Ok Thanks. Might see if I can get a cheap UV light.The dye will accumulate at the point of leakage. Start at the compressor and chase out the system looking for dye at each connection. Do this over the course of a few weeks and, if the leak is significant, you will find it. Leaks can be fixed but you have to locate them first. The dye is ordinarily a very bright green. You can also use a UV light and detect it.
This should help:Hi guys!
Still working on this darn AC system and I run across the blue wire to the compressor hanging down next to it. Yep, must've wiggled until it broke. At first I thought "halleluja!" I figured it out! not that it would have been all that tough. I get in the car, start it up, nothing. AAAAAARRRGG! When I apply 12V directly to the compressor, it starts right up! Sweet, don't have to buy one of those. When I test the blue terminal, it only reads slightly over 8V. Is this the normal range? Is 8V not enough to pull the clutch in? Is there a reset that I must do in order to clear some codes or anything after I hooked the wire back up to it? I just don't get it. If there is a reset, how do I do it? Thanks all.
(PS. just welded in two new Magnaflow cats yesterday- sounds very exotic now. not loud, just exotic)
8V is not normal, should be 12V, you are right.I very much appreciate the help. The blue wire going to the compressor does read that voltage is getting there. It may only be 8V, but power is getting there. How come 8V does not engage the clutch, but 12V does? More importantly, what would cause this wire to only deliver 8V? Also, the link to that thread did not contain any info as to how to delete the codes. Would that even matter if it is getting slightly less power? I don't know enough about these auto ac systems to troubleshoot a problem like this. Is there a way I can tell if the 8V going thru the wire is actually making contact with the compressor? This is a bit of a gut instinct that it may not be.