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'85 380SL, '99 SL500, '03 SL500, '91 Alfa Spider, '06 Porsche 911 C2S
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks again, it is now becoming a LITTLE clearer :ROFLMAO: ha..ha...

*Just on the fiber optic looping, did you not need to loop the fiber plug going to the navigation module in the boot too (as well as: CD Changer, Cell Phone, Voice Control)?
Must be a way to trick the other Fiber components into starting up :unsure:

After thinking about the yellow wires AND reading between the lines on what you are saying:
View attachment 2710614

WHITE: go together (The white wire from CAN BUS must need to go to something, there are no other plugs)
GREY: are not used (you already confirmed the wire on the RIGHT is not used, and similar to the 'Aux-LIn and Aux-Rin on the Seicane' side the one on the left is prob for another axillary input)

Agree? :)
Yes, that’s exactly it! The CANBUS decoder is what that white wire is going to (the box on the bottom).

I don’t know of the navigation unit in the trunk - is that on the fibre loop? I can quite clearly see where my lines are going and it looks like I now have a pretty clean loop with nothing but the head unit and amp.
 

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Yes, that’s exactly it! The CANBUS decoder is what that white wire is going to (the box on the bottom).

I don’t know of the navigation unit in the trunk - is that on the fibre loop? I can quite clearly see where my lines are going and it looks like I now have a pretty clean loop with nothing but the head unit and amp.

If you skip to 11:30 in this video it talks about the fiber connections for navigation (same guy from the video you posted):

 

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Yes, that’s exactly it! The CANBUS decoder is what that white wire is going to (the box on the bottom).

I don’t know of the navigation unit in the trunk - is that on the fibre loop? I can quite clearly see where my lines are going and it looks like I now have a pretty clean loop with nothing but the head unit and amp.
Just out of interest did the original head unit you replaced in your 2003 SL500 look the same as my 2003 SL55 (below)?:

2710629
 

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'85 380SL, '99 SL500, '03 SL500, '91 Alfa Spider, '06 Porsche 911 C2S
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If you skip to 11:30 in this video it talks about the fiber connections for navigation (same guy from the video you posted):

I believe this is because his car is later and has the MOST fibre optics - the loop is probably different from our d2b cars.

Also, I have found that if you get creative you actually don't need any of the d2b couplers. Today I removed a lot of wiring and couplers so that I have a single loop from the head unit to the amp with only one coupler. This was accomplished by disassembling the head on the amp connection and removing all wiring from the loop back to the head unit coupler behind the center storage console. It's hard to explain but I may draw a diagram to help if you'd like - it makes more sense once you've messed with the fibre and understand the connections.

And to answer your other post, yes that is the same head unit that my car had in it.

I took pictures of the units that need to be unplugged from the fibre:

1. This is the cell phone module mounted to the right of the amplifier. The fibre optic connector is behind and below where you see the green connector in the photo.
2710702



2. This is the voice control module, it is the unit with the silver sticker and Mercedes Benz logo. The fibre optic connector is to the right of the power cable and gold antenna connector seen below.

2710703


I hope this helps!
 

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I believe this is because his car is later and has the MOST fibre optics - the loop is probably different from our d2b cars.

Also, I have found that if you get creative you actually don't need any of the d2b couplers. Today I removed a lot of wiring and couplers so that I have a single loop from the head unit to the amp with only one coupler. This was accomplished by disassembling the head on the amp connection and removing all wiring from the loop back to the head unit coupler behind the center storage console. It's hard to explain but I may draw a diagram to help if you'd like - it makes more sense once you've messed with the fibre and understand the connections.

And to answer your other post, yes that is the same head unit that my car had in it.

I took pictures of the units that need to be unplugged from the fibre:

1. This is the cell phone module mounted to the right of the amplifier. The fibre optic connector is behind and below where you see the green connector in the photo.
View attachment 2710702


2. This is the voice control module, it is the unit with the silver sticker and Mercedes Benz logo. The fibre optic connector is to the right of the power cable and gold antenna connector seen below.

View attachment 2710703

I hope this helps!
Thanks Lawrence 😊

Those photo's will help me identify the modules, does either of the modules (Phone, Voice or CD Changer), need to be removed or is it easy enough to unplug the Fibre plugs while the modules are still in position?

