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1991 500SL
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126 Posts
For some reason, I can't upload pics in order
 

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1991 500SL
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126 Posts
One more...
 

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77 450SL, 79 450SLC 5.0, 67 250SL, 61 190SL, 61 190, 62 180;Others:www.cardomain.com/id/challenger_7
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33 Posts
You need the build sheet to find out if it once had ADS.
Thanks for the explanatory notes on the snow chain and other information.
OK, mystery solved, I just got my reply from the classic center, see below.
Seems it did have and previous owner did not want to deal with them being faulty, replaced them by normal shocks.
I am just wondering if it is worth considering reverting back to stock or just live with this?! :(

Regards
2613094
 

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500SL ('93), C200 ('14), MGB Rdstr ('65)
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
...I hope someone here can spot where I went wrong and let know. My last remaining solution is to send one of the two units to Klaus of Top Hydraulics....
Sorry to hear AG129. But good quality pictures you share. :)

I cannot spot anything wrong in them except possibly in x039, x249 and x450 (shots looking into the slide valve bore). If my memory serves me right, both of my steel balls were about 1/3 visible from this angle; one of yours seems higher up? However, you wrote earlier that the small valve adjacent to the 3 mm grub screw "rebounds perfectly". Are you 100% sure you got the thee balls and slide valve right?

As I wrote earlier, IMHO your symptoms (the "SUV mode") point to a problem in ADS check valves.
 

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1991 500SL
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Sorry to hear AG129. But good quality pictures you share. :)

I cannot spot anything wrong in them except possibly in x039, x249 and x450 (shots looking into the slide valve bore). If my memory serves me right, both of my steel balls were about 1/3 visible from this angle; one of yours seems higher up? However, you wrote earlier that the small valve adjacent to the 3 mm grub screw "rebounds perfectly". Are you 100% sure you got the thee balls and slide valve right?

As I wrote earlier, IMHO your symptoms (the "SUV mode") point to a problem in ADS check valves.
Hey Pazo

Yeah I inserted two of the smaller steel balls as per the pictures above, then I inserted the sliding check valve with the spring. Then I inserted the third small ball from the 13mm hex screw port, followed by the larger steel ball and then the spring and the 13mm hex screw.

I'm certain it has something to do with the steel balls as well. In my previous attempts I never managed to pull out the sliding check valve and the car always lowered when operating the lever.

Maybe I should have just cleaned up the Y36 solenoid and left the sliding valve alone. That probably would have fixed my ride height switch issue and kept my lowering function intact as before.

Yes the ball in the rear seems to sit a bit higher than the one in front of it. I thought that was normal.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I can drive the car now as I lowered it by bleeding the valves, but I want it to function properly as intended.
 

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500SL ('93), C200 ('14), MGB Rdstr ('65)
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
AG129,

maybe I misunderstood you. Now your car maintains correct ride level when you drive it? But you mean when deselecting normal ride height manually, your car does not lower immediately even if the ride height control rods change length promptly? If that is the case, I'd say it is a feature, not defect - at least my car lowers after driving a bit; but I have never measured or bothered how long.
 

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1991 500SL
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126 Posts
AG129,

maybe I misunderstood you. Now your car maintains correct ride level when you drive it? But you mean when deselecting normal ride height manually, your car does not lower immediately even if the ride height control rods change length promptly? If that is the case, I'd say it is a feature, not defect - at least my car lowers after driving a bit; but I have never measured or bothered how long.
Hey Pazo

No I actually mean that it doesn't lower back down at all. I cannot complete the last step of the bleeding procedure, which is to reconnect the levers to the control rod and have the car come back down to normal position.

Even if I push down on the lever arms, it still stays stuck in the raised position, with a very bouncy stiff ride. My fix is only temporary, and it involves opening the bleed valves front and back, to release fluid and have the car lower back a bit for normal driving.

However, by doing so the car doesn't feel as planted as it did before and doesn't seem to want to raise back up, despite the control arms extending.

Before I opened up the valve, it used to lower back down when I lower the front and rear control levers. And it lowers at a decent pace, not slow and not fast. This allowed me to set my preferred ride height by adjusting the rod lengths front and back.

This is why I'm certain it has something to do with my reassembly of the ADS valve.
 

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500SL ('93), C200 ('14), MGB Rdstr ('65)
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Hi guys

i have a SL600 with strange issue with the ADS. I bought the car a year ago and parked it for a while bc i had no time to check it out. It started dripping ZH-M fluid out of the plugs on ADS valve. I replaced all the seals and while trying to set the height i noticed i can only raise the car while operating both height regulators simultaneously. When i operate just front or back individually, the lever moves freely like there is no oil pressure. Car is leveled but i have an underground parking spot and i touch the ground with front bumper every time i drive the car to storage. Little more clearence at the front would be all i need. Can someone tell me where to look to correct that? Should i go back to that distributor valve that leaked? Its 94 USA spec car.

Thanks in advance
1. In the ADS 1 main control valve there is a bypass valve "50a". Its purpose is to connect front and read axle high pressure side plumbing and allow air escape easier (even if the system is basically self bleeding). The bypass valve shall be normally closed - check that yours is. I have not seen anybody report earlier this issue; your problem could be something else too.
2. One of the ADS advantages is that you can easily adjust ride height to your preference. Take a 10 mm socket and 8 mm thin spanner. Adjust your front and rear height control rods under the car by shortening or lengthening. Check headlight alignment a/r.

Good luck!
 

