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1986 560SL LS swap project, 1981 300D (non-turbo), 2005 S55 AMG, and an old Lexus SUV
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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
"Scope creep" You must have worked for Sikorsky Helicopter at one time.
I cannot confirm nor deny these accusations. :)
I will just say that I work at an agency now that has them answering to me in a lot of ways, so I have to learn their lingo.

Another small update. I took the main caps back off the engine to re-lubricate everything. I am finishing up on replacing the rod bolts this week, and my dad is currently lapping the valves of the new cylinder heads. The engine is coming along quite nicely, and (hopefully) everything should begin speeding up soon.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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Sipping your morning coffee ....bored?
😂
Nup, don't drink coffee and rarely get bored
Just about to run out the door, with Covid restrictions mostly removed here now I'm running just trying to get rid of the work backlog
I really enjoy reading about these projects and when they go cold I get curious
Bit like that bare foot one with the full rails, love to see that one fire up again
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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😂

Bit like that bare foot one with the full rails, love to see that one fire up again
LOL...for got about that one.

And that dude in Toronto stuffing a C55? into an old rotten 107?
 

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1986 560SL LS swap project, 1981 300D (non-turbo), 2005 S55 AMG, and an old Lexus SUV
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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Don't you go dying on us now @Gymmy
What are you up to with this project
Don’t worry!! Project is still underway. I didn’t see much point to giving every little update. There’s been a lot of major changes happening in my life. My upcoming marriage, I bought an 81 300D, and now the possibility exists that I may be doing some time in Wiesbaden, Germany under the oversight of Uncle Sam. So there is a chance this car may roam the autobahn later on. We’ll see.

For work, it’s slowed down slightly.
1. I bought a MIG welder which I will need for various things later on.
2. The engine has been built up mostly. New rings are on, the crank is smooth as butter, and I’m upgrading every bolt I can get my hands on.
3. I changed course with the transmission choice. Since this car will likely end up making 400-500 bhp, the transmission is now the 6-speed manual out of a Nissan 370Z (CD009). Fun fact, the CD009 transmission is exactly 40” long. On the car, the distance from the steering rack to the shifter hole is 39”. The CD009 shifter should be able to just go right up the OEM Mercedes shifter hole, with little work on the transmission tunnel, and shifter hole.
4. I am going to be putting the oil pump and various things this Friday.
5. My dad is lapping the valves on a new set of cylinder heads.

here’s a couple pictures
Engine: Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


transmission: Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Road surface Asphalt
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
I should also mention that I got a killer deal on some wheels. I’ve resigned myself to likely needing spacers on the front wheels.
I have a set of 4 of these on the way. $500 for 4 17x10” wheels (et 15) was a price too good to ignore. I will use these for the rears (2 for summer and 2 for winter). I’ll also be buying a set of 2 17x8.5” fronts, which will likely need a spacer. Although, they claim to be big brake friendly. We’ll see just how “big” they’re friendly with. But I’m mostly concerned with getting the power of the car actually down to the pavement.

Light Product Automotive tire Alloy wheel Rim
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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After this big airline merge of multiple Canadian airlines back in the 80s...they wanted to rebrand.

So the geniuses went to work and came up with Canadian International Airlines.

Only problem, as it was pointed out, was the acronym.

So it was changed to Canadian Airlines International.
 
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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
OKAY!
Time for a pretty large update. I haven't been doing the best job keeping things posted on here, and I'm sitting at my computer. So let's discuss some progress.

Engine:
Currently, the bottom end is 90% done. Waiting on an oil pan gasket for now, but this last week I finished the oil pump, Cloye's crank/cam sprocket, timing, front and rear covers, freeze plugs, and a bunch of other odds and ends.
Automotive tire Crankset Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Gear
Motor vehicle Gas Machine Vehicle Automotive exterior



I won't lie... loosening the engine stand bolts slightly to get to the rear main seal bolts was nerve wracking. It's all buttoned back up again, and gasket crush should be correct.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Light Bumper Automotive exterior


I also had to "modify" (i.e. hack up) the windage tray for a proper pan seating.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas



Valves and Cylinder Heads:
I mentioned that I was leaving this one up to my dad mostly., but I paid him a visit to come help. We extracted the 4 stuck exhaust bolts (a common issue), and lapped all 16 valves. He wanted to finish the rebuild on his own, so I'm just waiting for his okay, and the cylinder heads will be ready to add to the engine. Obviously, the engine isn't fully prepped yet, so this isn't a rushed thing.
Automotive tire Water Liquid Musical instrument Font
Automotive tire Audio equipment Plant Gas Font