Thats great not needing d2b connectors as I couldn't get them online, was going to try MB tomorrow. Think I am with you on removing the fibre plugs and making one loop between head unit and Amp. Couple of Qs:
1) Do I really need to unplug all D2B plugs if I go down this route. I was thinking if the loop goes from HeadUnit>Amp and HeadUnit>CdChanger (with Voice and Phone in-between) then I would just need to intercept these two plugs to make one loop between HeadUnit><Amp?
2) Maybe a diagram would help with Q1 😊
3) Can I ask why you decided to take your car to bits again, where you having trouble with sound?

Regards
Kevin
 

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The way I read the WIS, you shouldn't need to loop any of the components. The wake up signal should wake up all the components on the ring. Even if they are in sleep mode they should act as repeaters. Of course, I'll do whatever it takes to make it work.

2710721


2710722


2710723
 

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Interesting, I will install the D2B converter and take it from there. From what you are saying I should NOT need to loop, but you had issues with sound when you did this?

Looking at that diagram you sent, looks like I would just need to disconnect 'M5' from the 'Voice Control Module' and connect directly to AMP (if the wire is long enough of course) ;) leaving only head unit and AMP in the loop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The way I read the WIS, you shouldn't need to loop any of the components. The wake up signal should wake up all the components on the ring. Even if they are in sleep mode they should act as repeaters. Of course, I'll do whatever it takes to make it work.

View attachment 2710721

View attachment 2710722

View attachment 2710723
That's interesting, and the way I expected it to work. Unfortunately, although I could hear the system attempting to wake up with the "wake up" cable installed, there was no sound. The only way I could get sound (with all other components plugged in) was to disconnect and reconnect the loop 3-5 times. I don't know why this worked, but it caused some sort of forced wake up.

After I disconnected and coupled all of the other units in the loop, the sound came on flawlessly and immediately. I went a step further yesterday and actually removed most of the loop, so that I have nothing else but the head unit and amplifier. I did this because one of the fibre heads was damaged and causing sound issues, so I eliminated it.

You can definitely have a go at installing without removal of the other components, as that would certainly make life a little easier, but this was the only way I could get sound to work with this converter.
 

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That's interesting, and the way I expected it to work. Unfortunately, although I could hear the system attempting to wake up with the "wake up" cable installed, there was no sound. The only way I could get sound (with all other components plugged in) was to disconnect and reconnect the loop 3-5 times. I don't know why this worked, but it caused some sort of forced wake up.

After I disconnected and coupled all of the other units in the loop, the sound came on flawlessly and immediately. I went a step further yesterday and actually removed most of the loop, so that I have nothing else but the head unit and amplifier. I did this because one of the fibre heads was damaged and causing sound issues, so I eliminated it.

You can definitely have a go at installing without removal of the other components, as that would certainly make life a little easier, but this was the only way I could get sound to work with this converter.
Hi 😊

Well.....today I installed the stereo with the D2B converter in place, but NO sound! Just kept hearing that 'click click' noise you were talking about where the 'Wake' was trying to happen but kept failing.

So....I phoned around a couple of dealers and managed to track down a D2B Fibre Connector 20miles away (only cost £3.50).

Using the Connector I removed everything from the D2B Fibre loop (Was only CD Changer and TEL) leaving only HeadUnit and Amp in loop.
Hey presto....I have sound :p

Just need to install the 'DAB Digital Radio module', 'Wireless reversing camera', 'External DVR', and then put everything back together but thats for another day.

One thing I had to do when installing the new unit was to cut off two plastic PINs on the dash, which were stopping the unit from sitting flush (old unit used these to line up, but new unit never had the holes). Highlighted yellow:
2710958
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi 😊

Well.....today I installed the stereo with the D2B converter in place, but NO sound! Just kept hearing that 'click click' noise you were talking about where the 'Wake' was trying to happen but kept failing.

So....I phoned around a couple of dealers and managed to track down a D2B Fibre Connector 20miles away (only cost £3.50).

Using the Connector I removed everything from the D2B Fibre loop (Was only CD Changer and TEL) leaving only HeadUnit and Amp in loop.
Hey presto....I have sound :p

Just need to install the 'DAB Digital Radio module', 'Wireless reversing camera', 'External DVR', and then put everything back together but thats for another day.

One thing I had to do when installing the new unit was to cut off two plastic PINs on the dash, which were stopping the unit from sitting flush (old unit used these to line up, but new unit never had the holes). Highlighted yellow:
View attachment 2710958
Brilliant! Glad to hear you got it working. It’s very strange that the wake-up signal doesn’t seem to do anything, but I’m glad that I figured to bypass the other components or else I would have just given up.

