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2000 E430 (W210)
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21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It's has been a while since I've posted on here. First, I would like to think everyone that has contributed on this site. You have saved me Thousands of Dollars! Secondly, I need your help once again. This time it’s the A/C.

The A/C has been intermittently cooling. When it works, it is full strength COLD air. Then it will just not cool at all some days; the air coming out is the same as outside air temperature. On a given day, if the A/C actually cools, it will keep cooling. But it is a crap shoot as to whether it will start cooling in the first place. Both sides have the same temperature coming out, so it does not seem like the duo valve. The fan blows at the appropriate setting no matter what the air temperature coming out is. The error codes and values are provided below. Let me know what you're thinking guys!

Error Codes:

B1227 - Outside temperature indicator sensor
B1234 - Sun Sensor
B1416 - Coolant circulation pump (M13)


A/C Values (Car was Idling and Temperature was 82 F when readings were taken):

1-93
2-102
3-98
4-98
5-98
6-193
7-12
8-123
9-32
10-2.0
11-2.3
12-4.0
20-6.7
21-42
22-00
23-32
24-13.5
40-164
41-85
42-08
43-136

Thanks again guy!
 

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2001 E430 4matic
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419 Posts
Here is what I want you to do ...

Put both passenger and driver sides on low, run the AC for 20 min, and then get all the sensor readings and the fault codes (delete the fault codes before doing the above)

Most probabaly you are low on refrigerant but to make sure you should do the above, nothing costly awaiting you :) bottom line, you need a circulation pump but that is for heating and lets take one step at the time. Sometimes even pump behaves after deleting the codes lol. Technolegy is a funny thing some times ...
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,731 Posts
Single readouts without circumstances provide nothing.
Looks like you have good refrigerant pressure, but compressor is not pumping.
Your engine temperature is high and likely that is why computer is turning AC off.
The codes should not affect AC, but clear them to start with.
Turn # 7 sensor display on and observe during driving. Try to notice engine temperature at the same time.
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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7,035 Posts
Most likely a little low - and bad evap temp sensor and when it throws out insane evap readings the compressor shuts down for system safety - and when it gives good readings everything is OK - and no logic when that bad sensor feels right or when it will feel crazy !
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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3,266 Posts
>>7-12

Mine read 15.
Kmart is selling the R134 for $12. Cheap enough to try adding some to go from 12 to 15.
 

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1999 E320 190,000 miles sold 97 E320 288,000
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64 Posts
Do not just add a can

Please, for the love of god, do not just add a can of R134 without checking the numbers and thinking about it - better yet get it professionally drained/filled.

I hate looking like an idiot, but here is what just happened to me. I had put in a can of R134 to my car last year when the car was not cooling at all. It worked great and a/c had been working well.

Last week I felt the car was not cooling as much as it should so I added another can of R134 (I know better, it was just an exceptionally bad week for me). It was extremely hot when I added the can ( 112 degrees). It is now obvious that I overfilled the system by at least 1/2 a can.

One day later my a/c compressor seized up to the point that if I turn on the climate control unit the car stops. Probably due to liquid getting into the compressor because it was overfilled.

I am looking at $800 minimum (replace compressor and dryer) because I was too lazy to check the codes properly before and/or too cheap to have the system professionally refilled.

In my humble opinion, if the OP occassionally get full cold - then do not add any more R134 - the problem is probably somewhere else.

Cheers - hope my mistake helps stops someone else from doing the same thing.
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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7,035 Posts
deseerteee - feel your pain and souns advice - if you have to replace the compressor the China made Sandhen Behr is a great value.. try google search for techchoiceparts - new/new at about $260 delivered.. on replacing the dryer check to see if your hoses need to be updated as well.. Should be able to shave a bit/chunk off the $800 if you need to.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,731 Posts
overcharging can not kill good compressor as the system have safety switches, but can speed up the death of one on its last leg.
One thing keep me wonder. MB owners are on average pretty intelligent people, yet we have to keep pointing not to drop parts into car without troubleshooting.
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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3,266 Posts
C'mon, only $12 for the love of cheap and easy fix.
You can't just add refrigerant by opening/pouring in a can. It takes a charging kit and it has gauge. You can't overcharge anything. 7-12 is low, but follow the stickies running idle for several minutes, etc.
 

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Outstanding Contributor W221 Moderator
2010 E350 P1/P2, 2008 S550 Designo, 2002 ML320
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1,987 Posts
All you dudes out there working on your A/C can save a lot of time and trouble if you'll just borrow/buy/rent the proper tools. From the numbers posted above, I would hook up one of these and find out whether your compressor is really compressing.



Harbor Freight carries them

AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set

As does Auto Zone

Mastercool/R134a brass manifold anti flutter gauges set with 60 in. nylon barriers hoses and couplers (MSC66661) | A/C Manifold Gauge Set and Components | AutoZone.com

When your clutch in engaged the compressor should have enough refrigerant to cause the gauges of the manifold set to move. The low side (Blue) should drop to below 40 and 60psi, the high side should drop a bit as well. At 12bar (~174psi), you have plenty of pressure in your system.

I suspect that your compressor, like mine, has a failed/failing control valve that is preventing isolation of the low/high sides of the refrigerant circuit. If you hook up a manifold set and find that both the low and high sides are reading toward the upper range when the compressor is engaged, you probably need a compressor, or at least to service the RCV.

