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1999 E300 Turbodiesel totalled and now 2005 E320CDI and now a 2015 E250 Blutec
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Discussion Starter #1
I've gone thru the codes and about three months ago replaced the duovalve (finally) purchased from Phil for 254. Subsequently, I was directed to a yard in Tennessee and purchased a used, but fully functioning, climate control panel for 250. The keys were purchased from MB for 8 bucks (although the dealer a few miles north on Rt 19 wanted 12.50.
A/C working fine. Last Sunday it started the delay of blowing cold air as the car sat in the sun all afternoon but after a little less than five minutes the fan kicked on and blasted cold air. This same condition although with less time delay (120 secs after driving off) continued all week. The car sat in the sun all day Saturday and no the fan would not turn on at all. Same condition today. Fiddled around with ec but still no fan coming on. Compressor is engaging and in ec mode cold air will feebly exit vents. Any ideas? I reset the P2 from 136 to 152 and no help and now I think it may be too high. Other diagnostics were as follows:
1 87
2 105
3 94
4 93
5134
6 185
7 15
8 134
Error codes were 1234, 1235, and 1419 (which I couldn't even find on the list)

A gauge on low pressure side reads in the good zone. If a sensor is involved, where is it and how to access. As of yet haven't been able to find the thread with any good description.

This whole forum was excellent as I was able to install the copper crush washers and O-rings in the delivery valve rack. Replaced the fuel lines and used Viton O-rings too. Car runs well but really need the a/c as it's getting warmer here in Florida.

Been getting 26 to 27+ mpg on Hess and Sunoco diesel which today was 4.23 a gallon. Anyway, awaiting someone's helpful response, Rick
 

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1996 210.020
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136 -> 152 is correct. That sets the appropriate bit.

B1234 - Sun Sensor (B32)
B1235 - Emissions Sensor (B31)
B1419 - Electromagnetic Clutch (A9k1)

Ignore the first two and focus on B1419. I can't see why you would get that code when your compressor is running.

For the fan, do you mean the cabin fan? If so, this could be a bad regulator, or a bad pushbutton module.
 

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1999 E300 Turbodiesel totalled and now 2005 E320CDI and now a 2015 E250 Blutec
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93 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Matt, I know the compressor is running when auto is pushed and shuts down on e/c. No fan pushing the air in either mode. I never did find the explanation anywhere for 1419. I guess you're thinking the blower motor regulator. Where would it be anyway -- yes, I meant the cabin fan which blows air (it blows none at all) thru the nozzles -- only passively forced air (and can be cold) in e/c mode. Thanks, Rick
 

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1996 210.020
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B1419 is listed in the diagnostic manual. Something is odd with that, since your clutch would seem to be working fine. Go ahead and clear the codes, if you haven't done so.

Check current-sensor value #10 for the blower control voltage, and ensure that the pushbutton unit thinks that there is demand. You could then measure the voltage at the input to the regulator to see if it is there before the blower starts. If there is voltage at the input and the fan is not running, the problem lies in the motor, the regulator, or the wiring.
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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Run

these and post the values
How to Diagnose Air Conditioning Malfunctions | EclassBenz.com
stop messing with p2 values until the proper values for sensors and errors are ran.
Note value #5 of 134 f rhta is a range for the evaptemp sensor that is way out of range.should read about 40f.It is throwing a non plausible reading to shut down the compressor to prevent freezing up the evaporator.Enter the values and errors write down whay thay tell you.Replace the evap temp sensor about 37 bucks at autohausaz.com clear the errors and you should be operating as normal.
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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6,019 Posts
Run

these and post the values
How to Diagnose Air Conditioning Malfunctions | EclassBenz.com
stop messing with p2 values until the proper values for sensors and errors are ran.
Note value #5 of 134 f is a range for the evap temp sensor that is way out of range.should read about 40f.It is throwing a non plausible reading to shut down the compressor to prevent freezing up the evaporator.Enter the values and errors write down what they tell you.Replace the evap temp sensor about 37 bucks at autohausaz.com clear the errors and you should be operating as normal.
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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1999 E300 Turbodiesel totalled and now 2005 E320CDI and now a 2015 E250 Blutec
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93 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so thinking back, my engine was off when I ran the error codes hence the compressor wouldn't be working. Right? Also, when I was running the first set of values the engine was running (for sure) and I recall seeing a six or .6 or close to what I saw on the dx listings for item 10 but I'll check that.

Actually, I went out and checked with engine running and #10 was 3.2 with #11 at 2.3 and #12 at 4.2. Still no fan coming on. I'm inclined to believe it is the blower motor regulator and would like to be pointed in the right direction with pics etc before I start ripping up anything. This site has always been helpful with others reporting their tricks and tips. Thanks, Rick
 

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1999 E300 Turbodiesel totalled and now 2005 E320CDI and now a 2015 E250 Blutec
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Discussion Starter #9
Evaporator Temp Sensor...

Must have been in garage checking value #10 which was 3.2 as reported. I had written down the Evaporator Temp Sonsor as that was one of the sensors mentioned in the diagnostics check (a site which I have saved on this computer and I have the printed sheets in the glove box). Anyway, feeding in the values at the EClass a/c dx site, I got the advice as above and as you have said.

