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2003 S600
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 S600 w/ABC. I am replacing the front right strut. The existing strut has a torn upper bushing and I am replacing it with an Arnold aftermarket strut.

My problem: I can't get the "quick" disconnect to disconnect.... I have depressurized the ABC system. I have moved the upper rubber connection cover up and out of the way.

The only guidance I've found on line is to perform the above two steps and then "pull like hell" (my interpretation). This isn't working, nor do I believe it should, as this is a high pressure connection. The upper, male, connector rotates, so it isn't frozen to the lower connector.

On the lower, female, section there is a knurled ring. Does that need to move up or down or rotate to release the connection? It doesn't even rotate, let alone move up or down.

I have resisted spraying liquid wrench on the connection, as I am worried about contamination. However, I believe the two connections should seal themselves when disconnected so perhaps I am being overly cautious. Any suggestions on this will assist also.

Any tricks or guidance?

If you want a visual, I am on step 8.0, figure E on the instruction:
http://www.arnottindustries.com/ftpManual/SK-2422RR.pdf
The mechanics thrumb and forefingers are on the knurled ring I refer to above.

Thx,
Glenn
 

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MB CL500(C215);SL55(R129), SL63(R230)
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486 Posts
Hi Glen.
Its like with any other pneumatic connector.
You have to press the connecting parts together before you can pull down the securing ring to release the connection.
Also bear in mind that if you have to recalibrate the ABC to the plunger sensor of you new strut.
So without SD Computer and chassis suspension measuring station you will not be able to finish the job.:surrender:

Cheers, Frank
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,804 Posts
Frank is correct about the disconnect, push the female into the male, hard, and then release the clip and the connections should seperate. I am not sure if SDS will be needed with an Arnott strut.
 

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2003 S600
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Discussion Starter #4
Eric & Frank, Thanks for the reply. Funny, this morning I woke up and the thought hit me "try the other side". Yep, the other side works fine and I had no problem disconnecting it.

To answer my specific question above and for the benefit of others that come across this string later: If you are having difficulty with the disconnect: The knurled ring should rotate fairly easily and it is (as Eric and Frank state) pushed downwards to release the connection. If you can't get the connection open and the ring doesn't rotate, it is, like the side I am having difficulty with, frozen. However, now that I understand what the behavours should be I can work the problem confident of how it should work.

Some further detail on the connection I got to work: at first the ring wouldn't turn or un-clip by hand but by using pliers, I could work the ring until it turned fairly easily and then I used a pair of large channel locks to pull the ring down and disconnect the connection. I put the top grip on the top of the ring and the bottom grip on the nut at the bottom of the assembly and squeezed. I didn't need to push the male connector in to get the ring to move and disconnect the connection. btw, I tried this by hand including pushing the connectors together first but couldn't get the connection to release.

So on the side I'm having problems with, I figure that if I can get the coupling to rotate first then I'll be able to push it down to release the connection.

As to Franks comment about running SDS, in my research I found many strings where folks successfully replaced one or more struts without needing to run SDS. Conversely, I didn't find a single one suggesting it had to be run. (The rodeo test on the other hand is, at minimum, highly recommended.)
 

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MB CL500(C215);SL55(R129), SL63(R230)
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486 Posts
Hi Glenn.
As to Franks comment about running SDS, in my research I found many strings where folks successfully replaced one or more struts without needing to run SDS. Conversely, I didn't find a single one suggesting it had to be run. (The rodeo test on the other hand is, at minimum, highly recommended.)
The struts will definitely work somehow also without calibration.
For a perfect ride for my active computer controlled suspension, i didnt want to take any risk. Although i rarely drive 250km/h, on the way to work 180 is not unusual.

The Arnott pdf is also inaccurate with the ventilation procedure.
The "wiggle" program of SD is good enough ventilate.

Good luck,
Frank
 

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2003 S600
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
An update and close out for those interested:

I wasn't able to get the coupling to open so I needed to replace the hose (which includes the coupling). I used epcnet on-line to identify the part:

https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp

btw, I'm running Vista on my garage machine and had no issue running epcnet. However, the directions state to load Java runtime 5.0. That didn't work so I loaded 6.0 and everything works fine.

I ended up purchasing the hose from Prime.

Prime Parts Superstore

Replacing the hose was pretty simple as I had good access to it. Removing the inner front wheel well gave me excellent access to the valve body (where the hose connects).

Some thoughts on the hose replacement. I taped a baggy over the coupling end of the hose until ready to connect the new strut to it. I also kept the plastic cover on the valve end until ready to plug it into the valve body. Both actions where to minimize the chance of dirt getting into the parts.

I had originially depressurized the hose by opening the bleed screw but I was still worried that I'd have a lot of oil leakage out of the valve body once I removed the old hose. However, hardly any oil dripped out. Later when starting the car, I noticed that the botton used to raise the car was douple pushed. I don't recall pushing the botton but I had read where doing so locked the valve unit. So I don't know if the system did this itself or I did. Either way, I was happy that I didn't loose a bunch of oil.

The self bleeding worked fine. I used the procedure outlined here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1570975-abc-pump-replacement.html

Notes: Prior to starting the car, I filled up the reservoir (on the motor "Auf" side of the stick). Then started the car. The car didn't raise up at first, then I noticed the raise button was engaged. Once I hit the botton the car rose right up. I went ahead and stopped the engine, checked and refilled the reservoir. Then started the car again. From then on, I checked and filled using the "An" side of the dip stick while the car was running.

I used just less than a whole liter of CHF-11S to refill the system.

After two days everything is working fine.

Future: I noticed that the fluid isn't looking too good. So, as part of the parts procurement process, I purchased the two filters for the tandem pump. I aim to get the shop manual CD and do some additional research prior to attempting a flush.

Final note: even on my bench, I wasn't able to get that damn coupling to open. I wanted to be able to pull the dust cap off the line. I ended up slicing the dust cap, putting it in place on the new line, wrapping a tie wrap around it, and brushing some liquid electrical tape on the cut.

So that is it. Unless I get some questions, I'll consider this thread closed out.
Thanks again to Eric and Frank.
 
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