Very well said about the tabs - for the life of me I couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t slide in all the way, I kept pulling it out and re-arranging the wiring behind the unit thinking that was the issue.

Do double check that you don’t have the voice control module, the connector isn’t immediately apparent and at first glance it looks like the fibre runs right past.
 

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Brilliant! Glad to hear you got it working. It’s very strange that the wake-up signal doesn’t seem to do anything, but I’m glad that I figured to bypass the other components or else I would have just given up.

Very well said about the tabs - for the life of me I couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t slide in all the way, I kept pulling it out and re-arranging the wiring behind the unit thinking that was the issue.

Do double check that you don’t have the voice control module, the connector isn’t immediately apparent and at first glance it looks like the fibre runs right past.

Per photo below I only have 3x Fibre plugs then it goes back towards the HeadUnit:

2710981


I was thinking about leaving the 'Multi CD' out of the car, will give me more space for junk :giggle:

Will let you know how I get on with the other addons, as well as the stereo itself as not had a chance to play about with it as yet.

I was impressed with the sound though, sounded like the original HeadUnit and all the speakers were working 💪
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Per photo below I only have 3x Fibre plugs then it goes back towards the HeadUnit:

View attachment 2710981

I was thinking about leaving the 'Multi CD' out of the car, will give me more space for junk :giggle:

Will let you know how I get on with the other addons, as well as the stereo itself as not had a chance to play about with it as yet.

I was impressed with the sound though, sounded like the original HeadUnit and all the speakers were working 💪
Ah nice, looks like you're all clear! And the sound is magnificent, thank god that these converters finally exist. I left my CD changer out and it definitely frees up space in the compartment... just can't put anything in that can fall through the new hole in the bottom!
 

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I am making good process on my own install on a 2004 SL600. I have removed the CD Changer and disconnected all the car-phone stuff. I have a Double-DIN adapter for a 2005 R230 and will cut my 2004 trim piece to fit. I have the Seicane D2B converter. I bought two "cheap" headunits from Amazon, each optimized for Apple CarPlay, one even does wireless CarPlay.
I now have only the amp and the headunit on the fiber loop.
QUESTION: I am confused how to implement a microphone for hands-free phone calls? Do these cars have a microphone built in? If yes, how do I connect to it? I added CarPlay to a BMW and the kit came with a mic although I was able to use the built-in mic.

Thank you for this excellent thread!
 

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I am making good process on my own install on a 2004 SL600. I have removed the CD Changer and disconnected all the car-phone stuff. I have a Double-DIN adapter for a 2005 R230 and will cut my 2004 trim piece to fit. I have the Seicane D2B converter. I bought two "cheap" headunits from Amazon, each optimized for Apple CarPlay, one even does wireless CarPlay.
I now have only the amp and the headunit on the fiber loop.
QUESTION: I am confused how to implement a microphone for hands-free phone calls? Do these cars have a microphone built in? If yes, how do I connect to it? I added CarPlay to a BMW and the kit came with a mic although I was able to use the built-in mic.

Thank you for this excellent thread!
Hi, does your new head unit not have a built in mic?

It is very unlikely your aftermarket headunit will work with the cars original mic. I am guessing the headunit doesn't have a standard mic jack on the back?
If not there must be an addon mic suited to your headunit that you could buy from the manufacturer.

Regards
Kev
 

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Thanks again Carse for your assistance.
Both of my new headunits have Mic inputs in the back and one of them came with a mic. I have now also discovered that my car has the optional "Voice Control System" which includes two modules behind the console box - a plastic module "A 203 820 08 85" and under it a metal module "A203 820 40 85". The latter has a small shielded cable connector, and I assume that is the mic. I will hook it up to a scope and see if it has typical mic characteristics. If yes, it might work.
Are you saying that some headunits has a mic built into the front of it? That would be convenient.

EDIT: I decided to mount the supplied microphone in an innocuous place - where the left A-pillar comes to the dash - and run the cable from the easy-to-remove side panel on the dash to the center area.
At this point I have no further questions. Thank you.
 

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I know there are countless head unit install threads, but given that it seems to be completely new I figured this deserved its own thread. I recently purchased an '03 SL500, and absolutely adore the car, but the first order of business for me was to do away with the factory Comand system for something more modern.