Here's where I posted my experience with this subject.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1656140-my-turn-acc-fun.html
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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You don't need the manifold on W210 unless you have serious problem. I do have one and use it for charging, but still read the high pressure on clima display. Way more accurate.
Would I not have the manifold, for about $5 extra you can buy a can of R134 with hose and valve.
Last time I check the only problem was that lot of cans beside R134 have a garbage in it like conditioner, dye , sealer and chicken poop.
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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3,266 Posts
>>that lot of cans beside R134 have a garbage in it like conditioner, dye , sealer
The anatomy of slow leak varies. One of my cars had a slow leak, the can with sealer fixed it. The trick was to run the AC for some time after charge to circulate it.

>>if you'll just borrow/buy/rent the proper tools
No one is going to lend you that kind of tool. To buy one, you may as well take the car to the shop for diagnostics so they'll tell you if you need a new compressor or not.
It's my way of doing "AC fix for dummies". Technically, refrigerant pressure can't go down unless there's leak in a sealed system. I had the luxury of owning several cars, same AC system to compare. I ran the AC often throughout the year for comfort. The '99 W210 bought new has been the most robust of all which I used a reference in diag/repairs. I learned how to read AC code herein two years ago. That '99 W210 read 15 by sensor#7 at idle. Other cars, some got slow leak, charged to 15 made them work. All my W210s behave the same way. You must have bad luck to get a bad compressor at around 100K miles.
 

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Outstanding Contributor W221 Moderator
2010 E350 P1/P2, 2008 S550 Designo, 2002 ML320
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1,987 Posts
Kaijtek and mbvis, I understand your points of view, but I doubt adding anything to the OP's system will make it work. If the RCV is not holding pressure, no amount of refrigerant will make it pump.

As for the 100k miles on a compressor, our summer temps here are about 20F hotter than LA, every day, so a decade of use and all those miles, I'm willing to replace the compressor.

BTW, just for reference, I have had my Automotive A/C certification for 15 years now, so I'm not just shooting in the dark here. :)
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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7,035 Posts
Let's address the issue at hand..

mbv - thanks for sharing but the OP's post points to good-fair-poor-no performance at different times - and he has been pretty clear on that.

I said - his refridgerant might be a tad low - but throwing a can of R134 into the system for the detailed symptoms he has is short sighted - and I am being polite.

I have seen the symptoms he is reporting most often by a failing evap sensor - less commonly by a partially blocked expansion valve - and the blocked expansion valve is caused by a previously failed compressor of condenser - and the OP did not report any such prior issue.

Putting sealer into the system - to address any potential leak other than a identified failed evaporator - is similarly short sighted - and again I am being polite.

Fact is very-very-very few W210 evaporators fail - however earlier E330's definitely have a higher failure rate - and those earlier E320's give the mistaken public impression that the W210 evaporator is a problem too -which it is not.

Again, a Cray Ivan evap sensor produces exact symptoms as described - but it is up to the OP to do subsequent readings when the system is good, when it is fair, etc until in his mind (not yours) until he feels that he has properly identified the true cause of his symptoms.

I have not had one major failure in any of my R234 air con's simce I started evac/refill every 203 years - except I have had two Crazy Ivan evap sensors over the years.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Our "main" W210 has 234k on the clock and we did last 65k on it. Don't know if the compressor was ever exchanged, but it was new when we purchased the car and where we live it is often used even in December. I wonder myself what is real life expectancy of those compressor as our other W210 has 255k on the clock and compressor doesn't look new neither.
Both cars run AC on low refrigerant and are freezing our elbows.
That is other issue that both cars have common. Seems the AC computer goes higwire sometimes and keeps cooling and cooling even when I reset temperatures to 85F. Often I have to switch the compressor off to avoid icicles in the car.
 

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2000-E320, 2012 Buick Enclave, 2004 Ford Ranger, 1973 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow
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I've started to notice my a/c isn't as cold as it used to be. Sometime on a really hot day it is barely cool in the car by the time I get home. I've also noticed that when I turn a corner the a/c gets cooler, but only for a couple of seconds. I pulled the codes, but have no idea what they mean. Can someone help me out here. Thanks!
1. 91
2. 96
3. 57
4. 55
5. 49
6. 182
7. 16
8. 114

Error codes are:
E61 226
E61 227
E61 234
E FF
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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And again >>> single readout without giving circumstances will not allow solid conclusion.
Your system is evidently working but you have error codes.
Take care about the codes and than worry if the system is still not performing.
 

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2001 E430 4matic
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419 Posts
I've started to notice my a/c isn't as cold as it used to be. Sometime on a really hot day it is barely cool in the car by the time I get home. I've also noticed that when I turn a corner the a/c gets cooler, but only for a couple of seconds. I pulled the codes, but have no idea what they mean. Can someone help me out here. Thanks!
1. 91
2. 96
3. 57
4. 55
5. 49
6. 182
7. 16
8. 114

Error codes are:
E61 226
E61 227
E61 234
E FF
Good news is that your system is working. The fault codes are:

B1226 - In-car temperature sensor (B10/4)
B1227 - Outside temperature indicator temperature sensor (B14)
B1234 - Sun sensor (B32)

I would delete these codes and see how the system behaves. If you still have any problems, run your car both passenger and driver side set at low cool for 20 min and post all the sensor values and don't stop at 8. Are your auxilary fans working when coolant temp is hot?

In cases like yours, sometimes just deleting the fault codes makes the system work like a charm :)
 

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2000-E320, 2012 Buick Enclave, 2004 Ford Ranger, 1973 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow
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194 Posts
How do you delete them?
 
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