[Stutz]

I have been away for a while since my SEC was in for a transmission build. New bands, clutches, seals, o rings and discs. Well picked it up and started driving it (first time reaaly since purchase) and found a bunch of new things to fix. First have to redo the bushings in the dog bones, but the most disappointing thing was finding I need to replace the vacuum heater/ac pods. Today was about 90 so turned on the air, and while it worked when sitting it would not cool when driving especially down the freeway. You guessed it I think the fresh air flap is open. The center vent does not work either so...... My decision is to figure out if I try to replace these without removing the dash or wait til winter and take it out that way. Boy by the time I am done it will be an almost new car. Remember already, new timing chain and bits, new vacuumn lines, new injector seals, new valve seals, and all new front end parts. However, the car has good "bones" in that there is no rust and is in excellant cosmetc shape. I guess I could have found a car without some of these issues, but I would say all cars this old will eventually have most of these problems and I might as well deal with them now. Yes I did replace all the fuel lines as well.

Two questions though 1) After its warm and you shut it off for like 10 minutes, then restart it, it will stumble for like 10 seconds where you think it will die. Runs well otherwise. Could this be the IAC issue or would it be a fuel issue?

2). Can you shut the outdoor air flap by disconnecting the vacuum pod until there is time to fix it.

 

[liviu165]

1) How is your start when the engine is cold? When warm if you turn on then off after few seconds and repeat the cycle few times, does it help? You may need to measure your fuel pressure in the line after the 10 minutes period, it sounds to me like you are lacking fuel pressure at the beginning, then it slowly builds up.

2) Sorry, not possible. When the fresh air pods are not energized, the fresh air flap is already fully open. Either you leave them alone or disconnect them, the door stays open.

EDIT: To replace the vacuum pods you don't need to take the dash off. Here is an excellent thread: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4448

 

[Stutz]

The car starts fine when cold and usually if you start it right after you shut it off its ok. I will try it multiple times today to better define the issue. Could it be the fuel accumulator? I have changed the filter but did not change that. I will also try to clean the ICV this weekend.

This weekend, the dog bones, then new tires and finally an alignment. After lowering it with H&R springs I have some rubbing issues on the fenders. I either have to decrease the rim size or go to a narrower tire. See one thing leads to another. The tires are 245x 40rx 18. I am also thinking of bilstein B-8 shocks. I think the car would do better with a stiffer shock since the car has quite a bit of roll compared to my r129. I know completely different cars! On another note, the Woodward Dream cruise is in a week and I hope to have it ready so I can show it off. Stop and go traffic on a hot day brings up many of the faults on older cars and you better be ready for that.
If you never have seen the Detroit Woodward gala everyone should see it at least once. When it first started many of the cars would race between stoplights, Almost like back in the 60's. Of course it was unsafe and they clamped down after the first few years but it sure was nice to see it. At one point one year I saw my 12 year old daughter who was standing on the curb next to the light telling the driver of a Boss 429 Mustang which was stopped since the light was red to "light them up". He did and the smile on her face stays with me today... You would not believe the Detroit hardware people have squirreled away.

Thanks for your input.

 

[liviu165]

If it would be me I would monitor the fuel pressure before the FD to see how well is holding. I am suspecting in your case it does not hold very well. By switching on and off few times before restarting the engine, your pumps would increase the pressure and that should help and also indicate a pressure problem. Could be other things too, that are more specific to your car (FD, fuel injectors), but unless you have a gauge to tell you what happens, you are mostly guessing. I heard HFT has a decent testing set with all the adapters needed, but I can't confirm because I never bought one. Perhaps another member here can advise if the set is worth the money (IIRC is below $100) and which one it is.

 

[luckymike]

I own the HF kit. It's this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...tured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=injection+tester

I've been happy with it though to make it work properly, I had to remove the Schrader valves at each connection. I feel it was well worth the money.

 

[John350]

I think the car would do better with a stiffer shock since the car has quite a bit of roll compared to my r129.

The way to reduce body roll in corners is with a stiffer rear sway bar. Stiffer shocks will slow the roll rate, but not limit the degree.

 

[Stutz]

I do have the larger sway bar. I purchased it as a group thing. The trouble is I have been comparing the ride and performance of a 99 R129 to the SEC and I want to take some of the good things from that and transplant them into the SEC. Like the 13" Brembo brakes��������

 

[Stutz]

On the pods, today I ordered the set from OEPartsdirect, which is an online Mercedes dealer and they found one of these NLA. The number on that one is 0008004075, which is the air scoop pod. I am sure I can source it from Pelican or Autohausz but the point I would make is that while Mercedes is great on supplying parts for a 30 year old car, over time those parts are going to get less and less available. So, my advice is if you are going to keep the car, and even if the part is still good, I would think about changing the most common things before you can"t get stuff. I know a lot of people go by the mantra if it "aint broke don't fix it" but that could be a tough choice at a later date. Its not an easy call.

 

[John350]

Isn't it (still) possible to just replace the diaphragms in the pods?

