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The Pentosin can is not suppose to last on the shelf for more than 5 years (it has an exp date), and that's in a sealed container... not an active system exposed to elements...
You don't understand, the patient died right after chemo. It isn't the cancer, but chemo that must have killed the patient! So don't do chemo when you get cancer, it will kill you!
 

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You don't understand, the patient died right after chemo. It isn't the cancer, but chemo that must have killed the patient! So don't do chemo when you get cancer, it will kill you!
That's perfect analogy!!!

Moral of story, dont get cancer in the first place, keep the fluid clean...
 

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As for as I know, my 2003 SL has never been changed. That is 12 years. I am choosing to leave mine alone.
In your case, I think that is the right call. At this point your options are a) do complete ABC rebuild when it fails on its own b) do a major ABC repair when something fails after fluid change. It is unlikely you can save the pump or valve bodies.

If you offload the car for $7.5K at the first sign of ABC problems you will be ahead if you keep riding it as-is.
 

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That's perfect analogy!!!

Moral of story, dont get cancer in the first place, keep the fluid clean...
I like analogies. I see it a little differently though.

Mr. Jones,

During your check up we found cancer. It's small and that's why you didn't notice any change in your body. It's a slow growth cancer. By that I mean, you could die of old age before it's big enough to do any damage. The bad news is that it could grow quickly. It's happened where people live with this for years and then in a week it overtakes.

We can operate now while the tumor is small. The problem is that the cancer is in your spine and a tricky operation. You could loose the use of your legs. You have to decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
OK, Let's not discuss about cancer.
MB dealer has not schedule to re-check my car, too busy.
What happen if I just put up with the sagging, because every time I start the car in the morning it rise to the normal height.
The ABC is still working flawlessly, how long do you think will it last until it completely fail?
 

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No way to say how long until the next thing goes wrong, could be tomorrow, could be ten years. Since it worked fine before the flush and works fine now, (other than the sag), and it hasn't been very long since the flush, I wouldn't be in a hurry to have the dealer work on it just yet.
Assuming nothing gets worse and there are no leaks, I would drive it and exercise the ride height a little more than usual.
I am kind of curious what your fluid looks like now. If they did a full blown rodeo and flush, the fluid should still look new. Also make sure the fluid levels are correct. Just because they set them at the dealer (hopefully), I think you should recheck it now that its been a week.
All the symptoms of course point to the classic valve block needing rebuild or replace. That being said: Unless something changes for the worse, I would give it a little time and not be in a hurry have the dealer start shot gunning the problem at their prices.
If I were in your position: I would probably do another filter and flush. You can do it at home for a lot less than the $800 the dealer charged you. It wont be as effective as the rodeo, but it would still change out most of the fluid. If you can change the oil on a car, then you can flush that system, its no big deal.
 

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You might want to take a look at this post before you do anything more. It may be difficult to do, but I am confident it got a lot of the 'old' fluid out of the struts after my fluid purge and refill, combined with the replacement of all ballasts and dampeners (preventive only). Maybe the rodeo already got all the old stuff out, but this would be a check.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/2297841-pentosin-chf11s-3.html


Good luck, and I too hope that driving and a lot of raising and lowering might just clear the valve block. IF it doesn't, and you need it rebuilt but don't want to do it yourself, do a search for 'jnash' on this forum. He rebuilds them.
 

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Why I ask what the rationale for the rodeo was is that I think it likely caused the problem. The car was in perfect condition before the fluid change + rodeo, so my question is why the rodeo then?

The rodeo is what caused all the stress on the system and the dislodging of gunk. Not the fluid change! It stands to reason that if a rodeo can dislodge gunk from a valve block, it can also dislodge gunk from elsewhere in the system (like the struts) that that eventually gets lodged in the valve block.

So why the rodeo of a perfectly fine car?
 

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So why the rodeo of a perfectly fine car?
To move the fluid and get the gunk out...

Yes, moving the gunk dynamically may cause the problem, but that doesnt mean keeping the gunk accumulating "statically" so do speak, mean you're safe... it will eventually move under regular operation pressure, and end up messing up the valve...

the bottom line, if you let the fluid get dirty, you're screwed either way...

If sagging already, its too late to worry about the valve... open the system, clean it, or replace damaged valve, and go on with life...
 

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It's just my personal opinion, but if some gunk happened to get lodged somewhere and has managed to stay there for years under normal operation, I would leave sleeping dogs lie and not attempt to dislodge it with a rodeo that applies stress that the system does not usually see under normal operating conditions.

I think simple fluid replacement is relatively safe since no unusual pressures or movements are applied in the process. Rodeos should be reserved for situations where the diagnostic value outweighs the risk. My 2 cents.
 

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Okay it's my turn to jump into the fray. There is no doubt that keeping the fluid clean is the way to keeping the system relatively sound. If your fluid is already dirty, you flush it and end up with a problem as in this case, then as bayhas stated, fix the problem and go on. You will be ahead of the game, clean fluid, a new valve block that works and car that runs great. Living with a car that sags and comes back up would drive me insane. If you can not afford to keep these babies alive, trade it in and buy a Honda. Of course there are alternatives to having a dealer replace the part with a $2000 price tag. My choice would be to get a professionally rebuilt valve block or a good used one. Being able to to the work my self I'm not risking much if lets say the used part didn't work. You will likely save half the cost, even if you had an Independent shop install it. Get it fixed and enjoy the ride!
 

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You guys talking about dirt in the system as if it's an open container !!!
Follow the manufacturer recommendations and stop guessing for crying out loud.
I am just sayin...
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Is the ABC system draining some power from the rear battery when the car is parked overnight? Thanks.
 

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You guys talking about dirt in the system as if it's an open container !!!
Follow the manufacturer recommendations and stop guessing for crying out loud.
I am just sayin...
Cheers.
You ll be surprised

The system self generates the gunk, due grinding in the pump, grinding in the shocks, broken down and oxidized fluid... Even if the system is 100% sealed...

On top of that, a dirty container, funnel, reservoir brim, lines... Etc can introduce sand and dirt in the system when being services and opened...
 

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I have finished changing almost all ABC elements in my car last week, that included, all lines, all accumulators, all valve blocks, pulsation damper, pump, struts. I still have some things to be done before I put the wheels on the ground.

In my opinion there are several areas of weakness:

- Valve seals both round and square ones, they tend to get twisted and slouphed if old and fatigued.

- Accumulators also can get the inner diaphragm torn

- Pump seals and springs could get broken and damaged, lines could leak and blow.

- Struts could leak and will need to be replaced.

From my experience, I think this has little to do with flush, it is mainly aging and fatigue of rubber and flexible parts. If you want to enjoy your SL, buy a low mileage recently built one, or simply replace/rebuild(if possible) them preventively and enjoy a car that runs like new.
 

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