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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Today I replaced the old OEM A6 Compressor with an AC Delco 15-22255
Aluminum Body compressor I ordered on Amazon.com. With this order
I signed up for their "Amazon Prime" so I can get free shipping and
free access to their Netflix like movie service.

The 15-22255 came in free shipping 2day delivery.
Also ordered some oil filters and Power Steering pump filters as
the oil was going to leak out anyway.

Took me from 9:00am to 6:30pm to complete this task - less 2 hours
shopping for a long 6mm socketed hex tool. Neither did Lowes
have this tool, nor Home Depot, nor ACE Hardware ... but my trusty
Harbor Freight did.

Tomorrow morning I'll pull vacuum and if no leaks then I'll install a
new Receiver/Dryer, and pull vacuum again. If no leaks, this puppy
is getting 2 cans of Enviro Safe.

I started trying the procedure to not remove the Radiator ... hey that
can't be done on my 380SL, there is not enough room to lift the
A6 Compressor out. I pulled the A6 Compressor out with brackets attached.

So, I fell back and followed the step procedure that fellow forum
member hchaugli from Oslo, Norway provided:


1. Discharge AC system, adhere to local pollution regulations
2. Remove fan
4x 10 mm bolts
3. Remove fan shroud
8 mm bolts at top, pull up.
4. Drain coolant
19 mm bolt at bottom radiator, approximately 8 l.
5. Remove cooling hoses top and bottom
6. Disconnect Automatic Transmission cooling hoses, plug with self- vulcanizing tape to minimize fluid loss/spillage or collect in a bucket
7. Remove radiator top clips
8. Remove radiator
Pull up
9. Loosen power steering V-belt, and remove belts
Loosen 13 mm screw, release tension (Allan nut)
10. Detach power steering pump
4x 13 mm nuts, move out of the way
11. Remove power steering bracket
4x 13 mm bolts
12. Loosen AC idler pulley and remove belt
19 mm nut, use 21 mm spanner as counterhold
13. Undo AC hoses to compressor
14. Undo AC hose bracket attached to front of engine
6 mm Allan key
15. Undo hose connector at rear end of compressor
17 mm nut
16. Remove AC hoses
17. Disconnect electric clutch connector
18. Remove nut and bolt attachments at rear of compressor
17 mm, on assemble verify that o-ring is in place and do not overtighten
19. Undo compressor bracket middle attachments
2x 6 mm Allan bolts next to timing wheel at front of engine, use socket with long Allan keys, very tight
20. Remove compressor bracket front attachment
6 mm Allan nut?
21. Lift compressor out
22. Assemble in reverse order, top up coolant and ATF, remember to add oil to new compressor (approx. 200cc)
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
If you do this, make sure you have a socketed long 6mm hex like this
from Harbor Freight:
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The way she looked before I started:
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
F*uck. I wanted to try using my floor jack to jack up my 380SL under the
Subframe ... there is not enough room to pump the jack.
Reverted to using Ramps:
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Drained the Power Steering Pump using my hand pump.
Tried to plug the hole using a round rubber plug and
rags. I think the next time I go to the Junk Yard I'll harvest
a Power Steering Pump hose that I can use to plug the hole
with.

Removed the Power Steering Pump and set aside.
13mm socket got the job done.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Now I looked down in the hole and decided that that A6 Compressor was not
coming out with the Radiator in place ... so I removed the Fan Blade, Shroud,
and Radiator.

Then the Power Steering Pump bracket as in hchaugli procedure:
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
In addition to the two bolts you use the long socketed 6mm hex tool, need
to remove a 13mm nut and 13mm bolt on rear of A6 Compressor
AND three 13mm bolts on the front of the A6. You need a 3/8" ratchet,
extensions, and a swivel to get the rear bolt and nut off. I noted that the
rear bolt and nut were not on all that tight.

Someone mentioned in another thread that you need to rotate the Engine to
get the notch to line up when trying to remove one of the 6mm hex bolts.
On my 380SL and using the Harbor Freight 6mm tool I found that this was
not necessary.

Then a 17mm wrench to remove the hard line on the rear of the A6.
It is tight in there.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Two Power Steering belts and single AC Compressor belts set aside and the
A6 is ready to be lifted out. Marking the belts helps when reassembling.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
A6 Compressor lifted out and on the ground.

BTW, on install I removed that Charcoal Filter gizmo (lower right first photo)
when I installed the new aluminum compressor. You simply just
pull up and it comes out of some slide grooves.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
This is what I got with my purchase of the Aluminum Body 15-222555 compressor.
The orange note stated to use the supplied bolts because they are "metric".
I used some but the original bolts would work too, and look better with the
original plated bolts.