 

[Stutz]

Yes you can, but with the state of the plastic on other things I chose to buy new pods. I think the total bill was $260. I will save the old ones in case others need a shell. I hope this is the last of the major surprises. The transmission was a big one. But then my guess is that almost all 30 year old units are close to needing work. Those o rings are just hard crusty has beens

 

[GreenT]

Performance Analysis | Climate Control | Diaphragms | Blower Motors | Pushbutton Panels | Vacuum Door Locks | Autotemp | Cruise Control | Engine Oil Analysis | Mercedes-Benz Parts | Mercedes-Benz Club of America | Oak Ridge | Car Care - ACC Version I

 

[Stutz]

Well I did five of the pods in the last two days and it is not for the faint of heart. It helps if you have small hands which I don't. However you do not need to take out the dash and Jerrys write up is excellant. Only thing I would add is, my car has a glove box and you simply have to take out the inside box and work through that. You do that by popping the center of the plastic insert pins, then taking the barrels out. I only have the driver side foot rest one to do and while the write up says its easy, I disagree. I can barely see that sucker!! What is important though is that out of the five I have replaced 3 were defective and I am sure replacing these will make a big improvement. This pod replacement is just another indication of no matter how low the miles are, or pristine you think things are, age is working against some things especially plastic and rubber. So you should simply plan on doing some of thes jobs if they have not been done. It also affirms my way of doing things when you have something apart for something else you might as well bite the bullet and do those things you know are subject to failure. I now have had the console out twice which has been a pain. Once for shifter linkages and radio work, and now for the pods. I should have ordered the pods and done in the first time but I was in ahurry to drive the thing. And I am paying for extra work in lost time by me. Soon I think I will have most of the things done that go bad so I think I will be good for a while but I suggest you look at my spreadsheet of parts to understand the magnitude of what you can expect. It will give you a good idea of the issues these cars face. I still have to fix a presenter and some other small odds and ends but with fall coming and then winter I have time on my hands. Hopefuly the tough things are done. Did I say rear wheel bearings!!! In closing, If you have not done those things I mention if you keep driving I bet you will.

 

[Stutz]

I id the last pod today and it was the worst. This is the one by the drivers side gas pedal. The pod is tucked in tightly and you are on your back under the steering wheel. There is no room to get it out either. So what I did is use a pair of channel locks to get a grip on it to turn it out. Use a very long screwdriver and pryhe lever off the plasric ferrule. Then I broke the pod in half to get it out. The new one I forced in between the support bar and the heater box. It just fit. Pods are in but I have another day of reassembly to do. I will do that when I am fresh. Thanks for the input and especially the write up by Gerry

 

[nehuge]

For you doing the pods in the future, their availability is falling fast. Below is how I got creative with what pods were still available new and which ones weren't available and I had to either buy a different new one that wasn't the right one for that specific purpose, but by doing so cannibalize its parts into my current one or to use a diaphragm rebuild kit.

Since I didn't want to buy and install the Performance Analysis rubber diaphragms inside my existing pods unless I absolutely had to, I tried to see how I could buy as many new factory pods as I could and found out that you have to get creative. That being, not always using the Mercedes brand of number in your search, but sometimes the Behr and/or Hella brand in your search words. You can also buy a known available pod and sometimes cannibalize its innards into other pods, and vice versa. Since I have bought some, I'm not sure if the places I did find them has any more; I'm just indicating where I did get them from during the last two weeks.

From left to right, let's call it pod #1 through #6:

#1 Diverter pod by gas pedal (single nozzle and diaphragm). Green vacuum line goes to it, and other end goes to spot #6 on the Y7 tree
PN:
Mercedes: 0008004075
Hella/Behr: unknown
Alternatives: 1) Use Performance Analysis diaphragms, OR 2) If you can buy a 0008006775, remove its diaphragm, and remove its arm by drilling out rivet. Remove rivet and arm from the old 0008004075, and re-rivet it onto the 0008006775's diaphragm and put it back into the 0008004075 housing. Reason being, the 0008006775's housing has the three "pegs" that push into the dash, and the 0008004075 has three "tabs". OR 3) If you can buy a 0008004375, 0008005775, or 0008005875 you can remove their respective lower diaphragms and put it into the 0008004075, and unsnap their arms and rivet the 0008004075's arm to it or use a small screw and nut or cotter.

#2 Footwell pod behind radio (black square). Red with yellow/orange stripe vacuum line goes to it, and other end goes to spot #3 on the Y7 tree
PN:
Mercedes: 1268001475
Hella/Behr: 351329391
Alternatives: 1) None, since square, use only new pods. I bought from mbpartscenter.com using the 1268001475 Mercedes part number

#3 Hot air flap pod, behind radio (single nozzle and diaphragm). Red with black strip vaccum line goes to it, and the other end goes to spot #4 on the Y7 tree
PN:
Mercedes: 0008006775
Hella/Behr: 351329181
Alternatives: 1) Use Performance Analysis diaphragms, OR 2) I bought from euroimportparts.com using the Hella/Behr 351329181 part number OR 3) If you could buy a 0008004075, you can drill out the rivet, remove the arm, and re-rivet the 0008006775's arm to it and reinstall both diaphragm and arm attached back into the 0008006775 OR 4) If you can buy a 0008004375, 0008005775, or 0008005875 you can remove their respective lower diaphragms and put it into the 0008006775, and unsnap their arms and rivet the 0008006775's arm to it or use a small screw and nut or cotter. OR 5) Maybe use parts from W124 pods, but I have yet to compile this as I haven't dug into my W124 dash yet. I'm figuring you can as the Performance Analysis diaphragms (the 2010's) are called out for both W124 and W126.

