A/C does not work, please help

i would also like to add that the car also howls when the engine is warm (when i rev the car from idling) can this be linked to the ac problem? or is it just another problem? any1 every heard of this? solution?

Cheers

o p.s Kwik Fit recharged my ac about a year ago and they reported that it had no leaks.

check code first, I have a similar problem earlier this year, I read the sticky o AC blowing warm air in this forum. I got code 1416 and in the end got my compressor changed and everything is fine after. If your compressor is not turning, r134a will not go into the system.

ok thanks for that. I take it u get all the codes and that from a diagnostic machine? (so i'll have to take it to a garage to get that info)

Killer2000 said:

ok thanks for that. I take it u get all the codes and that from a diagnostic machine? (so i'll have to take it to a garage to get that info)

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oh no, read the sticky, you can check code from your a/c display, you can get a diagnostic from your a/c display function as well. read the sticky first and you may save much

unfortuantly i don't have that climate control thing (ac display) . I just have the scroll things (to select hot and cold) and knobs for u know what. But thanks for the help.

How much did the part cost for a new compressor. Is this the part which was replaced?

http://www.automotive-air-condition...ERCEDES&Model=E CLASS (W210)&part=Compressors

Killer2000 said:

unfortuantly i don't have that climate control thing (ac display) . I just have the scroll things (to select hot and cold) and knobs for u know what. But thanks for the help.

How much did the part cost for a new compressor. Is this the part which was replaced?

MERCEDES, E CLASS (W210) Air conditioning compressors, Automotive air conditioning vehicle parts, Aircon Auto

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Yes, this is the one. The sticky also teaches you how to replace. Don't worry. But you need to make sure this is the part, because sometimes other problems may also cause a normal compressor to stop turning.

Will the compressor turn when you rev the engine say to 2k/min?

No compressor never comes on anymore (or when u rev).Will take car to get it diagnosed to see if/what part has gone first.

Thanks 4 ur replies.

iluvjesus said:

If your compressor is not turning, r134a will not go into the system.

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The tool to measure and add refrigerant is called a charging cylinder. If you have one with a heater, you can easily install the refrigerant to the system without starting the compressor.

I just did it last week, to replace the refrigerant in my car. I didn't start the engine until all of the required refrigerant had left the charging cylinder. Starting the engine at the end is necessary to let the compressor remove any liquid refrigerant remaining in the high-side service hose.

so in order to fix this problem i may need to...

-Change the air conditioning compressor
-or charge the air con system up and maybe that will sort out the whole issue
-or do something to the condensor which im still unsure about
-or clean the douvalve

anything else?

There is also an evaporator as part of the A/C system but you'd better hope that it's not bad (very hard to replace).

Thank you Matt. I don't think it is the duovalve because it doesn't affect the compressor, no harm cleaning it anyway.

Most likely the compressor valve/the whole thing.

Condensor? I don't know.

134a, unlikely if it was charged in less than a year.

Start fresh..

1) Any decent aircon shop can test the system for leaks, and identify the leaks,
They will be able to tell if the compressor is shot, or if the compressor is just not coming on because of a leak somewhere else in the system. The compressor will not run if the refridgerant has leaked out below minimum, that is by design to protect the compressor.

2) On a year 2000, the chances are way over 50% it's a leak somewhere else in the system on a MY 1998, then my guess chances are 50/50 between a leak somewhere else and a shot compressor.

3) If the compressor is shot: you will need (3) main parts: a new OEM compressor with clutch (Denso USD$500, not the cheaper Indian or China knockoff compressors), a new accumulator/drier, and a new expansion valve (USD$100 for both). The replacement is fairly straightforward and does not necessarily need to be done by a MB specialist.

Your first step is to find a trusty local auto aircon shop.. and start from there.

In addition, if your old compressor had internal damage, you replace the condenser and flush the rest of the system.

Thanks for all ur responses they have been a great help. As this has constantly been on my mind (what the cause of the problem) i remember that AC has never actually been super super cold. (Actually make u shiver or feel cold) When i topped the AC up about 9 months ago it did help but not really enough.

So basically i am seriously suspecting the AC compressor.

I’m taking the car in just to get all the AC Fluids checked out (it's free). That will tell me if there is a leak or not and will help me in my investigation.

I shall keep u all informed.

Oh just to tell u that when i put the heating on in the car ofcourse heat comes out of the vents. When i put the temperature on cold, the hot air goes to warm and over time gets cold but not ac cold. (takes a long time to get to cold from hot) Don't know if this has any significants but want to let you lot know just in case some 1 has been experiencing the exact same problems as i have.

Ok went to Halfords to day as they check the ac refrigerant level for free. It had plenty of juice in the system. Therefore i am going to change the AC compressor. (as it don’t work/ac clutch does not engage/turn) Does anyone know if you can buy the clutch separately?(maybe its just the clutch gone)

How did they determine that you had refrigerant in the system? There is only one accurate method, and that is to extract and weigh the refrigerant, and shops don't do this for free.

I can see a shop putting gauges on a car and saying, "You need a compressor," for free. Of course, they will expect a healthy check for the compressor in the near future.

Killer2000 said:

Ok went to Halfords to day as they check the ac refrigerant level for free. It had plenty of juice in the system. Therefore i am going to change the AC compressor. (as it don’t work/ac clutch does not engage/turn) Does anyone know if you can buy the clutch separately?(maybe its just the clutch gone)

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WRONG!!!!!

You are headed down the wrong path, STOP!

Did they determine if the clutch was electrified?

IF not your fix could be less than $100

If one of your sensors are bad the A/C clutch will not engage.

Did you read the A/C stickies?

o ok. Erm when i say check the ac levels they actually just checked the pressure from the low pressure port and said it is plenty.

Cheers for your repsonses. Halfords didn't say you need a new compressor i just wanted to make sure there wasn't a leak (as someone said that if there is no r134a in the system it causes the air compressor 2 stop working) As there is plenty of r134a i thought that the AC compressor had gone.

I think the safe bet is to put the car on a diagnostic machine to determine if the sensor is bad and see what is really wrong with it. However the only thing is that the diagnostic machine dont tell you if there is a machanical problem. (this is what happended before with another problem with the car) (wasted money)

Yes have read AC stickys, they are very very long though.

Thanks for the warning.

(wasn't going to get a new AC compressor was gonna get a reconditioned 1 for about £70)