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MB 300 CE-90, MB500 SE-92, MB 500S-02, MB SL600 -93
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when deselecting normal ride height manually, your car does not lower immediately even if the ride height control rods change length promptly? If that is the case, I'd say it is a feature, not defect
This is true. After rebuilt my valve I was wondering the slow downward movement as well.
And ADS1 is not to be compared with ADS2 or Airmatic, they a much faster.
 

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1991 500SL
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1. In the ADS 1 main control valve there is a bypass valve "50a". Its purpose is to connect front and read axle high pressure side plumbing and allow air escape easier (even if the system is basically self bleeding). The bypass valve shall be normally closed - check that yours is. I have not seen anybody report earlier this issue; your problem could be something else too.
2. One of the ADS advantages is that you can easily adjust ride height to your preference. Take a 10 mm socket and 8 mm thin spanner. Adjust your front and rear height control rods under the car by shortening or lengthening. Check headlight alignment a/r.

Good luck!
Hey Pazo

I keep the bypass valve 50a open during the bleeding procedure as per instructions. I only close it after the vehicle reaches maximum height and I have to reattach the control rods to the levers and have the car lower down again.

I just want to say that before completely dismantling the ADS valve, my car would raise amd lower perfectly fine when operating the levers manually. It was only the switch that wasn't working. After completely dismantling the valve as per the pictures I posted above, I got the switch working but now the car doesn't lower and stays stuck and bouncy. I figured the Y36 solenoid was the only thing that needed cleaning up and perhaps not the entire ADS valve, especially the sliding check valve and the steel balls.

I will open one of the spare valves I have and try to see the position of the balls if they are still intact.

I will also post here the instructions I used for bleeding ADS 1.
 

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1991 500SL
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126 Posts
I might have figured this out. So I took one of my spare ADS valve incomplete units that I use for parts, opened it up to inspect the two small steel balls that sit underneath the sliding check valve. The 2nd ball at the end seems to be sitting much lower in place than the one in the pictures I posted, as Pazo noted.

I tried that same ball in both holes and it sits at the same height. In my pics of the ADS valve currently installed in the car, both balls sit at different heights!

Maybe, just maybe this is the issue here. Underneath both ball sockets there seems to be some sort of spring seat that pushes the ball upwards depending on the position of the indentations of the sliding check valve. I do remember checking that the one underneath the grub screw worked in my current ADS valve, but that doesn't seem to coincide with why the rear ball is sitting higher.

Anyways, when I have some free time this week I'll go back to the garage and test it by installing this valve. Maybe, just maybe it would work.
 

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77 450SL, 79 450SLC 5.0, 67 250SL, 61 190SL, 61 190, 62 180;Others:www.cardomain.com/id/challenger_7
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Shame it was removed, poor business case for reapplying ADS, most likely better to sell and buy car with ADS.

Keep it as it is would be my advice.
Absolutely so, fully agree.
Even Tom from Classic Center said it would be unbearably expensive and also advised against.
The car was imported from Germany in 1999, and not sure where it had this modification made to it. Out of curiosity will try to find out.
Anyway as it is, it is really great in handling and driving - very powerful engine, and all the rest works well.
So will keep as is and if I find one not messed around with, I will change it.
It is just that these cars here are not common to find.

Thanks for all your advice and support

Cheers
 

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600SEL '93, SL600 '95, E55 '04
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125 Posts
Hi guys

i know about this 50a bypass. I read wis and other documents on this subject and i have that 50a bolted down. I recently contacted a friend who has the same year SL600 as i have (95) and he reported the same situation as im experiencing. After resealing check valves his car no longer rises up by using just one level controller. He has to operate both at the same time to move the car up. We both just touched those check valves so maybe we messed something up with it. However his car goes down while operating just one controller while on mine i need to do both to go up or down.

By the way that piston between check valves is a floating piston and it restrics the oil flow to the controller that is not in use. So if i for example operate just the front controller it prevents the oil flow to the rear controller. It should be installed with it the cut side facing downwards while the valve block is installed on the car.

J
 

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600SEL '93, SL600 '95, E55 '04
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Hi guys

i found the problem on my valve. The orings i used on the check valves were too big and prevented me from seating the valves all the way in the housing. I used thinner orings and all the functions are restored. Front and rear leveling is now independent HORAAAAY :)
 

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600SEL '93, SL600 '95, E55 '04
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Hi guys

i found the problem on my valve. The orings i used on the check valves were too big and prevented me from seating the valves all the way in the housing. I used thinner orings and all the functions are restored. Front and rear leveling is now independent HORAAAAY :)
 

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500SL ('93), C200 ('14), MGB Rdstr ('65)
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
I found the problem on my valve. The orings i used on the check valves were too big and prevented me from seating the valves all the way in the housing.
Great you found the problem kubasz. I haven't seen anyone report similar issue earlier - a good addition to our knowledge. As I recall, the plug o-ring seals are about 16,5 x 2 mm. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Have a 1990 500sl in the uk. The ADS valve had a leak and the o rings were around £100 from MB but found out top hydraulics in the usa were charging $250, that was 5 years ago. They used better o rings and a refurb the valve inside out. It came back looking new.Well worth the money.Once back on the car i bleed the system by taking the return to the hydraulic fill up bottle, unscrewing and putting a clear pipe on going to a bucket. Filled the bottle with fluid and started the car. Alot of air came out and once the fluid was coming back clear and the car came up to normal height i just turned off the car.Put the return back and started it again. all ok.
Live in london uk and without that 30mm on the front driving would be bad. Sleeping policemen (bump in the middle of side strreets) are not for a R129.The car goes over them easy.
ADS 1 has some bad press but mine is working great and the car is driving good.
Just a ASR problem now but i think i know why.
Rob
 
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