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I will subscribe to this one (just like all the rest of the supposed drive train swap threads), and wish you luck in completing it. You will be among a small group of people to complete the project if you do, and huge kudos to you if you make it happen. Most fail somewhere short of 80% done and just barely get on the road and have a host of custom build issues that nobody has the desire to sort out. Give it a big push on the first go round! Don’t peter out like the rest!
 

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Curious ... are there other smaller high HP later era engines been considered in order to fit in
better with the Subframe and Steering Gear Box? Just pondering.
Lots of power from small supercharged motors these days, but I think they might be short on torque which I believe is what you want in a heavy 107 with a 2.47 rear ended to get it moving.
 

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Since I’ve got a 300sel 5-speed and also a s124 wagon with an m103, both running, driving (but not ready to take through inspection), I sometimes think about trying to do a 300sl 5-speed with the m103. And the next step would be to jump to an m104, but stock MB components would require a magnet on the flywheel in addition to the three 60-degree timing segments the m103 flywheel has. I do also have an m104 in my 1993 300se that has the same kind of ignition system as the m103 cars, not the stuff that the W124 m104s have.

I think there’s a lot more mods available for the m103 and m104 motors, but haven’t really researched it. The m103 is still k-jet, but the m104 is EFI, so getting aftermarket computers for it and boost is fairly common (relative to m117 anyway).

All that said, I don’t have the skills or motivation to undertake such a project, and none of my kids drive yet, so no father-son projects. My 14 year old daughter is our engineer though. She’s only 1.5 years from being able to drive, and might get into one of these projects with me with the idea of being able to drive them. She likes the idea of fixing up the 1979 450sl previously dubbed “red Smokey” (due to its bad fuel distributor that dumped full throttle fuel into one cylinder from the time the motor started). So maybe there’s some hope for bigger projects like a motor swap in my household. Maybe.

Has @Gymmy considered an m103 or m104 motor? It might not be less work than an LS motor, but could make one of the most desirable r107. It’s nice to know that after all the work has been done, the car would be something that others would see as valuable instead of some abomination.


 

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… I would think the biggest hurdle is the wiring.
And just like Roncallo started with a smashed (running?) full SL600, it’s good to have the full running donor car when doing a motor swap, at least when you are expecting to use the existing spark and fuel systems.
 

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I just mentioned your project to Jason Birch, aka @rwd4evr and he said to make sure you look into the Nissan LS swap kits with the front sump and avoid the GTO stuff that people often go to and hack up the subframe. I don’t know, and believe I’m just relaying information.
 

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…They just came out with a new product for us 560 owners. 17” penta style wheels for our bigger brakes.
View attachment 2713864

Here’s the links:

I will definitely post pictures when they arrive.
I would like to see a picture of the back side of those wheels before buying. Gen1 pentas will fit a gen2 w126 by grinding just a small bit off the w126 caliper, but the 560sl is a totally different setup with calipers that protrude about 1.5” supposedly. You need a big “stalk” on the back.

And this would not be the first time they told a customer their wheels will fit a 560sl only to have the buyer have to send the wheels back.

I hope they work, but just by looking at the front I can tell they probably won’t.
 

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Look what arrived today! 4 were left in my hallway at my apartment door.
Can’t wait to hear if these fit on the front of the 560sl. I do not expect them to fit.
 

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You were right! Turns out they’ll still need a spacer. I contacted their support and they’re surprised because apparently they were capable of fitting their 560SL with no issues. They said that it seems like Mercedes may have used multiple types of brake calipers through the 560SL model years. Is this true?

I didn’t bring my measurement caliper, but you can see the fronts definitely won’t fit.
View attachment 2714913 View attachment 2714912

.
Not true. Not the first time they were full of shit and told someone they’d fit and shipped them to them. A lot of times people will buy things and never even try to use them. So they try to make the sale anyway, sometimes knowing they won’t fit, but maybe just being ignorant. They surely fit a 560sel, but they clearly don’t understand that that’s a different car.

Personally I think you should demand your money back and tell them to send you a return label. But they do look like you could make them work with a spacer… if that’s what you want for your brand new wheels.
 

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Sad. I guess not a hope in hell of getting them on my SL600 big breaks. I thought at 17" this would have been a go.
A high offset version with spacers is what I’d recommend seeking. 15 mm spacers are enough for most wheels because they have some “stalk” already on the back side. Add a little more with some spacers, and you can clear the calipers… the design of these wheels does include SOME stalk, but it’s not that big. I think that they will require about 17-20mm or greater spacer to work with a 560sl, but someone with the wheels and a 560sl would need to do the testing. It can be done pretty easily with two long lug bolts and two stacks of washers. Keep adding washers until the wheel spins freely without hitting the caliper and sits flush on the mounting surface. Then measure the stack of washers for their thickness. For most BBS RS, it’s only 13mm that’s required. Three piece wheels like BBS RS are nice because not only do they have the rs133 made for a 560sl, but you can also buy the “step up” lips and barrels to go from 16” to 17” (or even 18” if you want).

If spacers are done right, there’s no problem with them. In fact, the BBS RS133 have a 10mm bolt-on spacer that goes into a 75mm bore. Since 560sl have the smaller grease hub, they are easier to get spacers to work. The easiest is bolt-on spacers and long (quality) lug bolts. @rwd4evr has done some pretty hard drifting with spacers and I’ve yet to hear any story of lug bolts breaking or stripping out threads even though most of the spacers and lug bolts I’ve bought and he’s borrowed have been the absolute cheapest ones I could find on eBay, sometimes only $20-30 for a pair of 15, 20, 25 mm spacers with lug bolts. I’ve got a toolbox drawer jammed full of them in my garage because I bought just about every variation when I’ve seen those deals.

