[John Jones Jr.]

I don't know if there's any real interest in my old 230K, I'll throw up this thread anyway.

It's been well used and has several previous owners. I've owned it for the last six years and covered only 5k miles a year (just use it three months a year) but I don't look after it cosmetically..

Hopefully the thread will make me more committed to getting my act together and doing some bits & pieces over the next nine months and since selling another project car that took up a fair bit of my spare time I should have no excuse now for getting the 230K sorted. Also, I've penciled in taking the car to the Nurburgring next summer, that's a very faint pencil, almost like invisible ink but you never know.

As you've probably gathered it's far from a show car or garage Queen, not in a million years would it come near that , it's not even that respectable unless viewing from fifty foot away and it's far from it's original remit as comfortable cruiser. Nor is it focused track car, I'd class it as a good road car.

To be continued...

Here's a couple photo's, not much to go on except you can see it's been lowered with wider rims on the back, the hood has been cut up and it'still dirty after three months use during the summer.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hzuekT]Merc 24.10.19 by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hzvhBG]24.10.19 by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL][url=https://flic.kr/p/2hzwBG8]241019 by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]

 

[John Jones Jr.]

So, after buying this cheap 230K and getting the few months use out of it that I needed as a stop gap transport, I didn't really know what to do with it. I could have sold it and got my money back or maybe more, or just keep it. Since it was my first forced induction car of any kind and I was enjoying driving it I decided to hang on to it. And there begins a very slippery slope...

But in all honesty I've had no regrets and it's been a great leaning tool - supercharged, canbus etc and having owned several different Merc's over the years I'm a fan. The only real downsides, it's not like a BMW, VW, Honda etc where any number of modified & upgraded parts are available off the shelf supported by a massive wealth of knowledge that's out there too.

So, within two years/10,000 miles from the initial purchase the car received the mother of all services and loads of preventive maintenance. The theory behind this was safety and reliability, giving me some greater confidence in the car and so far after another four years and an extra 25,000 miles it's paid off.

Besides getting fresh fluids alround, filters etc etc, the engine was treated to all new sensors, including Maf, o2, knock and a fuel pump. Coils & leads too. Plus it got new tyres (Bridgestone Turanza T001) which were great value. The brake discs's & pads, steering joints, ball joints also got replaced, the drag link was worn and the damper was as useful as a rubber band. The engine breather hoses & PVC valve were replaced too along with the radiator (which was bowed but not leaking) and thermostat. The belts, tensioner, idler and shock were also replaced. New engine & gearbox mounts were fitted too, all were well past their best, the same with the propshaft (driveshaft) center bearing and rear coupling. I stuck with popular brands like Lemforder, Febi, Bosch, Hella, Gates etc.

The most noticeable and biggest improvement was replacing the lower front suspension arms. I fitted Meyle heavy duty items. I reckon this is a must do every 60-80,000 miles

Part numbers: 016 050 0004HD & 0005HD

There's other bits & pieces no doubt that I've forgot about but I think you'll get general drift of what I was up to.

Anyway, that's all or most of the boring stuff accounted for. I'll move on to 'modifications' carried out and planned, plus repairs, mistakes and improvements in my next post.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

One of the very first modifications I did was fitting a larger crank pulley (220mm). The best bang for buck, full stop. On it's own I reckon it gave a genuine 20-25 bhp and probably 20 lb ft of torque and all for less than $200 delivered. An eBay special, clamp on using grub screws but I wasn't too keen on the screws, so I used bolts instead. All o.k. and no issues in close on 30,000 miles.

