If the compressor is under duress, it could do this, eventually burning up the clutch. I suspect this is what happened to mine, but no way to know. The pistons in the compressor (7 of them) run off an eccentric plate that works off centrifugal force. The faster the compressor turns, the more the stroke on the piston. There is a 'caliper' that is attached to the bottom of the piston that has a half-ball pin in the top and bottom. The 'flat' of the balls ride the flat eccentric plate on both sides, operating the pistons. One of these split 'balls' came loose, destroying my compressor, internally. The brass plate was so worn, it allowed enough room to lose the pin.
You can turn the compressor, by hand, since the clutch isn't engaged, leaving it free. When my new one was installed, it turned easily. It would be much easier to turn if there was no pressure in the system, so, maybe you should take it to an indie and have the system evacuated. The plate on front of the clutch is what you turn, since it is keyed to the shaft. If you feel hard spots in the compressor, then I'm sure this is why it engages, makes a quick turn, then disengages. There is possibly, more load than your clutch is designed to pull, causing it to do this. All of this is, somewhat, speculative but is all I have to offer you, at this time.
I hope it turns out okay BUT, be prepared to install a new compressor, expansion valve and dryer/accumulator. fabbrisd1 just gave you an excellent source for the compressor. BE SURE, if you have to order, to specify the 'KIT'. It is $65.00 cheaper to buy the KIT instead of the 3 components separately. Also, the aftermarket they sell is actually supposed to be better than the OEM. They told me the OEM had a design flaw that has been addressed in the aftermarket model and they said they sell twice as many aftermarket models but have about 1/4 the call backs of the OEM's