The chain run is - From crankshaft - Inlet cam #2 (lh bank) - Balance shaft - Inlet cam #1 (rh bank) - Via chain tensioner to crankshaft.Here are my photos
Im on the exact boat but my bank one cam marks are slightly off. Im only getting p0016. My engine is supposedly past the affected range. I do feel a loss of power on the highway going uphill. Check engine does go away when lightly driven around town or so. I currently have 146k, have tried swapping both cam magnet and cam position sensor (switched on the same bank). Car isnt work much, id rather sell it for a loss to a mechanic or run it to the ground?
If You search M272 timing chain on YouTube there are several videos.I do not have the special tools to do the timing chain myself and cannot find a good diy write up.
I will, thank you!Post your full VIN and I will get you the WIS docs specifically for your vehicle.
At this point, there’s nothing much to lose. Car is worth nothing and like I said it’s supposed to be past the balance shaft issue. I can gamble $300 and some of my time to replace the chain. If it fixes it, great. If it prolongs it for a while? Im down. Does not fit it and break down? I’ve accepted by now 😂. Bought if for 5 thousand dollars and put 50k miles on it as a daily driver, im happy with it lolThe issue here is your looking for a quick fix and I doubt that's going to happen. The fix usually requires removal and disassembly to repair it correctly. The chain is a dbl roller and pretty tuff and may stretch a bit but that's what the tensioner is for, the weak link is the balance shaft gear. Sorry but been there done that. MY 2CENTS
I get the feeling that M272 engines within the affected range are prone to fail early anyway, but people haven't driven them long enough to see this happen. The more time that goes by the more examples I see of cars like mine throwing P0016 or 17 at higher mileage like 120,000 miles and up. I think I'll end up driving mine until it dies and hopefully it lasts at least a couple more years since I maybe put 15,000kms on it a year tops. At that point I'll get a new engine or just move on to a new car, depending on options (probably the latter). I don't think there's any sense in paying for a balance shaft gear replacement when it seems to cost more than a car/engine in most cases and doesn't always work well.At this point, there’s nothing much to lose. Car is worth nothing and like I said it’s supposed to be past the balance shaft issue. I can gamble $300 and some of my time to replace the chain. If it fixes it, great. If it prolongs it for a while? Im down. Does not fit it and break down? I’ve accepted by now 😂. Bought if for 5 thousand dollars and put 50k miles on it as a daily driver, im happy with it lol
Thank you! Any other special tools other than chain tool? Do I need to remove/change the chain guide? Seems like its requiring a tool to be removed? Seems like there is also a tool to hold the chamshafts for removal/installationOK, here is some light reading for you. 😂 I also included your vehicles datacard for your records.
I just have not found a lot of substantial information about M272 engines having balance shaft issues PAST the affected range. I only found one post similar to mine (p0016 with updated balance shaft) on mbworld and dealership told him it was a stretched chain and was replaced. If I can get a definite answer that this is i deed the balance shaft sprocket, I would not touch the chain and just let it ride until it fails then maybe swap enginesThe Exhaust cam and gear will need to be removed if you are going to replace the guide and or chain, The guide rail is held in by a dowel pin, it needs a slide hammer puller tool to remove. I made one by welding a metric bolt to a larger rod with a weight to pull it out. (not a lot of room) You will need to pin the Exhaust cam adjuster gear before removing it as it is wound like a clock spring. You can reset the chain tensioner and reuse. ($35.00 new one) There are several very good youtube videos to show how all this is done. Phaser wheels need to be replaced, ($25.00 each) This is not a quick or easy repair, there are several timing marks that need to be set and lots of parts removed before this can be done. I truly think it is easier to pull the engine and repair the balance shaft than to do a chain in the car repair. If the car is clean and you plan on keeping it the correct repair is not that expensive (parts + - 1000) the $$$ is the labor. Once again I will say I doubt the chain has stretched that much that the chain tensioner can't make up the slack, balance shaft worn down is my bet. Best of luck.
Somebody posted all the information required earlier.Thank you! Any other special tools other than chain tool? Do I need to remove/change the chain guide? Seems like its requiring a tool to be removed? Seems like there is also a tool to hold the chamshafts for removal/installation
The sprocket is in two parts with a spring that rotates one part about half a tooth. When installed, the inlet wheel which does not have the spring keeps the two parts aligned. That takes away all backlash and noice. You put a little pin, a drill or something that fits in the little hole before removing the sprocket from the camshaft. That keeps it from rotating so it can be installed again.Ok so it's just a regular torx to hold the cam from the rear. WIS and youtube is just slightly vague on some things making it little difficult for me to understand the whole procedure in my head like pinning the exhaust cam gear with a pin since it’s wound up like a spring? I can’t picture it until I see it.
This is the sound of the pictured balance shaft.It does not take much wear to throw the tell-tale 1200 and 1208 DTCs (equivalent to P0017 and P0016 OBDII codes). I am not sure how much it takes, but I do know that the VVT system can compensate for up to 20 degrees of difference with its adjusters. It will still throw a code to let you know something is not right.
The balance shaft/idler sprocket has 21 teeth, so one every ~17 degrees. But that is immaterial because the balance shaft/idler sprocket is not itself part of the engine timing. If it skips a tooth, ii does not change timing between the crank and camshafts, but it will (on the V6 engines) cause the balance shaft to be out of time which will result in vibrations.
What does happen is that as the sprocket's teeth shrink, stretch or bend, it introduces slack in the timing chain. The crankshaft still pulls tight on the left bank side of the chain so there will be no timing issues there, but as the sprocket wears, the length of the chain between the left cam bank and right cam bank will shrink. Slack will appear in the chain on the right bank between the crank and camshaft. This will make the right bank camshaft gears run "behind" the left bank and crank, i.e. they will be "retarded" as the codes indicate.
Normal symptoms are that the 1208 (P0016) code appears first and only sporadically. This code indicates that the intake camshaft is retarded. The timing chain directly drives the intake camshaft, which in turn drives the exhaust camshaft via a gear. Because over time, that gear will wear, there is slightly more leniency in the position of the exhaust camshaft. This is why the 1200 code does not appear initially, but once it does, both codes pretty much remain constant, and will appear almost immediately after the engine is started even after erasing them.