After that, I had a remap carried out. Only a generic map sadly as finding somebody to live map Bosch ME 2.1 Ecu's defeated me. Being candid I don't know if I gained any power with the new map but driveability seemed to improve. Stuck the car on a dyno and got 214 bhp with a failing fuel pump, it started running lean just below 5000 rpm. Fitted a new pump, may be it's giving 220 now, may be not? I never got around to putting it back on the same dyno. Hopefully some day, but hell it doesn't matter what the max power is as I'm happy with the way it's driving.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Next up I relocated the MAF from the I.C. outlet up to the T/B. This did solve the very annoying 'flat spots' @ 2500-3200 rpm since fitting the larger crank pulley. BTW, I replaced the three small rubber mounts at the I.C. outlet, two where split. I presume that was caused by worn engine mounts.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hAoK1F]Maf relocation by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]

I also fitted the later ( plastic) T/B inlet rather than the original metal one. The plastic has a much nicer radius (not as sharp). Has it made any difference? I don't know but since it was free I reckoned there was no harm fitting it. I did have an issue with the boost pipe coming adrift, so I fitted good new wide band hose clips and changed the pipe setup.

One thing I have been meaning to experiment with is different Maf's. I've tried a standard Pierberg didn't notice ant difference but didn't do any logging on the OBD scanner. I also have two other Bosch Maf's, both for BMW's E46/E39's & E60's. So between two possible Maf locations and four different Maf's I've a fair bit of experimenting to do but I;m not expecting massive results possibly just problems. What I can say is, I did run the car a few years back with the BMW M5 E60 Maf and the increase in torque was really impressive but I ran into a problem after 250 miles of driving, the S/C would cut out on WOT and would only engage after switching off and starting again. The only way to overcome the cutting out was disconnect the battery for 30 mins, and then it was good for another 250 miles. What I presume was happening, during the 250 miles the ECU is going thru it's learning phase and then decides it doesn't like the MAF signal output @ WOT. It's real pity as it drives great with the E60 Maf.

 

[khomer2]

One of the very first modifications I did was fitting a larger crank pulley (220mm). The best bang for buck, full stop. On it's own I reckon it gave a genuine 20-25 bhp and probably 20 lb ft of torque and all for less than $200 delivered. An eBay special, clamp on using grub screws but I wasn't too keen on the screws, so I used bolts instead. All o.k. and no issues in close on 30,000 miles.

View attachment 2608910

After that, I had a remap carried out. Only a generic map sadly as finding somebody to live map Bosch ME 2.1 Ecu's defeated me. Being candid I don't know if I gained any power with the new map but driveability seemed to improve. Stuck the car on a dyno and got 214 bhp with a failing fuel pump, it started running lean just below 5000 rpm. Fitted a new pump, may be it's giving 220 now, may be not? I never got around to putting it back on the same dyno. Hopefully some day, but hell it doesn't matter what the max power is as I'm happy with the way it's driving.

Speer pulley upgrade?
Nice. We have this on the 99 c230K
Difference from stock is very noticeable.

Looks like you've given her a new extended life and some love.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Speer pulley upgrade?
Nice. We have this on the 99 c230K
Difference from stock is very noticeable.

Looks like you've given her a new extended life and some love.

No, not from Speer. I got it from some other German retailer in 2013, can't remember the name. But it looks very similar to the Speer one. They probably all come from the same supplier in China?

 

[John Jones Jr.]

I carried out other minor engine mod's. I fitted a 4.0 bar fuel pressure regulator but reverted back to the standard 3.8 bar now. Judging by the fuel trims from the OBD the 4 bar didn't seem to be required, the LTFT's are around -9.0/-8.0% currently, with the STFT's hovering between + 1 to 2%. At WOT the AFR is hitting 12/12.2 :1. so that's safe and not too rich.

For some strange reason I think the engine is running better with the 3.8 bar, I say that because I think it helped to eliminate the 'flat spots' I had around 3000 rpm. Of course I could be wrong because I can't see how 0.2 bar would make a different one way or the other at those rev's?

