A/C hot, no condenser fans or compressor 99E300

1760 Views 26 Replies 4 Participants Last post by 55Benz, Aug 3, 2017

55Benz

Discussion Starter · May 20, 2017

Hi Everyone. Last week while driving A/c air suddenly got hot. I purchase refrigerant and followed the instructions on resetting after the ec illuminated.
I hastily reset before writing down the code. Compressor come on but has occasionally for periods of less than a minute. I've tried to quickly add refrigerant while it's on with no success. Also according to my gauge the pressure on the low side quickly climbs when I try to add 134. This could be due to reading a value after the compressor has stopped running. Maybe? The pressure on low side according to my gauge was around 50psi. I let some gas out of the valve to lower it. I reduced it to about 10 psi. tried again to add when comp. briefly came on but no luck. Compressor only seems to come on when the car has not been running for 2 or more hours and I could get it or the aux fans to come on at all today. Fans turn freely by hand with no noted roughness. Fuses are all good in the engine compartment. I've run the diagnostics and will list their values below. Also I've been driving the car hoping the original fault will reappear but it has not and the ec light has not returned. Sorry I posted extra values. Thanks in advance for any help. It's hot here in Wilmington NC!
1 - 82
2 -78
3 -87
4 -87
5 -134
6 -94
7 -03
8 -82
9 -27
10-2.3
11-1.5
12-4.3
20-3.2
21-32
22-00
23-32
24-11.6
40-164
41-85
42-08
43-136

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 21, 2017

Thanks for your reply. Actually a/c worked perfectly since I've had the car; about 2 years. It just suddenly got warm last week, and hasn't been cold since.
Will evap sensor keep compressor and fans from turning on? I guess I can't get some important readings without the compressor operating.
Thanks again.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 21, 2017

Hi again.
Yeah as I mentioned earlier I screwed up in the beginning and didn't write down the fault codes when I reset the codes to get rid of my ec light and hopefully get my compressor to run again. I currently have no stored codes after running for a week. My ec light has not come back on, and my compressor sputtered on a couple of times for less than a minute and wont come on at all now. I guess I'll try turning the compressor pulley and see how it feels. Is there a test mode for the aux fan in the climate control unit? I used to have a Porsche that I could test fans with my scan tool.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 21, 2017

Hello Again,
Ok, I set P-2 to read 152 and restarted, compressor came on and I added most of a 12 can of 134. I though can was empty but had approx an oz left. Still no cold air and compressor shut off occasionally but will come on with some regularity when I start the engine. I've tried to add more 134 when compressor is running but it will not take more. The ec light has not come on again, so I can't get any fault codes. When I check no codes are showing. I tested the high fans and they came on full blast. I did get values with motor and compressor running throughout the range. Any ideas? Thanks a ton.
1 -103
2 -94
3 -141
4 -103
5 -143
6 -172
7 -06
8 -105
9 -27
10-5.2
11-1.4
12-4.1
20-3.2
21-42
22-00
23-32
24-12.0
40-164
41-85
42-10
43-152

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 22, 2017

Yes the car was running and the compressor was on for the last readings. Re: voltage: I replaced the alternator about 6 months ago and the voltage regulator is a little funny at idle but is ok over 700 rpm's. I've been meaning to replace with the one from the last alternator and use the new brush assembly only. Also the car made a loud vibration/roar on acceleration today a couple times, only when Ac was on. I pulled over and could not get the same sound when not in motion.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #12 · May 22, 2017

Hello again,
Is it at all possible the evap core temp is actually that high? I heard a very low squeal when compressor started this evening. Not loud like a power steering squeal and only for a second but not normal. While driving today with ac on I heard a bad vibration/roar under acceleration. Stopped when ac turned off. Oddly I could not reproduce the same sound when I pulled over by revving the engine slightly. Even after the noise the ec light has not returned. My code reader is basic and I don't think it will allow me to pull compressor data.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 23, 2017

Hi Guys,
I went ahead and ordered an evap sensor today. That sounds like the best starting point. The compressor is still turning ok. I think I replaced the idler pulley last year when I replaced the alternator belt and vibration damper. I didn't check it today. No garage at the moment and it rained all day. I'll update soon.
Thanks for your input.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 24, 2017

