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Euro Triad '84 280se '83 280e '85 500se
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, picked up this nice little 280se last night and drove it most of the way home to Sacramento from San Jose. I've had my euro 280e for about two years now so I've gotten pretty darn familiar with the m110 and it's neat to see it in a w126. I figure this will be a better daily than my 500se when it comes to fuel while retaining the classic w126 look that I love. Got some kinks to work out like any other 30 year old car but I'm confident it will be straightforward as the car seems to be well taken car of. The ignition tumbler came apart right when I stopped for gas about 40 miles from Sacramento and got it home with AAA. I'll post more pictures when I get the chance and update my progress. The euro bug really bit me hard seeing as how I own three now and nothing else. Just can't get enough.
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Picture from the gas station before the tow.
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This is at the previous owner's house when I went to look at it.
 

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Euro Triad '84 280se '83 280e '85 500se
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it was advertised on here I didn't see it

Thank you guys, the car has some imperfections which is to be expected but overall I'm really happy with it. The paint looks good from a distance but has some damage on the roof. One thing I want to know if how the chrome wheel well trim is attached because I would like to remove it if it's easy. I didn't even think about the front license plate, I've never seen the filler that it has.

Two pictures is definitely not enough, I'll take a good sampling as soon as I get the chance
 

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1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1971 280 114 Coupe (sold) 1988 300 SE 2005 jag XK8
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2,224 Posts
Most stainless wheel opening trim is riveted on. Simply turn the front wheels back and forth to gain access to the rivets with a cordless drill. On the rear, jack the car up to gain access!
 

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1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1971 280 114 Coupe (sold) 1988 300 SE 2005 jag XK8
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2,224 Posts
If it were me, I'd pull off one and make that decision once removed. They can hide rust or there can be a big difference in paint fading. ( paint brighter under the molding) Personally I like them on a stock, unaltered MB. They seem period correct. Any changes, different wheels, lowering, etc. they should be removed. IMO. The rivet holes are barely noticeable. I'm in Stockton by the way!
 

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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250 "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car, 350SDL (Sold)
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When you drill out the rivets you'll expose bare metal on the edge of the holes. At least seal them up. Filling the holes with new rivets is probably the easiest way, just put some sealer on them first.
 

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Euro Triad '84 280se '83 280e '85 500se
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, I'll figure something out. Taking one out to check is a good idea, I know they can harbor rust and that's why I want to remove them.

Carnut, good to know you're so close. I need to find more members nearby like you.

My car was on Craigslist but it wasn't for $500 and the seller didn't have that attitude. The seller didn't want to fix the car up but he did a few things to get it in better condition before selling.
 

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Euro Triad '84 280se '83 280e '85 500se
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah! Definitely has to have been redone because it's much quieter than the 280e with 215k on the clock. I have yet to dig through the stack of documents to get more info on it.
 
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