I also removed the baffles from inlet & outlets of the air filter housing since there purpose was to dampen induction noise which I presumed also may have slowed down induction airflow? Anyway, it may have helped, regardless no harm was done removing them and all better it was a free modification. I also did away with original air intake on the housing and fitted 70 mm i.d.hose and a bell mouth. Again, I couldn't honestly say if there's any worthwhile benefits but it was cheap to to do and I can clearly hear induction roar now and the Bypass valve opening.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

I'm in the process of fitting another air box inlet, a dry weather one which II'll post up within the coming weeks - you can't get enough cool air is my thinking especially with the heat the S/C produces.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

The interior:

Didn't do much here, just a few gauges. Stack Oil temp & Boost and an AEM AFR. To fit those I mounted where the stereo was with a simple stainless facia plate and moved the stereo to the little cubby hole that was there.

I mounted the all important small Autel ODB scanner just off to the let with a homemade bracket using double sided tape and some sponge. That makes it handy to remove & refit.

The original gear lever gaiter/knob was well worn and the knob was loose. After hearing the price of a new one, something like $250 I decided I'd just make up my own and shorter too. A cheap leather gaiter from eBay along with a gear stick and a heavy delrin knob, I cut the original gear stick down at the base and cut some threads on the remaining piece, screwed on the new stick job done. It looks o.k.'ish and does the job, that's about it.

One thing I was annoyed about is the positioning of the pedals, particularly the brake & clutch. So, I wanted to move them to the left as they are a bit too offset to right for my liking. I reckoned even a little movement would be better than nothing. I removed the pedal rubbers and trimmed down the metal pad itself leaving just enough to bolt some alloy foot pads too, then I could adjust these simply by bolting them in a position. I've now found the best position so I'll dump those alloy one's (I don't like them) and fit 2mm thick pads cut out sheet metal with flush bolts and refit the original rubber pads. All I really need now is normal operating handbrake, never a great fan of these foot operated one's.

Just in case!

To be continued....

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Bodywork modifications: None really, other than cutting two large holes in the hood (no harm done, the hood is covered in stone chips and the scars of bird droppings) to assist engine bay temperatures. As you can see, one vent is above the back of the rad and as close as possible to back of the I.C.. The other directly above the S/C and some of the exhaust header.

The high temperatures show up after driving the car hard and getting into traffic and worse when having to come to a stop. The amount of heat being emitted even at idle is surprising.

I used a 9v battery powered digital temperature gauge and extended the lead to the probe. All I do is place it in different locations in the engine bay and mount the gauge in the car. It's not very scientific and I haven't taken any readings in a long time but there has been heat reductions with the vents uncovered. From memory I've had reductions of 20C/68F, near the bulkhead. I'll get back to checking the temps again but for now I'm content with vents. Again, they cost little to make and can only help even if they look crude (which they are) but the covers are 100% sealed, so there's no rain making it's way into and around the engine. The mesh & fitting are stainless steel so they won't tarnish or rust.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

I needed new tyres last year so, opted for Yokohama Advan Sport this time. With standard 16 x 7 sport wheels up front I stuck with 205/55. On the rear I got some 16 x 8 ET36 sport wheels (A20240113020), I think these were standard on SLK's and may have been an option on C-Class's & CLK's. I fitted the same tyres but wider 225/50's.

What can I say? Not a lot other than I've no complaints. Are they better than the previous Bridgestone's? I don't know being candid, it'd difficult to compare old worn tyres with new one's when both brands are in a similar price point. Anyway, the Yoko's are doing their job come rain or shine.

Here's a shot of the 16x8, you see there's a noticeable lip on the outside unlike 16x7's.

.

 

[khomer2]

Nice touch with the extinguisher.
Never had to use ours in each vehicle for our own, but they sure do come in handy when you see another driver in a smokie fire distress (thank goodness only one time....)

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Weight reduction.

Ideally I want more power or a quicker car. But, I've no plans on porting or running a smaller pulley on the S/C etc So, my only option is to lighten the car, the problem there is I don't want to strip it either. I set a modest target of 50kg/110lb.