#4 Defroster pod, up to the right of console (double nozzle and diaphragms). Red with white stripe vacuum line goes to the top or outermost nozzle . The other end goes to spot #5 on the Y7 tree. Red with blue strip vacuum line goes to the bottom or nozzle closest to the arm. The other end goes to spot #7 on the Y7 tree
PN:
Mercedes: 0008004375
Hella/Behr: 351329241
Alternatives: 1) Use Performance Analysis diaphragms, OR 2) I bought from mercedespartscenter.com using Mercedes part number OR, also on Ebay and Autohaus OR 3) If you could buy a 0008005775 or 0008005875 you can transfer the arm (which just snaps on) to the 0008004375. However, you need to note the orientation of both sets of pink housings relative to the black housing. Make them match how the 0008004375 is or the nozzles will face the wrong direction upon snapping the housing all back together OR 4) If you can buy a 0008006775 you can remove its lower diaphragm and put it into the 0008004375, and unrivet its arm and rivet the 0008006775's arm to it or use a small screw and nut or cotter. This doesn't address the top diaphragm however. OR 5) Maybe use parts from W124 pods, but I have yet to compile this as I haven't dug into my W124 dash yet. I'm figuring you can as the Performance Analysis diaphragms (the 2010's) are called out for both W124 and W126.

#5 Main flap left pod, behind glove box, second from the right from outside of car (double nozzle and diaphragms) Green with blue stripe vacuum line goes to the top or the outermost nozzle by way of a rubber "Y" fitting. The other half of the "Y" fitting continues on to Pod #6 (see #6 below). The other end goes to spot #2 on the Y7 tree (shares with pod #6). Dark red vacuum line goes to the bottom or nozzle closest to the arm by way of a rubber "Y" fitting. The other half of the "Y" fitting continues on to Pod #6 (see #6 below). The other end goes to spot #1 on the Y7 tree (shares with pod #6).
PN:
Mercedes: 0008005875
Hella/Behr: unknown
Alternatives: 1) Use Performance Analysis diaphragms, OR 2) I bought one on Amazon, and I think Europarts.com may have it also, OR 3) If you can buy a 0008005775 or 0008004375, you can put the 0008005875's arm onto either of them. However, you need to note the orientation of both sets of pink housings relative to the black housing. Make them match how the 0008005875 is or the nozzles will face the wrong direction upon snapping the housing all back together OR 4) If you can buy a 0008006775 you can remove its lower diaphragm and put it into the 0008005875, and unrivet its arm and rivet the 0008005875's arm to it or use a small screw and nut or cotter. This doesn't address the top diaphragm however. OR 5) Maybe use parts from W124 pods, but I have yet to compile this as I haven't dug into my W124 dash yet. I'm figuring you can as the Performance Analysis diaphragms (the 2010's) are called out for both W124 and W126.

#6 Main flap right pod, behind glove box, farthest right pod in the car (double nozzle and diaphragms). Green with blue stripe vacuum line goes to the top or the outermost nozzle by way of a rubber "Y" fitting. The other half of the "Y" continues on to Pod #5 (see #5 above). The other end goes to spot #2 on the Y7 tree (shares with pod #5). Dark red vacuum line goes to the bottom or nozzle closest to the arm by way of a rubber "Y" fitting. The other half of the "Y" fitting continues on to Pod #5 (see #5 above). The other end goes to spot #1 on the Y7 tree (shares with pod #5).
PN:
Mercedes: 0008005775
Hella/Behr: 351329271 for Hella and W01331619776BEH for Behr
Alternatives: 1) Use Performance Analysis diaphragms, OR 2) I bought one from mbpartscenter.com and I think Ebay had them too under the Behr W01331619776BEH OR 3) If you can buy a 0008005875 or 0008004375, you can put the 0008005775's arm onto either of them. However, you need to note the orientation of both sets of pink housings relative to the black housing. Make them match how the 0008005775 is or the nozzles will face the wrong direction upon snapping the housing all back together OR 4) If you can buy a 0008006775 you can remove its lower diaphragm and put it into the 0008005775, and unrivet its arm and rivet the 0008005775's arm to it or use a small screw and nut or cotter. This doesn't address the top diaphragm however. OR 5) Maybe use parts from W124 pods, but I have yet to compile this as I haven't dug into my W124 dash yet. I'm figuring you can as the Performance Analysis diaphragms (the 2010's) are called out for both W124 and W126.

Hopefully between using new diaphragms, or tweaking the 2 or 3 other pods still available to buy, or the same concept but using W124 pods, you can piece them together to make something work.