[tim'sclk]

My 2000 CLK 430 convertible was a rocket - last year. I seem to have lost the top "throw you in the backseat" gear when I jump on it. It acts like it wants to get there, some hesitation, but doesn't seem to take that leap into afterburner. It drives fast, drives well, no "limp mode" issues, works through the gears smoothly, just won't hit that rocket gear. Almost seems like its stuck in "W" mode where you don't have that high rpm surge of power. It seems like it has been this way since I began driving it regularly this spring. The car is rarely driven during the winter. I try to start the engine and run it once a week, and when it's dry I will drive it a few times over the winter.

I have changed the plugs (OEM) which made a noticeable difference, but no afterburner. I also just put a new fuel filter on it, it had the original still on. Some difference, but perhaps just wishful thinking. I have also ran a can of Seafoam through it. Have done the reset thing where you disconnect the battery and then went out and drove it like a maniac. No change.

I have read about the MAF being a problem though I disconnected it and it made no difference. Drove the same. Also read here about vacuum leaks or leaky gaskets at the MAF. How do you check for that? In my garage that is.

Frankly, don't want to keep putting $$ into this on a hit or miss basis. Anyone out there have any suggestions?

 

[skiflyer]

Try resetting the ECU? Instructions for it somewhere if you search. Can't imagine it would be that drastic, but may help.

 

[Datsun-des]

If it drives the same without the maf connected, then it probably isn't working. There is a guide on here how to clean it, mine went at the beggining of the year and I replaced it for £180 ish as I recall.

 

[skiflyer]

Can you have a bad MAF without throwing codes?

 

[achoren]

Yes. My MAF wasn't the cause of problems that lead to its replacement, but after a new one was in, the car drove night and day better.

 

[dlbehrns]

I wouldn't bother trying to clean it. That did not work for me. Autohausaz.com has the replacement element/sensor which is a bit cheaper over the entire unit/housing. Pull the MAF and look at the point where the electical cable attaches. There are two saftey torques screws that hold the element into the housing. All you need is a torques socket with a hole in the center to remove the sensor/element. You may have to call Autohaus to get it. I was never able to find it online. You can try this for the full unit.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...&[email protected]&year=2000&[email protected] %26 Air System&[email protected] Mass Sensor

 

[A1EK]

I have just been through a smiliar thing with my MAF and agree to the comments that I would suggest the MAF is dirty or gone. You cannot get the fault codes specific to tell you that the MAF is bad for the top end speed. It will just say something like... " Hot film mass faulty.
For me I too disconnected the MAF to try and eliminate it , the car drove the same without for me. I bought a cheaper MAF and it lasted 4 weeks ! I returned the MAF and got a genuine BOSCH,. There is a significant difference in smoothness, start up idle, and overall speed, I STRONGLY recommend only get an original BOSCH.

IF you haven't cleaned your MAF then try that first, it could be all thats wrong, just under the two tamper proof screws and twist the unit out from the tube. You can use isoproponal, or MAF cleaner, somthing that will dry quick. Try not to touch the sensor but if you have too use a cotton bud very softly with the cleaner sprayed on.

 

[BENSIN]

If you have problems with your car's performance then take it to BRABUS, that's what I did and when I got the car back, the car raped the shit out of me. Felt so good.

 

[Zack (CLK 430)]

Ok, so I read this forum yesterday and cleaned my MAF this morning. My wife thinks I've done crack today cause I have been so excited. It is like a new car and holy cow... it is sooooo much faster and no more shaking and shuddering at red lights! Happy Benz daddy today!

-ZRT