Hi Everyone,
I replaced my evap sensor today. My compressor is still running since I bumped P-2 up to 152 the other day. I've been putting it on ec when I'm driving so I don't damage anything further. I did not attempt to add more 134 today because according to my gauge pressure on the low side is at 100psi. Here are today's values.
1-93
2-85
3-134
4-93
5-89
6-166
7-05
8-94
9-27
10-4.3
11-1.4
12-3.9
20-3.2
21-49
22-00
23-32
24-13.1
40-164
41-85
42-10
43-152
Any ideas?
Thanks

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #18 · May 25, 2017

Hi,
Yes I'm getting 100 Psi with car and compressor running. My gauge works similarly to a dial type tire gauge. It holds the peak pressure until released. What would account for the difference in my low pressure reading of 100 psi. vs. value #7- 05 bars. Is value #7 low side, high side or a different pressure? I tried tapping gently on the duo-valve with my screwdriver handle with no change. I don't have a Fluke meter with a thermocoupler. Assuming my gauge is correct; my low side would simply not take 134 if I attempted to add right? I could attempt to add, compressor, recirc, on temp low and see to rule out possible gauge error. If the can doesn't get cold I'll know it's not receiving the 134....

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #20 · May 25, 2017

Thanks,
I'll give it a workout!

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #21 · May 25, 2017

Update! Outside tonight shining flashlight at compressor to confirm turning (it was) there is a black greasy ring around the frontmost part of the compressor. In front of the pulley I suppose I would call it the clutch hub? The part that doesn't spin when the compressor isn't running. I shined my light straight down, and also saw what looked like a thin greasy string of like material on the front engine splash pan. Bad/disintegrated clutch? I'm sure it's not a good thing. Hmmm, so would that be the compressor appeared to be engaged and the disc-fiber material seized to the nose piece giving the illusion that the compressor itself was spinning. I guess I'm trying to menatally discern if the compressor may be okay and only the clutch bad. What's next? Remove the clutch and investigate further?

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #23 · May 25, 2017

Hi,
It's definitely turning but with flashlight I'm noting greasy debris along the hub. Originally it wasn't turning. Then when I rigged the numbers on the control unit it's been turning whenever ac is on and ec is off. Recently even though the clutch hub is turning it doesn't seem to be under a load. I'm going to order a clutch and then tear it down. If I get into it and see more problems I suppose I'll send the clutch back and get a compressor and dryer and fresh o-rings. I hope I don't have to open the system though. I'm guessing part of the electric control to the clutch got damaged and prevented the fault code from returning. Are there any sensors or any other parts I should also replace with the clutch? (if that's all that needs replacing)
Thanks for all of your valuable info.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #25 · May 26, 2017

Hi,
I checked out the diagram and the control valve. That would make sense why it would hold pressure and not distribute it. Interesting I was expecting to see an eccentric shaft with veins around the perimeter. I messed with the car a few minutes ago. I let some of the pressure off of the low side. Still nothing. Initially compressor was turning. Then after letting pressure off (down to 35 psi.) it stopped shortly afterward. Not sure if that was related or not because the comp. had mostly stopped running days ago before I added the 16 value to trick it on.I jumped the high fans and the compressor came on also. I couldn't resist trying one last time to add refrigerant with the pressure down. It will take it when the pressure isn't too high but still no cooling. I was still perplexed about the black ring of goo around the front of the compressor clutch. I shut off the engine and without releasing belt tension I could easily turn the clutch housing in front of the pulley with my screwdriver. I could also jiggle it side to side at least an eight of an inch. That must be messed up. Possibly the the revolving plate (swash?) that controls the pistons stripped by the shaft? Not sure. I've looked at some package deals on rebuilds. I may take a gander at the local junk yard. They have a few compatible compressors in vehicles that just arrived I noted from their website: $35. I may gamble since I'm back in grad school and on a budget. No matter which route I'll replace the drier, easy to get to o-rings, and replace the oil with fresh. I'm sure more will be revealed. I don't want to take it apart until I get a replacement since it's my primary vehicle.
Thanks again I'll update as I go.

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55Benz

Discussion Starter · #27 · Aug 3, 2017

Thanks everyone for your help.
I discovered my compressor was definitely bad. Even though the clutch would still engage the shaft to the compressor must have been broken causing the compressor to not operate. I replaced the compressor with a rebuilt one, and also the dryer. Got a loaner pump from Autozone and she's blowing cold again.

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