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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '98 E300TD that leaks diesel as the line go into the top of the manifold (i believe). I see this is a problem with the O rings going out. I took it to a shop and the guy told me it would be costly to replace this. The question is:
Do I need a special tool to take off these i copper/gold bolts that the fuel lines go into when they connect to the manifold? Does anyone know of a step by step process? Is this a DIY project?

Below is a pic of these connectors and any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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That picture show fuel delivery valves on top of injection pump. Shops charge in the range of $1000 for replacing 6 orings costing about 40 cents each. That also SUPPOSE to include replacing crush washers,
I've seem very good pictorial on competition forum. Don't remember which one, but do a google search.
 

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I imagine that you're thinking of *****************, now PeachParts.com, Kajtek. I do recall a good tutorial in their wiki.

Be sure to read the procedure entirely before you start, and know for sure which parts you are not supposed to move around.
 

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1985 300DT 230k w/two tank veggie conversion and 50k on WVO/1996 E300D 150k 32MPG mixed driving
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The only special tools you should need are a splined deep socket tool that any dealer can look up for you. Not sure on the tool costs but imagine it is extremely minimal as are teh o-rings to do the job. I know I have seen a detailed stocky with pics on this, might be at mbworld's site. Not sure why dealers charge so much for this job, looks pretty straight forward, just the usual pain of removing the manifold and replacing that gasket as well to get at the IP. Good luck.
 

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E-Class 300 TD 1998, E-Cllass 290 TDi 1996, 601 DKB 1982(207D)
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See a great DIY at Mercedes Injection Pump O Ring R
You can buy the special serrated socket as grady indicated, but they are not easy to find. Perhaps go to a Bosch service center.
Alternatively you could purchase a couple of securing tabs at MB weld them together to a nut and use you ordinary tools to secure them again at the right momentum. The procedure to do this is indicated in the link.
So time ago I had informed at the site who provided the above link and they told very briefly: "Baum tools have it."

1000 $ for this change is ....still looking for a superlative form of ripp-off.

Cheers from also a veggie driver in Netherlands,,
Ingmar
 

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1985 300DT 230k w/two tank veggie conversion and 50k on WVO/1996 E300D 150k 32MPG mixed driving
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one other thing is you may want to start using an additive like Diesel Cleen to increase lubing effects of your fuel as ultra low sulfur fuel is most likely the culprit for these failing as the above DIY indicates and many members here and elsewhere have noted. I always add an ounce or two to every tank, supposedly helps with mileage too but can;t compair because I always run it.
 

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If you buy your diesel fuel from any big name place, they will be using additives to correct the lubricity loss that comes with sulfur removal.
 

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One more thing that I will mention here, because I brought it up here. Sorry for the hijack.

The name "m e r c e d e s s h o p . c o m" is being filtered now on this site, as you can see before where I typed it, but that is because they are changing their name to "peachparts.com." Why this is happening is outside of the scope of this forum (but I would be surprised if there weren't a thread in BWOT about it), but because it is happening, the forum operators think it is best to filter it, and of course encourage links in DIY threads and other threads to be changed.

Now, please, let's just get back to delivery valve seal leaks.
 

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E-Class 300 TD 1998, E-Cllass 290 TDi 1996, 601 DKB 1982(207D)
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one other thing is you may want to start using an additive like Diesel Cleen to increase lubing effects of your fuel as ultra low sulfur fuel is most likely the culprit for these failing as the above DIY indicates and many members here and elsewhere have noted. I always add an ounce or two to every tank, supposedly helps with mileage too but can;t compair because I always run it.
Grady...I don't think that is neccesary, taking into account the fuel that he is using to propell his car....veggie oil is the perfect lubrication for a pump....

Cheers,
Ingmar
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does anyone know where I can get a socket cheaper? Can I check these out at any major auto part stores? I emailed the guy from the web shop that was mentioned here and the guy wanted $59 for the socket. Does anyone have a better fix for this? Thanks for all your help.
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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You can rent mine with a deposit.

Contact me off list if interested.

Len
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think the fuel was my problem, since I have burned a mix of b25 and the burning smell of the diesel has gone away. Thanks everyone for your help, I did buy the diesel kleen and that has helped as well.

Len,
I might take you up on that. Let me check a few things out and I will let you know. Thanks again everyone for your help.
 

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Derreckla,

Be carefull with those blends, as Mercedes has not relased their cars to be used on these fuels. The gaskets in the pump nor the lines are not resistant to the more agressive BioDiesel....that is unless you modified it to viton gaskets.
Cheers,
Ingmar
 
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