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I have a leaky hose It's the one that comes off the pump takes 180 and then seems to dead end and one have a oert number also I'm trying it myself any insight would be great
I replaced these hoses on my SL65 so your SL600 would be very similar if not exactly the same.

Insight .. It is not an easy job. Not just a couple of hours relaxing in your garage tinkering with the car. Do some searching on the pump replacement on V12 cars. Check out the link below to get you started.

ABC hose repair - MBWorld.org Forums
 

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Ok j see there's a duel one so can u undo the lines as I think they share same bang bolt or is lifting the motor required also do u need to unbolt the pump and km thinking I'm going to take bolt lines to a hydraulic shop and custom make them any insight on valve block cleaning thanx this is very helpfull
 

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I didnt unbolt the pump. Yes, two hoses stacked with one banjo bolt.

As far as the valve block goes do a search. lots of info on the subject.
Personally, I would replace it with a new updated unit.
 

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Wow thanks for all the help so that was a no to unbolt ing and jacking up the motor also on the banjo bolt do the orings stay put upon removal or fall out also how many orings or seals on or between the banjo bolt
 

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I heard a lot of diyers have rebuilt them with good luck better than 3k bill seems it's just cleaning with orings possible stretching the return spring maybe 25 to rebuild both oring are very cheap
 

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Yes to raising the engine. I was able to remove the hose without lifting but to reinstall the new hose I had to lift it up for room. To do it again I would just lift he engine from the start. Its not as bad as it sounds. One motor mount bolt and jack up.

New o rings come with the new hose. they stay in place pretty well. I took that picture above to confirm they were there before I tightened.

Good luck
 

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Did u have to disconected anything to lift it also how many seals or orings on the bang bolt I'm guessing 3 one on the pump one between the hoses and one at the end I plan to replace both may have them made at a hydraulic hose place
 

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Did not have to disconnect anything on the engine to lift. Just be careful.
O rings are part number 028-997-65-48. I purchased a bunch of them from oediscountparts.com I dont remember how many were in there. Ended up not needing them as the new hose came with them.

FWIW I took my expansion hose to two different hydraulic shops. Both of them told me the hose could not be repaired. Also the hose is kind of spooky with rubber parts and connectors with seemingly no reason for them. But Im sure there is. I went with a new OEM hose part number 230-320-93-53. Glad I did as the new hose is an updated version and is much more robust than the old one.
 

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In need of help changed the 2 fron high pressure hoses on 04 dl600 put all back together spun the pump by hand until it came out the first conection the sound a while more now it's all back to get her and the pump work everytime I raise and lower but it's very bounces no warning lights but I can bounce it by hand while on or off unsure what to do
 

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I would preform a rodeo to remove air from the system. That will remove the air as well as test the pump pressure.

Someone more experienced may chime in. Hydraulic fluid is non compressible.
Air is. If you have air trapped in your system that would explain your problem.

The simple up and down may not remove all the air.
 

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Can I assume that since the raise and lower buttons work that the pump is properly lubricated the return had fluud asap after start anyway to get the air out and there's no messages on dash but I did notice that if u n open the door or have parking brake on the message u got when it was in gear would be red warning I am not getting those
 

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fp4416

Purchasing star c4 will be renting it out 25$ for 2 weeks deposit required and returned upon working return
hi i was wondering how much that star c4 cost?
also on my 2003 sl, been working on abc system. the rear shocks are so high
and when run it they seem like there locked in that position. any ideas
thanks, crankie frankie fp4416
 

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I paid 1400 but have all cables and got it ready to use on a Panasonic tough book sounds odd did u start the car on jack stands after working on it any messages did u prime the pump prior to starting I hand spun mine before I fired it
 

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Hello,

I had a leaky left rear strut which I recently got replaced with an Arnot and had the ABC fluid completely drained and replaced along with a rodeo to leak out all air. Thought the ABC issues were resolved but after a 1000 or so miles of driving, the blue ABC light came up and so took the car back to my indy. He checked everything and there are no leaks anywhere. Here are the only two things that I have observed and shared with my the mechanic as well:

1) There is from time to time wetness on top of the ABC fluid reservoir that is located in the engine bay. Either he may have overfilled the fluid or whether it is too much pressure that is forcing the fluid to push out somehow. Its not a lot but the top part of the plastic reservoir shows wetness. I have not noticed it after picking the car up from the mechanic the last time. I am keeping a close eye on it.
2) The blue ABC light did appear once before about 4000 miles ago and it was during a hot summer day and I was stuck in a bumper to bumper DC traffic with engine temperature running to its top normal limit. This time coincidentally was a similar situation. I read another post here in the forum and someone in Arizona had noticed a similar issue during hot temperature. Not sure if the heat and also hot engine temperature due to idling in a traffic jam has something to do with it.

The car does sag down on one side if i do not drive it for a week but there is a Mercedes Bulletin that someone had posted in one of the posts that states that the internal bleeding is a normal part of the ABC mechanism so am hoping that is normal.

Please share any thoughts on this.

Thanks,

Paul
 

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I have no personal experience to share but your symptoms could relate to a failed or failing accumulator.



You may or may not have seen this trouble shooting guide. Lots of good information there. As to the sagging over time, that is considered normal and your slippage more on one corner is also covered in the troubleshooting guide.

Good Luck, Bob
 

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Agree with mercy-me. Probably the accumulator located in rear of the left front wheel well. This is normally the 1st to go, as it sees the pressure spikes from the pump, which put a lot of stress on this part. Most owners will find this one failed when they replace a set (I did).

Start there, then move downstream to the accumulators on the valve blocks front and rear. At this age, it is good to replace them all as preventive maintenance (I did).
 
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