All I need to know now is how to find the best info for installing the evap temp sensor. Anything with pics and tips? Will do a search after this response.

Last June when I got the car, I tried to clean and lube the duovalve but one of the transformer spools had an electric scoring on the metal top -- and diagnostically it was bad. When I replaced that there was still a problem and took a shot upon Phil's advices and purchased the control panel as the old one was "bleeding" LCD on the bottom of the screen. True it's a used one from the guy in Tennnesse (a salvage yard) but it has been working for the past few months until today. Thanks for your help so far and hope I can find the appropriate pages for the temp sensor replacement. Rick
 

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Look in the DIY stickies at the top too. If you find a good thread that isn't listed there, let me know. If you don't find anything, well, let us all know.
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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search my post

for evap temp sensor or pm me and i will walk you through it.autohausaz.com has them for about 37 bucks,you remove the drivers side under dash and look up to the right of the steering wheel into the dark recesses of the under dash area you follow the wires up and pull out the sensor install the new on(no gas comes out)and clear the codes.
run the tests again according to lex's program just as instructed and post the values and errors.
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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1999 E300 Turbodiesel totalled and now 2005 E320CDI and now a 2015 E250 Blutec
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Discussion Starter #12
OhLord & Matt L -- I found a page with the evap temp sensor. Pics and all. Holy cow, the guy getting help was a little denser than I am. But then again, I haven't gone and looked for the sensor yet.

I'm convinced it is the evap temp sensor because of my high, 134. #5 reading. Now that I know where it is I'll take your advice and get it -- hope it's still 37 bucks. Thanks, Rick I put the link to the appropriate pages here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1324540-evaporator-temperature-sensor-4.html
 

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1994 E320 Wagon,1999 E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, MGB Track/Rally, ,1988 300E ,more....
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search for my instructions

it tells how to remove the under dash and where to look for the sensor.how to locate it.pm me and i will locate it,maybe even a video.
ohlord:bowdown:
might be on mbworld.org w210 section also if you search.
 

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I find it odd that your compressor is running with that reading, and with the B1419 code.

Still, we all agree that you need a new evaporator temperature sensor. It helps that this part is inexpensive and quite easy to install.
 

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OhLord & Matt L -- I found a page with the evap temp sensor. Pics and all. Holy cow, the guy getting help was a little denser than I am. But then again, I haven't gone and looked for the sensor yet.
I'm sure TK (our #1 poster thanks to OT) would be chagrined by your description... :D :rolleyes:
 

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it tells how to remove the under dash and where to look for the sensor.how to locate it.pm me and i will locate it,maybe even a video.
ohlord:bowdown:
might be on mbworld.org w210 section also if you search.
Any one know if the Evap Sensor is still on the steering wheel side on a UK Right Hand Drive car ?

Thx,
Tim
1998 E300 Turbodiesel
 

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My guess is that it doesn't change sides and is still on the left side facing the dash. Reason being that the layout of the air handling unit should be the same regardless of the steering wheel orientation. Hope I'm right.
 

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1999 E320
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cnat find info on how to replace evap temp sensor

i have 99 e320. evap sensor reads 154f when outside is 89f. need instructions but cant find any. if anyone knows link please post
 

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try

The temp has no relation to outside temp,it is the evap sensor,it tells the climate control how cold the evaperator is so it won't freeze up into a big chunk of ice.The high temp is a default setting to tell the compressor to shut down so it won't freeze up.
If all is fixed and codes are not cleared when you are done with the r/r, no need to disconnect the battery,just press both auto buttons on the climate control while in the error mode of the on board diagnostics program.

The evap temp sensor is located here.
Step 5
You only need to move the seat back all the way and extend the steering wheel all the way out and up.Then just observe what he's doing in the first part of the video to remove the under dash and follow my directions.It will be obvious to you once you start,how to proceed.
Buy the new one first so you know what it looks like. Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
37 bucks or so,get an air filter and oil filter to take the order over $50 and shipping is freee.
You need to remove the plastic housing underneath the steering
column. There are 3 large screw and 1 small screw. You also will need
to pull the plastic pressure fitted plug from behind the accelerator
so you can remove it from the car. Unscrew the housing for the hood release
and slide the latch through the opening. There's also a diagnostic
connector that needs to be removed. Slide the top (from behind the
cover) to the right and push the connector through from underneath. There's
a vent that comes off by turning the screw a half turn. The carpet cover
portion is simply pressure fitted. The part next to the console needs to
slide up so you can remove it. The sensor is attached to the evaporator just about in the middle the compartment about two feet up from the floor. It has a couple of wires attached to the connector. Pull the sensor out and then disconnect the cable. Attach the new one and reinsert.
It is along the right side as you look at the steering wheel,not on the big gauge green and red wires but follow them up and with a good head mounted flashlight you will spot the end of the sensor sticking out of it's fitting.Very tight down there!Do some limbering up before getting into the pretzel position under the dash:eek:
ohlord:bowdown:
 
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