[kuseetha]

Dear friends,

This is my first post in this website. I am from Sri Lanka and I am a car enthusiast. I own two Alfas thus somewhat competent with small DIY things but new to Mercs.

My uncle is looking to buy a W203 (that is what his budget allows) and he asked me to find himself a good car.

Since he hardly drives faster than 50km/h (on normal roads) and never above 100km/h (on expressways), I suggested him a C180 non-supercharged model (one less component to worry about and better fuel economy) with an automatic trans. He is 63 this year.

As M271 seem to have issues, all our shortlisted cars have M111.951 engines and I guess the 5g tronic trans. (Made between 2002-2003)

I have read many posts and noted a few issues with these models
1. Valeo radiator leaking coolant to ATF eventually failing the transmission
2. Cam angle sensor leaking oil to wiring harness causing other sensors to fail
3. Head gasket issues
4. Worn suspension


Since we are going to inspect these cars soon, I would like some advice on the following:

1. How to visually identify whether the problematic radiator was replaced or not

2. I have read that some solution is available for this cam sensor wiring oil seep issue, but how to identify whether some damage has been already done or not? Or whether this was already fixed?

3. Does this have engine and transmission oil dipsticks?

4. I have a simple ELM327 code reader with android app. Where is the OBD2 port located?

5. Does these have any liquid filled mounts or suspension components that are prone to go bad and are short-lived?

6. Does this model have any crucial parts which are in short supply?

7. Where to find the workshop manual and the parts catalog with diagrams on this site?


Thank you very much

Tharanga

 

[rudeney]

1. See pics here: Benzbits: Valeo vs. Behr Radiator

2. Any oil seeping can be cleaned up and should cause no permanent damage.

3. Yes, I believe the M111 engines did have a leave-in dipstick.

4. The port is under the dash, driver's side, near the parking brake release lever.

5. Yes, the engine mounts and front control arm bushings are fluid-filled and prone to failure every 50K miles or so.

6. Not in the USA.

7. Get a copy of WIS. You should find it on eBay for under US$30.

 

[cowboyt]

Here in the USA, MB stopped putting in oil dipsticks from 2003 onwards. The transmissions, on the other hand, don't.

Be prepared to do a complete front suspension overhaul. At the present age of the W203, they're going to be due for this, and it's true of any car. This is due to bushings, ball joints, and shock absorbers simply wearing out after 15-20 years. Fortunately, suspension overhauls are not difficult to do.

I don't know about head gaskets--Wikipedia talks about the original Victor Reinz head gasket having some issues--but I do know that the valve cover gasket will need replacing at this point, again, due to age. That's not too difficult, either.

If the car you're looking at has an automatic transmission, then you'll also be looking at a transmission fluid and filter exchange, along with the transmission electrical connector bushing. This is normal on 722.6 (5-speed) transmissions and is easy to do.

 

[kuseetha]

Hi all,

We bought a '02 C180 N/A car with 5 speed auto in Elegance trim.
Silver with black leather interior.
Had no mayonnaise on the coolant cap (another one we checked did have that!) and it did have the better Behr radiator (identified from the crimps!!).
Had 141k kilometres on the clock.

It kept blowing AC to windscreen and it kept on condensing on the outside which was a PIA.
Did not know how to adjust air directions so have to read the owners manual today LOL
Hope it is not an issue that has to be fixed.

Steering lock was broken so that fix is high on the list. (already saw a video on Youtube)

Foot on and off of the gas pedal made some short whirr noise clearly audible inside, which I dunno whether its normal or not.

Engine has a dipstick, apparently not for the transmission.

Thanks heaps for the information, so far it really did help.

Regards,
Tharanga

 

[kuseetha]

Hi all,

Today I had this steering adjustment lock fixed. I could not access the rod by removing just the lower cover (I could have though....after seeing it) so I had a local friendly mechanic tear down the lower steering panel.
Then I went ahead and put a wire so that the plastic rod doesn't pull out from the hole. Then got his help to put things back in place. Cost was like $20 for his help but it took a good 3 hours to dismantle it and fix it. Could have been a lot expensive if I had to do it at a merc stealership.

Next is the ATF change. Valvoline Maxlife is the choice. Waiting for filters to arrive along with the electrical connector piece and a dipstick. (Thanks Cowboyt for your instructions!)