The supplied O-rings are for the rear of the Compressor when you attach the
hard line. That hard line is attached using a single 17mm bolt. Its quite
convoluted trying to keep the O-ring attached while trying to attach the
hard line and bolt. What I did was unbolt the hard lines so they would freely
move along with the attachment to the Engine Block. When I finally got the
Compressor bolted down and the hard line attached to the rear of the
Compressor, the hard line bracket was out of align with the holes on the
Engine Block. In essence, I could not have properly mounted the compressor
with the bracket attached to the Engine Block. So, I did not/could not reattach
the hard line bracket to the Engine Block -- but the Hard Line feels very secure
without the bracket attached.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Aluminum 15-22255 and the old OEM A6/
Need to remove the brackets on the A6 and install on the aluminum one.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Brackets transferred to the 15-22255 Compressor:
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Followed process and buttoned her back up:
 

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Replaced the Power Steering Pump filter and topped off with Power Steering fluid.

I preserved the yellow radiator coolant and just put it back in.

Took her for a test drive and she survived this amateur mechanic tearing into her!!

I need to check the Transmission fluid tomorrow as I know some leaked out the Radiator.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Some Observations about this task:

1- You need to remove the Radiator. Not enough room.
2- When you get ready to install the Radiator, do it in this order:
Radiator, then Shroud, then Fan Blade assembly. I thought I would
install the Fan Blade first because there was a lot of room ... WRONG, the
Shroud won't go on with the Fan Blade on.
3- There are two removable side clips securing the Radiator. You got to remove them.
4- The Hard Line that attaches to the rear of the AC Compressor needs two
green O-rings. Its a bitch trying to get your paw in that tight space. I had to remove the
two hard lines in order to get the lines attached to the back of the AC Compressor.
I also pushed the Compressor forward to attach the hard line, then pushed the Compressor
back, and then bolted her in.
A single 17mm bolt holds this in place.
5- There is a variation between the old OEM A6 and this new 15-22255 Compressor
that will not allow for the hard line bracket to be attached to the side of the engine.
I left this bolt off because of the hole mismatch. Don't think it will be a problem
as the hard line is very secure anyway.
6- There is an electrical wire tail that you plug the SL's Compressor control plug into.
I used a plastic wire wrap tie to secure the wire away from the spinning front
of the AC compressor.
7- I didn't torque any bolt on reassembly. As Nobby wisely stated, just get it "mechanic feel tight".
8- I installed new green O-rings in the hard lines that I disassembled.
 
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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Tomorrow, check for leaks in the AC system, install new Receiver/Dryer, pump it up with
Enviro Safe freon. Looking forward to a nice comfortable ride this summer.
 

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Premium Member
1987 560SL
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2,386 Posts
Carl:
Outstanding write up and many thanks for posting the play by play. As you know from the other post I am considering the procedure that does not remove the radiator. Good to know you recommend hchaugli's procedure. For those who seek it that string is located here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1708071-380sl-how-do-you-remove-ac-2.html

I have not yet purchased my compressor. How much lighter is the aluminum body pump, and what motivated you to buy the AC Delco unit? Maybe I missed it, but what oil and how much did you put in the Delco? Thanks again for your excellent advice.
-Ken
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,962 Posts
I'm sure I saw a speck of dirt in one of those photos of your engine.
Nice write up Carl !

ps, I bought a couple of threaded blind plugs for the line holes in the PS pump to restrict leakage when removing. I found fluid seeped through rags fairly quickly.
 

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Carl:
Outstanding write up and many thanks for posting the play by play. As you know from the other post I am considering the procedure that does not remove the radiator. Good to know you recommend hchaugli's procedure. For those who seek it that string is located here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1708071-380sl-how-do-you-remove-ac-2.html

I have not yet purchased my compressor. How much lighter is the aluminum body pump, and what motivated you to buy the AC Delco unit? Maybe I missed it, but what oil and how much did you put in the Delco? Thanks again for your excellent advice.
-Ken
Thanks Ken. The note implies that the Compressor already is filled with Oil.
"ROTATE NEW COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY ... UP TO PREVENT LOSS OF OIL CHARGE"

Also, I noted when I removed the AC hard lines that some oil spilled out ... so there is oil
throughout the system.

Someone else here recommended the Aluminum body 15-22255.
Supposedly it has modern internal parts, is brand new rather than a rebuilt
core A6, and lighter weight.
 

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Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I'm sure I saw a speck of dirt in one of those photos of your engine.
Nice write up Carl !

ps, I bought a couple of threaded blind plugs for the line holes in the PS pump to restrict leakage when removing. I found fluid seeped through rags fairly quickly.
I keep the Engine clean ... well she has always been garaged and only has 44K miles.
I also wiped down the fluid spills as I was working.

Had not thought of a "blind plug" -- that is a great tip.
Do you per chance remember the thread specs for the blind plug?
 
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