I opted for the Seicane, which I ordered through AliExpress and got a great deal. The trouble was that they didn't send me the 6M cable, so I had to wait a couple of weeks for a second order to turn up. Once it did, it turned out that Seicane had shipped me the wrong cable and gave me the run-around and only solution of "order another".

I wasn't in the mood to throw any more money at Seicane, so I did some digging and planned on replacing the amplifier (the seemingly easy solution), but then I came across something which is not supposed to exist: a D2b converter on Youtube with a link to Amazon to purchase it (for ~$330).

I ordered it, it turned up the night before last, and with a lot of messing about for the past couple of days, I sort-of managed to get it working. The box looks similar to a MOST-HUR adapter I purchased for a head unit install in my '06 911, with an input for the D2b connector and a few cables going out (ACC+, Ground, Batt 12v, and D2b Wake).

I wired the ACC+ and Ground off the cigarette lighter, and pulled the Battery 12v from the Seicane cables. The D2b wake took some research but I managed to pull it from Pin 10 on the Canbus adapter on the back of the head unit (you can hear it "click" on the amplifier when the head unit comes on).

View attachment 2705508

The first trouble I ran into, which took some troubleshooting with the original head unit going back in a couple of times, was that my car was equipped with a CD Changer, and given that it isn't powered by the Seicane, needs to be removed from the fibre optic loop. I purchased MB part # 000-545-33-84, which connects the two ends of the D2b plug together (this is accomplished by removing the fibre ends from the plug). I also did this with the factory phone, though I don't think it's necessary.

View attachment 2705507

Now the strangest thing is that the system works - but takes a very odd work-around to get audio going. I'm hoping that someone here can offer some insight, as I've hit a wall in terms of troubleshooting. To get audio to start playing I am having to disconnect and reconnect the fibre optics elsewhere in the loop - whether at the CD Changer bypass or the phone. There is no audio on initial start (though I can hear the amp kicking in from the D2b wake cable). I have to unplug and re-attached one of the D2b plugs several times (~5) and the sound will kick in, almost like a forced wake-up. The fibre channel is working from start up though - the D2b converter box is lit up all the way to the amp and there is audible feedback when the fibre is removed.

When the audio is coming through, it's brilliant, and lovely to have the factory Bose amp and speakers. Hoping someone can help and offer their thoughts!

Here are some photos of the unit:

View attachment 2705509
View attachment 2705510
This is awesome.. Thank you! I just bought the Seicane unit for my 2004 SL500. and I have this decoder as well. My only question is did you just plug the left and right in to the Front L&R from the head unit?

Well, ok another question, How did you disconnect the factory phone? That is not covered in their instructions so I am happy to learn from your experience getting this to work.
 

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I have successfully gotten wireless CarPlay working in my 2004 SL600 with steering wheel volume controls. And it works and looks great!
The headunit is a "LeadSign CT-6200 Double Din Car Stereo" from Amazon for $179 delivered overnight. It supports Wireless CarPlay and came with an external microphone which I mounted at the bottom of my A-pillar.
I also bought and first tried a "Sjoybring" headunit from Amazon, but I could not get Wireless Carplay nor the steering wheel volume controls to work.
Of course the most critical component is the D2B converter which I bought from Seicane for about $120 with shipping; it took about 3 weeks to arrive, likely to due to slow USPS delivery.
Also from Amazon was the "Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface" for $60.
For the bezel I bought from Amazon the "Scosche MZ2351B Compatible with 2005-12 Mercedes Benz SL" for $90. I simply cut my 2004 console bezel to fit. (Purposely left the headunit bezel screws accessible; will make rubber covers later.)
I bought but did not need any of the mentioned MB fiber cable connectors; possibly because my car had the "Voice Control" module installed which used those fiber connectors.
So, this can be duplicated for about $450. And have a wide choice of head units.
Car Light Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part
 

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Did the wood not form a ring up and around your original radio? Did you cut it at the base where the new unit and cup holders meet?
 

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Yes in 2003/2004 the wood trim forms a ring around the COMAND unit. I cut it to fit. (It took several cuts and trims.)
It would strong suggest using a cutoff tool to make a clean cut through the multiple layers.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Tread Wood
 

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Actually I think it was earlier in this thread or maybe a different radio thread, I posted of doing the opposite: Take a complete ring console and installing it in an '05 SL so the Seicane radio, which is only made for '03-04, would fit. They don't make the Seicane for '05 models.So I would have an '05 SL with an '04 wood console trim.
 
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