Hi RossaFuss, can you buy AVIN Avant 2 head units in Australia?
sorry for the confusion! when i wrote that tutorial is was still messing around with wire routing and cleaning up the install a bit.I just ordered the exact parts you listed for my E63, will report back how it goes, I don't quite understand the part about grounding the wires because of interference from the engine, can you explain that more, I heard you talk about it in the video but no mention in your write up or I missed it.
Anywhere special to get the antenna cable? I'm just going to have a local installer put it in, will probably print out your instructions as well. Thank you very much for providing these details, my Comand unit just crapped out the other day and this looks like an awesome upgrade.
Is there a way to use the Avin MOST adapter to retain the fiber optic for the 4 channel full range but use a separate amp on the subwoofer output to run outside the fibre optic loop? I could live with the factory full range if I could get decent base. .
I am considering an aftermarket headunit. I'm looking at the droid units that have an OEM look and I'm trying to decide whether to use external amps for both full range and subwoofer; or, keep the factory amps on the full range and a separate amp for the subs. I'm just not sold on the quality of the droid units although I'm hearing good things from those on the benz forums. The major issue I'm sorting through is how to get good base. I have a CL600 with the factory free air/infinite baffle sub and I'm thinking of using a new/old stock JL Audio 10IB4 which is one of the best free air subs of all time (I actually have a pair). The trunk of the W215 is small so I'm not keen on a box. Plus there's no way to get air through the back seat. I'd love to hear any positive feedback from anyone that's do free air with success in the W215.
I've purchased the same head unit as yours and am working through your instructions - THANK YOU VERY MUCH. The 5M antenna cable you mentioned, I'm assuming, is a standard male to female extension? The male end will plug into the back of the head unit and the female end into the male end of the adapter, then the adapter plugs into the amp in the boot? And the short adapter cable came with the Xtrons unit. Is that correct?i used scotch locks with some dielectric grease to splice into the can wires, then wrapped them in electrical tape.
And AHH, i knew i missed something.
yes, you will need a 5m antenna cable to stretch form the head unit to the amp. My radio came with an antenna adapter to go from the Benz antenna connector to standard iso male antenna adapter. looks like this: Amazon.com: 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Mercedes C-Class CLK-Class E-Class SLK-Class Sprinter Antenna Adapter for After Market Radio Installation: Car Electronics
Sounds like your second connector would be the AUX/iPod interface (WH, BN, TR). The first one has power and ground but the third wire is not switched power but the MOST wake-up signal.Hi,
I have been following your plans for the install of a new HU. My MB is almost identical to yours I think -- 2005 E320 CDI. My question is this: There were 2 connectors on the back of the original HU. One had the two fiberoptic cables plus 3 wires that I determined were +12v constant, +12v switched, and ground. The other connector had 3 wires -- one was brown and the other 2 were messed up due to the tape that MB used. One could be brown with a black stripe and the other yellow though really hard to say for sure with either one because almost all of the color rubbed off (?) with the tape. Do you think that this second plug could be the Canbus? I am installing the Avin Avant2 with MOST adapter. Also, where did you tap in for power to everything?
Great thread BTW. Really helpful.
You could try to measure the "no activity" voltage from CAN wires but there are easier ways. First of all, CAN wires are a twisted pair, a quick visual inspection should be enough.OK. Thank you. I do not have an AUX/Ipod interface present in the vehicle though I understand that they may have put these connectors in for the future. Is there any way to test various wires to see if they are the Canbus wires? Perhaps using a VOM meter. I do not know, just a thought.