 

[cowboyt]

I'm not familiar with Valvoline Maxlife ATF fluid, but as long as it meets any of the following specs:

• 236.10
• 236.12
• 236.14

then you'll be fine. The best way that I've found to exchange the fluid is to disconnect the return line at the radiator and use the transmission's own fluid pump to get the old fluid out and new fluid in, 3 litres at a time. With these cars, the radiator also cools the transmission fluid as well as the antifreeze/coolant fluid. The procedure to do this is best done with two people, though I have done it alone.

A lot of the following likely will be familiar since you've worked on other cars.

1.) Drain the pan and then pull it off to change the filter. If need be, replace the rubber gasket for the pan, but it probably just needs cleaning. Wash the pan (and the magnet inside) with hot, soapy water and allow to dry.

2.) Put the pan back on and fill the transmission with 4 litres of fluid.

3.) Get a 3 or 4 litre plastic bottle and possibly some flexible rubber tubing about 30 cm long and about 1cm inner diameter. You'll need this for the next step. The tubing can be the cheap clear stuff; this is not a high-pressure situation.

4.) Disconnect the transmission return line, preferably closer to the radiator. You can do it at the transmission bellhousing, but it's more of a pain there since that's a banjo fitting. There's another fitting that, IIRC, requires a 15mm and a 17mm open box wrench to loosen. Transmission fluid will come out of there. Have your flexible rubber tubing ready to slip over the end closest to the radiator. The other end of your rubber tubing should go into the 3 or 4 litre plastic bottle.

5.) Start the car. Old transmission fluid will come quickly out of the return line right into the plastic bottle. While your at it, shift into reverse, neutral, and drive. Using the Tiptronic shifting, move through the gears as best you can until you get to 3 liters of old fluid evacuated out. When you do reach about 3 litres, shut off the engine and find a place to empty that bottle of old fluid. I use the 1-litre ATF bottles that I had previously used during Step 2, along with a funnel to help avoid spillage.

6.) Fill the transmission, from the top, with 3 more litres of new fluid.

Repeat steps 5 and 6, going 3 litres at a time, until your transmission fluid starts coming out nice and red. It may not look 100% clean, but it should look a lot cleaner than it had.

Now you should've gotten a good amount of the old fluid out. Check the level of the transmission with that new dipstick that's on the way. There are two marks on there, 25 deg. C and 80 deg. C. Since the fluid's not warmed up just yet, you'll be looking at the 25 degree marks to check proper level. Add a little if need be; remove a little if need be.

Then, go for a drive to get the transmission up to operating temperature, which is 80 Celsius. I'd say about 10 km should do it. Then, check the fluid using the 80 Celsius marks on the dipstick. Add a little or remove a little as need be. The 80 Celsius marks are the definitive leveling test.

And you're now done!

I would suggest doing this maintenance in another 60,000 km. This will help keep your transmission nice and happy.

 

[kuseetha]

Hi friends,


Today I just decided to have a look at the engine bay to identify things. Really appreciate your comments and suggestions.

1. I checked brake fluid with a tester and the moisture content was so much, it showed a warning light. So that has to be flushed. (I decided to use Delphi Lockheed DOT4 brake fluid, hope this is okay?)

2.

2. Any oil seeping can be cleaned up and should cause no permanent damage.

Next I popped the front cover to see what this cam magnet oil leak is. Found the sensor. Disconnected the battery negative first. And took off the connector slowly.
Oh dear!

Small pool of oil.

I wiped the connector and the socket with tissue paper, then q-tip and finally sprayed contact cleaner.

Found online that I need:

Cam sensor 1110510177
Pigtail extension/connector 2711502733

Replacing these are OK with me. However, I have these questions.

2.1. Where is the ECU located in my car? (is it at the opposite corner to the battery, covered in a plastic cover?)

2.2. How to know whether the issue has gone beyond saving and I am sitting on a ticking time bomb? I mean, whether oil already seeped up the harness to some extent and ECU will be contaminated/fried sooner or later?

2.3. Obviously the leaking cam sensor is a Mercedes branded genuine unit. Should I replace the leaking one with another Mercedes branded unit OR are there any aftermarket brand I should be looking at? (which doesn't leak, if there is anything like that?)

2.4 Pigtail connector 2711502733 (starts with 271. Would this be compatible with M11 engine? If so, it should start with 111, isn't it?)


3.

I'm not familiar with Valvoline Maxlife ATF fluid, but as long as it meets any of the following specs:

• 236.10
• 236.12
• 236.14

Thanks so much for the information! Yes,I checked Maxlife data sheet. It says that it is compatible with all 3 specs above. About to place an order for transmission filter kit and power connector plug adapter.