Hi. I have an '83 and said to already have an EGR and would not require a tach amp. Is this true? Nonetheless, I would like to have a copy of the schematic. Thanks.The 'easy' way to do it would be to find a turbo 300D in a junkyard, 82-84 with the tach amplifier. You'd need the tach, the amplifier, the terminal base for the amplifier, the pickup near the crankshaft balancer, and the bracket that holds it in place.
Wiring it up is fairly straight forward, if you have the schematic. I'd be happy to post it for you if you do not have it.
The 85 model uses the pickup mounted in the rear of the engine, and would be quite a bit more difficult to install with the engine/trans assembly mounted in the car.
If that is a dumb question than I must be a dumb person, I thought about it, honestly. The reason I like the ones from the later cars (the original one), which will of course not be original in my car, but it will look original and I like it that way.Maybe this is a terrible question to ask, but what if Hank were to go with an aftermarket unit? Easier bits for him to find, would wiring be more simple?
Sorry if this is a dumb question...
It is a question of calibration.Question. -- Thanks for the replies but it brought up a question which has always been in the back of my head. If the pulley on the crank is one size and the one on the alternator is smaller, how do the pulses from the alternator which are clearly out of sinc with the speed of the crank be translated in the right amount of revs?
You use a potentio meter. You run the engine at a reference speed (for instance idle or full load) or use a laser tachometer to determine the speed, and then use the potentio meter to calibrate the tachometer.But what I would like to know is, how is this calibration done.