WHEELS!!
This part is exciting, and kinda hilarious. I found a killer bargain on some ESM wheels. 17 inch diameter with 10 inches of width. MASSIVE.
I did a test fit on the car today, aaaaand.... a winner!
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire

The rear fitment was fine (giant picture above) but could do with a small spacer.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part


But, here's where it gets funny though...
I also test fitted these TEN inch wide wheels on the front, for giggles. They fit! WAY too close, but a solid fit that would only require a fender roll and a modest spacer.
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design

And here's the steering linkage nearly touching the wheel at full clock...
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Obviously, this fitment is too close for comfort as-is. However, I found a set of 15mm billet aluminum spacers (correct bolt pattern and center bore), with correct length lug bolts. They arrive this week. Reminder, I got 4 of these wheels for $500. Found here: Silver 17x10 5x100 5x112 Rims Wheels ESM 004M VW Jetta Gold Mercedes Audi | eBay

Other than it just being silly that my front wheels would be 10 inches wide, is there any reason I should spend another $500 for skinnier matching front wheels?
My intent is to use 275/40 R17 tires on the 10" wide wheels. At the very least for the rear wheels. This equates to 0.2 inches of additional height from the OEM wheel and tire size.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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I should also mention that I got a killer deal on some wheels. I’ve resigned myself to likely needing spacers on the front wheels.
I have a set of 4 of these on the way. $500 for 4 17x10” wheels (et 15) was a price too good to ignore. I will use these for the rears (2 for summer and 2 for winter). I’ll also be buying a set of 2 17x8.5” fronts, which will likely need a spacer. Although, they claim to be big brake friendly. We’ll see just how “big” they’re friendly with. But I’m mostly concerned with getting the power of the car actually down to the pavement.

View attachment 2722155
I would be very surprised if you got the ET15 10" wheel to fit with tires in the back. I believe you will need a 10mm to 15mm spacer in the back. As for the front, not a hope in hell with 10" wheels without flared fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
I would be very surprised if you got the ET15 10" wheel to fit with tires in the back. I believe you will need a 10mm to 15mm spacer in the back. As for the front, not a hope in hell with 10" wheels without flared fenders.
You’re very correct about the rear wheels needing a spacer. Glad you suggested the same spacer measurement I got.
For the fronts… I’m undecided. How radical would it be to have a wide body R107 though!? Lol.

But yes that would require a pretty extreme fender rolling for the front. Much more than the rears would require.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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WHEELS!!

But,
here's where it gets funny though...
I also test fitted these TEN inch wide wheels on the front, for giggles. They fit! WAY too close, but a solid fit that would only require a fender roll and a modest spacer.
View attachment 2723167
And here's the steering linkage nearly touching the wheel at full clock...
View attachment 2723168
Your issues with the front wheels will not be how close the steering knuckle is to the wheel. The tire will hit the upper shock mount. The only way to test it is to remove the spring and test clearances with the control arms in the full up position an wheels turned full left and right. Or you can do what I did and that was put paint on the upper shock support and watch for rubbing over a period of time. Going to a 17" wheel with 15ET might work just fine as is measure the tire will not bulge out as much as it would on a 16" wheel.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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You’re very correct about the rear wheels needing a spacer. Glad you suggested the same spacer measurement I got.
For the fronts… I’m undecided. How radical would it be to have a wide body R107 though!? Lol.

But yes that would require a pretty extreme fender rolling for the front. Much more than the rears would require.
With the right spacers I don't think you will need to roll the rear at last no more than the lip. But you will need to balance the spacers to clear both the inside and outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Your issues with the front wheels will not be how close the steering knuckle is to the wheel. The tire will hit the upper shock mount. The only way to test it is to remove the spring and test clearances with the control arms in the full up position an wheels turned full left and right. Or you can do what I did and that was put paint on the upper shock support and watch for rubbing over a period of time. Going to a 17" wheel with 15ET might work just fine as is measure the tire will not bulge out as much as it would on a 16" wheel.
Precisely. I did my homework and opted for the 17”x10” because a 275 width tire would be basically a flat strip of rubber on a wheel that wide. I had people suggesting 315 width tires, but I felt that was a bad idea (because of bulging… and cost). I’m also not going to be driving this car THAT hard.


