Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
1983 Mercedes 280SL
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello there. There's enough scuffs on the hardtop to warrant a respray. Anyone have any advice on stripping as much of the brightwork as possible? (Looking at it it looks really well engineered and doesn't appear to have an obvious starting point). Diagrams don't really offer a great deal of help.
Any help much appreciated.
 

Attachments

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,318 Posts
All I know for sure is the headliner has to be removed to remove the strips on top.
 

·
Premium Member
1973 450SL 2004 E320 4Matic Wagon 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
3,197 Posts
Fine line masking tape - it's a respray of the same color, isn't it.
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,318 Posts
Do your seals need to be replaced? Seals have to be removed to remove much of the trim. Window trim is probably the most dificult as I believe it has a sealant and clips holding it on.
 

·
It Is What It Is, Dude
Joined
·
22,841 Posts
.



Hopefully Strife will be along to comment. It ain't easy, and the bits are expensive as hell to replace when damaged.
 

·
Registered
1983 Mercedes 280SL
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies chaps. Very helpful (though not what I wanted to hear).
Fine line masking tape - it's a respray of the same color, isn't it.
Well, as much of a stickler I am for originality, the car is an original factory two-tone (brown/gold) and it's starting to bug me a little bit. As the roof needs some work anyhow was thinking about changing the colour.
Hopefully Strife will be along to comment. It ain't easy, and the bits are expensive as hell to replace when damaged.
This is what I thought. I'm going to leave it and learn to live with it I think.
 

·
Registered
560SL,380SL
Joined
·
4,012 Posts
You need to work on a carpeted or quilted area, or maybe even in your backyard on grass! The trim under the rear windows is VERY easy to bend and I think that anyone who removes or stores their hardtop needs a hardtop rack of some kind. Laying the hardtop FLAT one time carelessly can bend about $400 of trim.

Also very useful is a trim removal tool set. The ones available at a parts store (hard Nylon) are ok, but I have a set made of vinyl as shown in the MB shop catalog that I bought on eBay some time ago and these are VERY helpful. They are hard wedges and can be "re-trimmed" if they get dull or beat up.

The first thing to do is to remove the gaskets, which will have to be replaced and I would definitely keep them as a guide to trimming (if needed) the new ones. Badly trimmed gaskets will make it difficult to reinstall and/or cause massive amounts of wind noise. Take pictures and note how things fit.

The second thing to do is to remove the bottom brightwork trim. It's held in with small screws and there is probably rust. You need an extremely good screwdriver that fits perfectly because stripping the philips heads will cause major grief. They are very good metal and extremely difficult to drill out without causing MORE grief.
Then, the sides come off. These are held in with larger screws and there are layers of seals underneath. You will have to remove the top locks on the sides in order to do this. IT IS CRUCIAL THAT YOU MEASURE THE LENGTH (to the bottom from the hardtop) AND ORIENTATION OF THE LOCKING PINS BEFORE REMOVAL. Then, the vertical panels and the panels that were at the hardtop locks can be removed. TAKE PICTURES.

The more I think about this, it would be valuable if I can post the pictures of the INSIDES of the parts, so you can see where the clips are. I will try to do this in a few days.

Personally, I think that disassembly of the hardtop to paint it is high risk with little reward unless the top is in bad shape, and considering that there are more hardtops than cars, it might be worth acquiring another top and masking it.
 

·
Registered
1984 MB 380SL, 08 Ford Escape Hybrid, 1999 GSX1300R Hayabusa, 1989 Honda NX250
Joined
·
93 Posts
I just had my hardtop repainted, part of the entire paintjob. Had all trims removed but the trims on top of the roof. They are designed to carry a rack and are installed with special steel rivots. Did not wanna go that way. They did a nice job working around it.....
 

·
Registered
1983 Mercedes 280SL
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies chaps. Useful info. Any photographs would definitely help. :thumbsup:

Spoke to some R107 specialists who offer this service (these turkeys:SL 107 Hard Top - Painted to match your car ) And even they don't remove the roof rails. Said the headlining needs to be destroyed in order to do so. Though they did say removing the brightwork and seals on the side glass was as 'difficult as putting on a hat'. We'll see.
 

·
Registered
1975 450SL
Joined
·
244 Posts
If it's really just "scuffs" and not deeper scratches, you might get the opinion of an experienced detailer, it could be that a little color sanding and buffing could set you straight.

I did it myself on my hardtop where the paint was etched by bird poop and it turned out well, but my car has a marginal re-spray so I figured I didn't have much to lose :)
 

·
Registered
1979 450SL Anthracite with red interior, 17" AMG wheels
Joined
·
509 Posts
Fine line masking tape - it's a respray of the same color, isn't it.
"Fine Line" masking tape? Is this a particular kind, or brand, I thought most of the quality tape was 3M
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top