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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I am about to purchase a 1980 300SD W116 for $5000. 105,000k miles. All original.

I talked to the seller and he has been driving the car for the last 4 year. He says that everything working on the car and he had to replace the AC compressor and the air is working great now.

Power locks and cruise control work. He says the original owner had the car sitting for a while because he was to old to drive anymore. When the seller purchased the car he said the transmission was slipping so he took it to a mechanic and a "rubber seal" was replaced. All is working well now.

The car has no rust and the interior is amazing with no cracks or rips. He has the VIN history report and maintenance records.

I am going to inspect the car this evening and purchase if it checks out. Is there anything in particular I should look for or ask? Are they are any items that I need to inspect that are show stoppers?

Here is the car....





 

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1996 E320, 2005 Toyota Camry
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sd

Car certainly looks nice. I don't know where you live, but just be advised that the a/c on these cars will NOT cool the vehicle down when it gets really hot outside. Plus, the ACC unit (forget its name) is well known to fail (they're expensive to fix), so check that out thoroughly before you commit yourself. Otherwise, these 116s are absolutely wonderful cars if everything works right.
Hemersam
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I bought the car. Everything works perfectly. Cruise control is set and I'm on I 85 south at 75 miles per hour. Car pulls to the right so it needs an alignment. The air conditioner is actually freezing cold have to set the climate control to 72 :)

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1996 E320, 2005 Toyota Camry
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?

Congratulations on the car; I hope you enjoy it as much as I have my 280SE. However, I have to ask: what was the outside temperature when your a/c was "freezing cold?" You must not live in Texas! :D
Hemersam
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The outside temp was probably 80 to 85, it was night time and I was driving from North Carolina to Georgia.

Here is a quick video I made. Please excuse the statement in the video when I say "All Metal Chasis", I meant to say the 1980 w116 was the last model to use all metal on the body.

Thank you everyone for helping with my questions. Great website and community.

Youtube
1980 Mercedes 300SD Turbo Diesel - YouTube
 

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Looking for: Euro560SEL
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yours looks perfect. based on what i had to do with my 1979 300SD (purchased 2 years ago with 94,000 miles), here are my recommendations:

1. buy MB rubber seals (doors & windshields) ONLY from MB Classic Center in California ... expensive but the fit is perfect = 1 hour installation versus HOURS for pour-fitting, poorly manufactured aftermarket seals.

2. your rear brake light seals probably are the culprit if there is moisture+ in the trunk. see #1.

3. Check out Kent's Youtube Videos and Mercedessource.com ... invaluable for the upkeep and performance parts & help.

4. If you have the original, and in my humble opinion, best performing A/C system ... go get the R134 refrigerant. the price is only going up. you can find a deal through a local mechanic.

5. get evans cooling for the antifreeze and flush. lifetime.

6. need inspiration for how this engine powered a record beating supercar? See supercars dot net for the 111-II Diesel: Mercedes-Benz C111-IID
 

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Discussion Starter #11
4. If you have the original, and in my humble opinion, best performing A/C system ... go get the R134 refrigerant. the price is only going up. you can find a deal through a local mechanic.
The A/C compressor was replaced a few years ago by the previous owner. How do I tell if it is using R134 or not?
 

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1983 300SD, 2013 C250
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To convert I think you need a conversion kit. should be easy to spot in the engine bay
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the help. I will take some pictures and post to the forum.

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1980 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1973 280SEL, 1995 C280
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The A/C compressor was replaced a few years ago by the previous owner. How do I tell if it is using R134 or not?
If it's still R12 the AC fittings will be Schrader valves (looks like bicycle tire valves) and if it has been converted there will be quick connect adapters screwed on top of the Schrader valves.

If done properly, there should also be a sticker in the engine bay indicating when and where the conversion was done.
 

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1980 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1973 280SEL, 1995 C280
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Just watched your video and what a nice example you have there. I strongly caution you NOT to dump vegetable oil into the tank as you alluded to in the video. Running veggie oil in these cars without first properly outfitting the car will ultimately lead to destruction of the 617 work horse.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If it's still R12 the AC fittings will be Schrader valves (looks like bicycle tire valves) and if it has been converted there will be quick connect adapters screwed on top of the Schrader valves.

If done properly, there should also be a sticker in the engine bay indicating when and where the conversion was done.
Okay I got under the engine and looked at the AC Compressor. It is the following model. R12?

Delphi/A/C Compressor (CS0012) | AutoZone.com
 

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1980 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1973 280SEL, 1995 C280
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Compressor doesn't matter. It will work with many different refrigerants. You need to look at the fittings on the AC hoses. I tried to zoom in on your photos and the caps on the fittings do seem to resemble ones typically seen on the quick connect R134 type but I can't say for certain without a closer view.

Bottom line is, if the system is cooling the car then it doesn't matter what gas is in the system. My car is black on black and it really struggled with R134 so I converted back to R12 and that works better for me though it still struggles in traffic when it's 95 degrees and 90% humidity. These cars were designed to run on R12 so it will cool better in a properly running system.

A few years ago I had another 80 SD that was Tobacco Brown with a Bamboo interior and it's R134 AC cooled pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Compressor doesn't matter. It will work with many different refrigerants. You need to look at the fittings on the AC hoses. I tried to zoom in on your photos and the caps on the fittings do seem to resemble ones typically seen on the quick connect R134 type but I can't say for certain without a closer view.

Bottom line is, if the system is cooling the car then it doesn't matter what gas is in the system. My car is black on black and it really struggled with R134 so I converted back to R12 and that works better for me though it still struggles in traffic when it's 95 degrees and 90% humidity. These cars were designed to run on R12 so it will cool better in a properly running system.

A few years ago I had another 80 SD that was Tobacco Brown with a Bamboo interior and it's R134 AC cooled pretty well.
Her ya go. This is a better picture. Maybe we can determin what "R" rating it is by these pics.




 

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1980 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1973 280SEL, 1995 C280
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Ok, those are definitely quick connect fittings. Looks like new hoses along with the new compressor. Somebody did a nice installation there. Don't get to caught up in the R12 vs R134 debate. If it's cooling then that's all that matters. If you're curious, get an AC dial thermometer and stick it in the center vent to see what your temps are. If you see upper 30's to lower 40's during one of our hot GA days then you are golden.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was just trying to figure out what to use when I refill the ac. R12 or R134

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