unit in the dash, turned it back on and no audio. Removed it check all the wiring and saw no problems. Still get audio from the front L and R through headphones.

I never read where anyone else had to have the CD changer connected for the new unit to work and with audio coming from the headphones it seems like something in the AVIN MOST.

Any ideas?

D
 
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