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1997 SL600
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I've been having major body roll in the SL. little bumps would result in a lot of underdamped side to side, boy roll around turns was severe, nose dive during braking etc. Was doing a standard check up and noticed that the high pressure hose between the reservior and tandem pump looked to have a small leak. When I grabbed the hose I could twist it with my hand. I attached some tubing to the bleed screw (not sure of the tech term for this) on the front of the car and let the oil bleed into a container. Once oil was out I removed the rubber hose that attaches the hardline from the reservoir to the tandem pump and replaced with a new hose clamp I had lying around.

re-used the oil that bleed out (probably a quart at least back into the reservoir, started it up and took it for a drive. Night and day improvement. all issues (except my popping front shock) have apparently disappeared. No nose dive during braking, perfectly damped on the road. Body roll is so reduced it almost caught me by surprise.

no suspension reset or anything required. i don't believe suspension-rodeo reset is actually needed when you open the system since none of my manuals mention this and my experience supports them. Maybe 99 and up models? Maybe a red herring for desperate souls? :confused:
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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4,131 Posts
There are two systems, ADS-I and ADS-II.

Not sure what year is the "break point" for I vs. II, but II is the one that is computer-controlled and requires the "rodeo" procedure and PITA bleeding procedure.

My car is at Continental Imports right now in Gainesville at bobterry's suggestion, and they are taking a crack at figuring out the suspension. I wish mine were something as simple as a loose hose, but sadly I am fully expecting it to be at least two of the dampers. Great. $$$$$
 

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1997 SL600
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I see. Makes sense since I have the mechanical ride height adjusters attached to the swaybars. I've been following your progress, good luck.

BTW I still plan on tearing the system out even though it is working for now incase you were wondering. :D I just can't have an aging car with a system I can't scan without taking it to the dealer. :(
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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4,131 Posts
I see. Makes sense since I have the mechanical ride height adjusters attached to the swaybars. I've been following your progress, good luck.

BTW I still plan on tearing the system out even though it is working for now incase you were wondering. :D I just can't have an aging car with a system I can't scan without taking it to the dealer. :(
If you have the mechanical system, that's ADS-I. Yours is self-bleeding, so you don't have to worry about the rodeo or anything like that. Yours is much easier for indys to work on, and doesn't require an SDS. I doubt you'd have the problems with it that I've had with II.

Also, we've had three of these R129's, and still currently have 2 of them. The other one has a completely new suspension with new bilsteins, and while it does handle great, ADS really takes the cake when it's working right. Great ride and fantastic handling. Even after all this hell, I still don't know whether I'd remove it. But I guess we'll see how I feel when I get the bill.
 
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