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1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,462 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I found a place in Tucson that said they can do the hard line. When I get it back I will pass on the name of the firm. Having this hard line done would make the install of the parallel flow condenser much easier. If it works out I will contact Klima and provide them the information. Right now lets wait. However, I did take out the false firewall on the drivers side, and tomorrow will take off the compressor. When I had the radiator and condenser out I bought new bottom rubber buffers for each. One set was $2.00 and the other $6.00. The old ones were as hard as burnt toast. One should also know that replacing the line from the dryer to inside the car means you get at one end it from the expansion valve. No easy feat. Actually, if you are replacing hoses you really have to do the one from the gas line cooler to inside the car, which really means taking the dash out. So its looks like that will be my winter project. I will update you later on how that goes. Lots of instructions on the web on that. I also need to order the compressor rebuild kit. This moose is wanting a lot of muffins it seems! In case you don't know there is a children's book called if you give a mouse a muffin. It basically says if you give them one, they want another, then another etc. My car, the Moose, is like that. It is never satisfied. On the nice side though everytime I take something apart I clean more of areas I would not normally see! I also strongly suspect the evaporator coil is covered with what Malcolm calls "smutz"
 

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1984 500SEL
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206 Posts
It seems my moose has a taste for caviar and champagne lately.
waiting on more parts. Good luck with the project!
 

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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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9,060 Posts
LOL (couldn't help but to chuckle, I think we've all BTDT) you could also call the "Moose Wants A Muffin" a bit of "while I'm in there". Similarly last November/December when my dear Ursula was down with a water pump I also took care of the SLS pump and changing out the leaky A/C compressor. I still have a couple of "treats" waiting in the wings, another rear SLS strut and upper arms for the front
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
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1,462 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Well, handed out a lot of muffins today. Since I had time on my hands I thought I would take the AC compressor off. No big deal since the lines were already off and it was a simple matter of removing 4 bolts. Once that happened you can slip it down from underneth. I plan to replace the seals, Orings and front bearing. Where I ran into trouble was when I looked at the compressor mounting bracket I thought I would simply take that off to replace the front crank sensor. Yes I know its only for diagnostic but I ordered one by mistake a year ago and though oh well while I am here I might as well put the new one on. Let me tell you that sucking bracket has hidden bolts all over. I think I have taken out 6 so far and still have some missing. Of course I had to remove the power steering pump, the idler pulley, which I found a bad bearing. I also started to take the pitman arm off (another project) which is frozen on. So tomorrow, I find the missing bolts, and heat the pitman arm to get it off. Next we start on the dash removal. Looks like a long winter.
 

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Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
Joined
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1,462 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Ok, if you are ever going to take off the ac compressor bracket here is the scoop. There are 4 socket headed bolts, one stud and 4 bolts on the front bracket holding it to the oil pan. Two of the bolts are right on the side and can be easily seen. You might have to move the engine shock absorber depending on your allen sockets. The stud is there too and its a simple #13 wrench. Then move to the front and you will see a bracket connecting the engine oil pan to the compressor mount. Remove them. You are now done with the easy ones. Ok, looking at the engine from the front you should take off the idler tension pulley. Its a simple allen bolt. Just to the right of the tensioner mount and back in you will find another allen head bolt. It will take a long extension to get there. I used a 1/4” ratchet. Start to loosen-it but do not remove it. If you go to far you will break the crank position sensor with the head of that bolt. Now “waldo”. Look at the crank dampener. You will see a 1/2 moon cut out somewhere on it. Turn the crank clockwise until that cutout is at about the 4 oclock position looking at the engine from the front. You will see or feel a last allen headed bolt. Remove that. Pull the bracket a little towards the front ofthe car all the while you finish removing that bolt near the tensioner. Again be careful of that sensor.

on reinstall, start with that bolt by the tensioner. You will see what I mean.
 

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