If you like the 5-spoke pattern better than the BBS weave, there’s a BBS (RT?) Lorinser 16” wheel that uses the same 34 bolt pattern as the 16” BBS RS making them quite versatile too. You can build them into a high-offset and then add spacers to get to the right offset.

This is just an example…

 

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Some of the best 560sl caliper measurements I’ve seen in the ~11 years is been obsessing over r107 and their wheels. Nice work!


The only thing that could have been better is with respect to the wheel measurements, where a straight edge laying over the mounting surface would have made it easier to read that last measurement. Sometimes you can do all the measuring in the world and not know until you try (which is why I suggest the washer method to find the thickness of spacer your really need). But if those wheels are already low offset, then spacers would make them so low that the scrub radius would be off and the handling might be off, maybe even tire rubbing.

Nice sedan you got there!
 

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Also there are changes up front between gen 1 and gen 2. but for wheel fitment the differences appear to be slight.
I agree, but the fact is that I don’t understand the changes well enough to know whether there is any difference at all in:
  • track
  • scrub radius
  • etc.

I know one interesting thing about the rear of an r107:

245/50/16 on 9x16 et10 fits fine with very little room for error.

245/50/16 on 10x16 et11 rubs the sidewall on the inner fender too much to fit.
 

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Fonzi you had a thread on here somewhere about wheels that fit both front and rear. I believe my 18" AMG with 275's are in that thread. Can you find it.

I think a lot of people have fit 10x17 et17 amg Oz 3-piece wheels with 275 tires, but have noted some rubbing. I can’t recall the profile number.

I know that I got a set of 10” OZ that had 265 ? 17 tires and were on an SLC. They were certainly smaller than the 275 that lots of people run on w126 which can fit much more than a 107.
 

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Did you try this on a gen 1 or gen 2 car. I forgot the tire profile and ET, but I did have 275's on the stock 18" x 9.5" AMG 129 wheels for a while with no issued. If I recall no spacers either.
Gen1 cars only. Never had a driving gen2 107 myself.

Post 13 here with a YouTube video

 

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But more importantly, my dad pointed out we have nowhere for a clutch master cylinder to fit…
Huh? They go on the clutch pedal. Hose comes in off the reservoir for the brake master via the firewall to feed the clutch master.

I guess if the transmission you planned to use was going to need massive amounts of hydraulics to move the clutch fork, then I could understand maybe the concept of not having room for the clutch master.

Do whatever keeps you guys motivated and moving forward.

I would expect that the trans shift rods would be a more time consuming part of the manual trans project than the pedal/master. One of those was already designed by the MB engineers.
 

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I think that 3.46 is common in 300se/SEL w126 in the gen2 rear subframe setup, but you don’t need to be tied to a gen2 rear subframe either. It’s just that the 280se/SEL are far less common being euro only.

Not to mention, both will be open diffs with smaller gears. I doubt you could easily find an LSD one. Of course I know a guy with v8 big gear LSD 3.46 gen1 diff in a w116 a 350se. Good luck getting it from him. Even he won’t use it and welds up 3.69 diffs solid even for his daily driver.
 

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The transmission tunnel is ready to widen now.
View attachment 2727791
If you are surprised at the thickness of the metal in the transmission tunnel, that’s when you will realize it’s a major structural member of the car. It’s crazy how thick the metal in the tunnel and rockers is on an r107.
 

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Thank you. If it’s anything to sleep well on, here is the gearing of the transmission I’ve decided on
View attachment 2727798
I’m not smelling any easy win there with those trans ratios. The t-56 is clearly designed to run with a ~4.1 ratio, while the CD009 looks to be designed for 2.7-2.9. You might be able to get by swapping in a gen1 rear subframe and putting in a 3.07 from a 450sl (or a 2.65 or 2.72… I wonder if a 2.65 from a 6.9 could be ideal).

You will be able to get by with the 2.47 to get the car back on the road (with the CD009) but it will be a low revving cruiser that will be slower off the line than I think you really want for a power monger vehicle… kind of defeating the purpose of the LS swap.
 

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I would be extremely surprised if you find any exhaust manifolds that will fit. I have an inventory of factory and aftermarket shorty headers and manifolds, even the r129 needed custom headers. The motor mounts and steering box are in the way. Some of the Chinese shorty headers I have don’t even have provisions for any plug wires. It’s probably going to have to be a log style manifold that’s made.
Don’t kill the project! Take it easy on the kid!

So how can we help?

I think focusing on what he can do to get the car running under its own power is the way to go. Sure, the 2.47 is probably going to be all wrong for those manual transmissions. But it will be able to drive if handled with kid gloves.

Are there any small transmissions that might allow the trans to NOT have to be cut and welded?

I know that nobody ever had to cut and weld the trans tunnel to fit a g265 on an m117 (with the elusive custom AMG bell housing). So that’s an example of something that fits without modification. There’s also the 350sl 4-speed transmission bolted to iron block 3.5 m116, 4.5 m117, or even a 450slc 5.0 block.

Does the transmission chosen HAVE to be huge?

And are there any crazy-town solutions for custom headers? Or just making them totally custom?
 

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All that is one reason I bought a getrag265 as not only has AMG done it with an alloy m117, but several others have duplicated and documented the whole job including the specially machined bushing for the pilot bearing, etc. just getting the bell housing is the problem. I imagine that getting a bell housing for a getrag265 to an LS motor would be easier, but what do I know. Nothing, as I’ve never done a motor swap.
 
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