Barely counts. Good on ya.I woke up much earlier than I wanted to, so I guess I’ll give another quick update.
I did a bit more work last night.
I bought new grade 8 hardware for securing the motor mounts to the subframe brackets. 4 giant bolts, 4 giant nuts, and 8 half inch washers for $3.99. I love Atwood’s hardware section so much.
I climbed into the engine bay (fun) to redo some of my welds, just to be absolutely sure of their security, and to correct for the slight tilt of the engine.
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When the welds were rock solid, I degreased and cleaned the subframe and nearby panels. I gave it a coat of rust encapsulator just to be safe, and to clean up the look a bit.
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Another reason for redoing my welds a bit was to correct the tilt of the engine I had. My dad let me know that it’s best to start with a perfectly even drivetrain and THEN work on any tilt that’s required to make the driveshaft work, or to clear any obstructions. It may just stay like this though, since I’m not seeing any reason why the transmission won’t fit in the tunnel like this.
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An added bonus is that since the front of the engine doesn’t sit higher than the rear now, the hood clears everything without making any contact! But only just barely.
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This is true. Every mm counts here.Barely counts. Good on ya.
I'm not sure if you want to move the shifter back that far. But I see an opportunity to weld a shift handle hard to the yoke coming out of the transmission and have it come up threw the original location. In that case the shifter would slide forward and aft instead of pivot. I'm not sure if that would be cool or not, but it would make putting a shifter gate an easier "Ferrari like" option.This is true. Every mm counts here.
So with the pressure of moving to Germany ramping up, I’m ramping up the work on my car. Last night I had a light evening of work. I did some planning with the transmission, the shifter, the driveshaft, and the clutch.
The clutch pedal will require a bracket to bolt into the wheel well area, obviously. But unfortunately you guys were right that I should run a remote reservoir for the clutch. Sooo, the master cylinder is going back. I made access ports on the drivers side by removing a bunch of useless wiring. Also removed a bunch of computers while I was in there too, and made sure the car still ran the fuel pump circuit when the key was turned.
Here you can see where the shifter will sit. I used the little steering wheel hub to simulate the shift knob, which will be in a great position when I swap out the drivers seat.
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Here is the final clearance for exhaust. Looks like a mid dump header (biased towards the rear) WILL clear this, and the little cutout I made will allow the tube to run down and under the transmission.
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Lastly, I was pleasantly surprised to see the driveshaft front half just slips off the rear via a slip yoke. I can just have a driveshaft shop shorten this piece to have it accommodate the new transmission.
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To me, the original shifter is a bit too far forward. I was definitely considering getting a new shift rod that allows me to have it slightly forward from the position I showed, but we’ll see if it’s needed. I’d prefer a new shift rod vs a shifter relocation kit. $$$ savings.I'm not sure if you want to move the shifter back that far. But I see an opportunity to weld a shift handle hard to the yoke coming out of the transmission and have it come up threw the original location. In that case the shifter would slide forward and aft instead of pivot. I'm not sure if that would be cool or not, but it would make putting a shifter gate an easier "Ferrari like" option.
How much do you have to shorten the drive shaft. On my car it was miraculously the perfect length.
That is the way the exhaust was installed when dropping a 302 Ford V8 into a Pinto.So we’re back onto exhaust yet again. We’ve found zero options that won’t require heavy fabrication and time is running shorter and shorter. So… this is the idea.
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Exhaust installed backwards (wrong sides), dumping forwards and downwards below the V belt. Then, directing the 2.5” diameter pipe down in front of the oil pan, and then direct right angle below the oil pan and subframe. This will reduce the cars clearance by about 1.5-2”, but it has a ton of silver linings (no heat on brake lines or steering, power steering becomes a cinch, tons of room for wiring, no BS with throttle cable or clutch line, etc). To mitigate things smacking my exhaust, I’ll probably add a forward facing plate onto the subframe to deflect air slightly.
Next up, throttle cable stuff. I’m not super familiar with this stuff, so I was mostly “playing it by ear”. I cut down an ICT billet throttle cable holder to fit under the hood (it was about 5” taller than this). The cable actuated the throttle body easily and smoothly. I will likely reuse the OEM accelerator pedal too.
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there’s been other work but it’s not really noteworthy. I’m rushing home to dinner. My dad and I will be here again tomorrow, and I know we’ll get some excellent work done.
Thankfully, we've since found a way around having the exhaust route under the car. This ate up our entire Sunday of work, but I think it'll be worth it.That is the way the exhaust was installed when dropping a 302 Ford V8 into a Pinto.
Wheel bolts too long?Next up, this one is baffling me, so any help will be much appreciated. The rear wheels WONT turn, even though the parking brake is fully disengaged and the car is suspended. There’s no spacing conflict and the OEM wheels also won’t turn. I dug into the parking brake mechanism but I can’t seem to get it to behave.
Lastly about the parking brake, I’m likely going to splice in a classic parking lever from pick n pull, and remove the parking brake pedal. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Nope. The rotors won’t spin alone either. That’s why I’m looking into the parking brake. Is there some kind of thing that locks the rear wheels if the car is turned off? I know some modern cars will do that even without the parking brake engaged, but I have my doubts about a 1986 having that.I dont know but if you take the wheels off will the rotors spin?
Nope. There’s a limited slip diff on the 560sl. So maybe one of the wheels is still on with lug bolts that are too long?Nope. The rotors won’t spin alone either. That’s why I’m looking into the parking brake. Is there some kind of thing that locks the rear wheels if the car is turned off? I know some modern cars will do that even without the parking brake engaged, but I have my doubts about a 1986 having that.
When I’m feeling better, I’ll go check that. 4 turns of a lug bolt seems way too short to me too. But Mercedes in their infinite wisdom must know what they’re doing.Nope. There’s a limited slip diff on the 560sl. So maybe one of the wheels is still on with lug bolts that are too long?
Doesn’t make sense for the parking brake to be hung up if the car has been stored indoors with the parking brake off. Bolts should only thread into the rear hubs about 4 turns believe it or not. Seems nuts to me (no pun intended).
The transmission isn’t attached yet. The clutch disc and pressure plate are mounted (and they look cool) but we’re still yet to stab the transmission on. I’m now sick and was preoccupied with selling off my cars to prep for Germany.You’re smarter than I am for sure so I only ask because this is something I might overlook:
Is the trans mounted and in gear? Looks like your clutch pedal not installed yet.
Nice “small dog” btw - funny how the little stinkers sense when the camera comes out and pose for it. Mine did the same thing.
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I don't know about 4 turns but I do know they end up flush with the inside of the hubs, ~ 10mm depth, which is standard nut thickness for a 12mm nut.When I’m feeling better, I’ll go check that. 4 turns of a lug bolt seems way too short to me too. But Mercedes in their infinite wisdom must know what they’re doing.
Come to think of it, I’m pretty sure I used an impact gun to tighten the original lug bolts on. I’ll do some more digging when I’m there.