With the right spacers I don't think you will need to roll the rear at last no more than the lip. But you will need to balance the spacers to clear both the inside and outside.
Roger that. The spacers I got are hub centric with impact strength bolts (10.9 grade steel) that are the regular lug+added length. Is there anything special that goes into balancing these? Or did you just mean balancing as in “not too far outward or inward”
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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Precisely. I did my homework and opted for the 17”x10” because a 275 width tire would be basically a flat strip of rubber on a wheel that wide. I had people suggesting 315 width tires, but I felt that was a bad idea (because of bulging… and cost). I’m also not going to be driving this car THAT hard.

Roger that. The spacers I got are hub centric with impact strength bolts (10.9 grade steel) that are the regular lug+added length. Is there anything special that goes into balancing these? Or did you just mean balancing as in “not too far outward or inward”
You can see this thread for fitting a 16" x 8" wheel. I ended up with a total ET of 14 and all works fine. But you have 8.5 width which will make things a little more difficult, but 17" diameter which will make things easier. One of the problem's you might run into is thin hub centric spacers. For 10mm spacers they really should be made of steel due to the thin area near the hub centric ring. Steel 10mm hub centric spacers are difficult to find. For any thing < 10mm and > 5mm you will not have a hub centric option without going custom made. Below ~5mm the original hub should be long enough to engage the wheel.

 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
You can see this thread for fitting a 16" x 8" wheel. I ended up with a total ET of 14 and all works fine. But you have 8.5 width which will make things a little more difficult, but 17" diameter which will make things easier. One of the problem's you might run into is thin hub centric spacers. For 10mm spacers they really should be made of steel due to the thin area near the hub centric ring. Steel 10mm hub centric spacers are difficult to find. For any thing < 10mm and > 5mm you will not have a hub centric option without going custom made. Below ~5mm the original hub should be long enough to engage the wheel.

Welp, I caved and spent the extra $550 for 17x8.5 fronts. Looking over everything again, you're definitely right. And the amount of work required to make real front fender flares wouldn't pay off honestly.
So I lucked out and the manufacturer (ESM) is making blank bolt pattern versions of the same wheel. $275 each, and I was able to get 2 more in 17x8.5, with a 20 offset. They should clear the front brakes as-is, but I do have the 12mm front spacers and lugs arriving today just in case.

Thanks all. I intend to finish the engine this weekend, including cylinder heads. It's my fiance's birthday tonight though, so I have other plans.
 

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Welp, I caved and spent the extra $550 for 17x8.5 fronts. Looking over everything again, you're definitely right. And the amount of work required to make real front fender flares wouldn't pay off honestly.
So I lucked out and the manufacturer (ESM) is making blank bolt pattern versions of the same wheel. $275 each, and I was able to get 2 more in 17x8.5, with a 20 offset. They should clear the front brakes as-is, but I do have the 12mm front spacers and lugs arriving today just in case.

Thanks all. I intend to finish the engine this weekend, including cylinder heads. It's my fiance's birthday tonight though, so I have other plans.
A little late here and it may not be an apples to apples but I run a 215 40 17 on a 17x8.5 et -20(yes -20. It's a et13 with 33mm of spacer at the moment.) The only thing done is hardcore lip rolling. If the paint is of concern it won't fly unless you are super carefull with heatgun and maybe even go ahead and score it with a razor out of sight. Just saying there's a pretty good bit of room to be had basically. Considering my car is pretty low and the wheels turn like 50°. It tram lines like crazy, and frankly doesn't drive straight very good but once it's sideways it feels great. That will be handled with extended control arms to get scrub radius back into the realm of normal-ish. It's only like this for tire clearance at the subframe reer mount at full lock. Things none of you guys need to worry about. Although with all that power having some steering angle might make you the hero and not the mustang guy spinning into the ditch!!!

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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A little late here and it may not be an apples to apples but I run a 215 40 17 on a 17x8.5 et -20(yes -20. It's a et13 with 33mm of spacer at the moment.) The only thing done is hardcore lip rolling. If the paint is of concern it won't fly unless you are super carefull with heatgun and maybe even go ahead and score it with a razor out of sight. Just saying there's a pretty good bit of room to be had basically. Considering my car is pretty low and the wheels turn like 50°. It tram lines like crazy, and frankly doesn't drive straight very good but once it's sideways it feels great. That will be handled with extended control arms to get scrub radius back into the realm of normal-ish. It's only like this for tire clearance at the subframe reer mount at full lock. Things none of you guys need to worry about. Although with all that power having some steering angle might make you the hero and not the mustang guy spinning into the ditch!!!

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk
-20 that what it will take really hard core lip rolling.
 
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