Items gone:
Rear split folding seats, head rests, belt receivers & rear shelf speakers. 28.5kg/62.7lb
Exhaust resonator 2.5kg/5.5lb - mistake, doesn't sound too good.
A/C system 17kg/37.5lb
Original spare wheel, replaced with a space saver from a W203 6kg/13lb
Lighter battery 6kg/13lb

Total: 60kg/132lb

Added items:
Rear 16x8 alloys + 225/50 tyres 4kg/8.8lb
Fire extinguisher & gauges 3kg/6.6lb
Rear bulkhead Plywood sheet (seat opening) and 2 x lateral reinforcement bars 5.5kg/12.1lb

Total: 12,5kg/27.5lb.

The total savings made was 47.5kg/104.5lb, so close to my target of 50kg.

The car weighs 1420kg including [email protected] 68kg, luggage @ 7kg and 90% fuel @ 42kg . Subtracting those items leaves a dry weight of 1303kg/2866lb,

1303kg - 47.5kg + myself 95kg + 50% fuel @ 22.6kg, wet weight 1373kg/3020lb,

So, overall not a bad reduction giving 160 bhp/ton (220/1373) compare to stock @ 136 bhp/ton. Ideally, I'd really like 175 bhp/ton but I'll dream on.

The only way I can see on reducing the weight further is to fit light weight seats, lighter wheels and custom exhaust system. All pricey things to fit and they become very expensive when the actual value of the car is taken into account. But if I found good used parts I'd be tempted. There's an easy 40kg/88lb weight reduction with that lot.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Nice touch with the extinguisher.
Never had to use ours in each vehicle for our own, but they sure do come in handy when you see another driver in a smokie fire distress (thank goodness only one time....)

Thankfully I never had to use one but you never know and as you say it could assist somebody else too.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

To follow: Suspension, I.C. trials & errors and future plans.

 

[georgebuhr]

If you want to spend a stupid amount of money you could put a 4 pound braille battery in there. That would lose some serious weight compared to the stock one. https://braillebattery.com/collections/micro-lite/products/ml9c-1

 

[John Jones Jr.]

If you want to spend a stupid amount of money you could put a 4 pound braille battery in there. That would lose some serious weight compared to the stock one. https://braillebattery.com/collections/micro-lite/products/ml9c-1

1000 bucks? That's more than I paid for the car!

 

[John Jones Jr.]

double post

 

[georgebuhr]

I told you it was a stupid amount of money.

 

[John Jones Jr.]

Suspension:

In the first year of ownership I replaced the tired shocks on all four corners, the old one's looked original and where still balanced (even wear alround). I fitted Koni (yellow) Sport adjustables, these are a mono tube design. The car was transformed but it became more apparent that front suspension was worn but I still carry another 10 mph into bends than I could with the old shocks.

I did on reflection make a mistake buying these Koni's (my first Koni's, usually buy Bilstein's), I was under the impression that they were on car adjustable, sadly they have to be removed to adjust and that's been a pain. The on car adjustables are twin tube design, which on reflection I would have been just as happy with - live & learn.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hAkFFN]koni_26-1575SPORT_600px by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hAovdR]E2545-140 by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]

I fitted a set of Eibach Pro-Kit springs, dropping the car by about 30mm, since my car is a Sport version the drop was less. maybe 15mm. I did run into a problem when I was fitting fronts, both spring perchs had started to rust where they attached (welded) to the inner wing, it's not a uncommon fault here in Europe, the salt roads show up any design flaws when it comes things like this.

These are the reinforcement plates the local machine shop cut out for me, they are 3mm thick.
front spring pearch plates by Johnny Slow, on Flickr

Sorry about another crap & old photo, but you can see where new 'u' shape steel plates were welded to the inner wing and the top of the spring perch. Obviously, the perch top and the small section of the wing were taken back to bare steel, then the plates were welded in and painted etc.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2h12xra]spring plates by Johnny Slow, on Flickr[/URL]

While I was at it I replaced the brake hoses with a Hel stainless steel braided kit.