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Discussion Starter #1
Pretty new to the benz, and the rwd format in general. First a little background on the car, the car has 240,000 on it now, maintenance has been limited to oil changes before i got the car, im pretty sure that shocks, all suspension components, and everything else is all origional. So at freeway speeds mostly, and some lower speeds in the right circumstances, i get the wobble, pulling, etc. Now after a little research on this sight, i've learned that the biggest cause of this is the rear flex bushing on the control arm? I want to replace everything, im just not sure exactly what to replace. One guy says to replace that bushing, and upper and lower ball joints. But my question is what all should i replace at this mileage? i plan on shocks, i want to do tie rods because i feel they are worn, ball joints, i need to to the front right wheel bearing again as well. is there a write up somewhere with part numbers, or can anyone give me a list of part numbers, or at the very least, everything that needs to be replace at this point? Also for the flex bushings, i have access to a full shop, and from what i've read the biggest reason people use the poly bushings is because they are easier to install? but if i have a press, is it okay to use oem style bushings? im trying to do all this for as cheap as i can and there is a big jump between the poly bushings and oem rubber ones. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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2000 C230 Kompressor Special Edition
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Try Autohausaz dot com. They list parts and part numbers.

Cheapest route will be an all-at-once approach.

Best brand is lemfoerder.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the thing about that is, that i dont know what all to get. One guy says to replace upper and lower ball joints, but i cant find upper ball joints, so i hear to replace that you need to buy a whole new upper control arm? Thats why im asking for a parts list. i can find the parts easy enough if i know everything i need to get.
 

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'98 C230, '08 C300
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If you have access to a full shop (as you said) and if you can do without the car for a while, every MB part has a parts number stamped on it. Find bad parts and replace items with MB dealer parts or source them from online sources.

However, you say you are 'pretty sure' all suspension parts are original. Get under the car to check it out, or better yet, get a pro to look at it. No sense replacing everything if you don't know what is wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you have access to a full shop (as you said) and if you can do without the car for a while, every MB part has a parts number stamped on it. Find bad parts and replace items with MB dealer parts or source them from online sources.

However, you say you are 'pretty sure' all suspension parts are original. Get under the car to check it out, or better yet, get a pro to look at it. No sense replacing everything if you don't know what is wrong!
a couple of problems there. I cant do without the car. its my daily commuter to and from work. also cant leave it dissassembled on a lift because the lift i have access to is at a business and i cant just leave it there.
 

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2.3-16 | A3 2.0T | 986 Boxster
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a couple of problems there. I cant do without the car. its my daily commuter to and from work. also cant leave it dissassembled on a lift because the lift i have access to is at a business and i cant just leave it there.

So, you can't spend an hour or two with the car on a lift inspecting the components and taking notes?

Here's what I replaced. Lower control arm bushings, tie rod assembly (the whole thing, left right and center). Anything worn or failing there will effect alignment. I also replaced the front struts at this time. On the lift visually inspect all the rubber front and back including all the bushings in the rear suspension.

It's your DD, you're going to have to give up some road time to sort it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, you can't spend an hour or two with the car on a lift inspecting the components and taking notes?

Here's what I replaced. Lower control arm bushings, tie rod assembly (the whole thing, left right and center). Anything worn or failing there will effect alignment. I also replaced the front struts at this time. On the lift visually inspect all the rubber front and back including all the bushings in the rear suspension.

It's your DD, you're going to have to give up some road time to sort it out.
An hour or two is no issue, It sounded like op was suggesting to leave it up there while i source these parts(disassembled). I was just specifying i cant do that.
 

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1995 C220
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Man, for the price that Autohaus has the upper and lower arms for, I dont think I would even mess with trying to press new ball joints and bushings in, consider what your time is worth. If you dont mind spending the extra money, I would think new arms would be the way to go. I've replaced the bushings on mine, and for the time it took me I would gladly just buy new ones the next time.

I did notice the lowers dont come with ball joints, not sure why, but they are only 12 bucks from what I saw so not a big deal.

But yes, alot of people replace the bushings because they want to get away from the OEM design and go with polys. Polys are definitely easier to install once you get the old ones out, but I really havent been happy with my ride quality since. It has been noticeably harsher, but some people like that. I do also see that Autohaus has two different ones, one being listed as HD. I have not seen this before, maybe they have improved on the design of the original bushing?
 

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1995 C220
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BTW I think they also sell an entire steering assembly including rod ends and center link. I would definitely go this route, also the steering dampener is probably shot. If you plan on doing shocks as well, that should take care of the front. The rear may or may not be in good shape. I checked mine(125k on it) recently and its all pretty tight.
 
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