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I added 5L and planning to use the coolant line hose draining method with 6 additional new liters I still have, I am thinking if the pump is bad than in theory I should not have a flow of fluid pumping out correct?

Also what gear should I do this at I've seen people online do it with "Park" and also some with "Neutral" and thoughts.
In Park. At least backwash filter gently. Whine from the pump is caused by fluid starvation. Problem is that clutch material is hygroscopic. It will absorb water and displace fluid. Water will react with steel plate of the clutches and cause delamination. I think that is what you see in the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I reassemble it with filter but didn't see you backwash message, it is not just better to order a replacement filter?

Also took it for a drive around the block it was okay but at stop sign when pressing gas RPM jumped to 3000 very fast and back down just as fast.

Now getting a slight shaking/vibration when in R and D. not sure if it motor mount this is at R and D when I am still in garage and not moving.

By the way dipstick didn't register any fluid at hot temperature grant it I let it warm up for 15 minutes and drove around the block once.

Pin2
 

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Idea about backwashing was to see severity of contamination. New filter is of course better. You should not move vehicle until you have solid cold level fill.
 

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Make sure you have the fluid levels right, after installing a new filter. If the transmission shifts fine for a while I believe the pump is fine. Make sure the filter is properly inserted. I think there is still hope.
 

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I wouldn't reuse that filter. Once you take it out, you don't reuse it. Replace the filter and fill it with fluid. And make sure the fluid level is correct.

Then go and have someone clear your TCU error codes. Let us know how the car drives after that.
 

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Refill what you drained from the pan then get it to the correct level. Don’t touch the TC drain or filler lines until you have it running properly. If you want to clear the fluid further, replace what’s drains from the pan every few hundred miles until it looks clear.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Going to get new filter and additional fluid and see what I can do this weekend. I want to wrap this up before I start school on mid May. Will keep you all posted Thanks for the help.

Any idea on the magnet that I should use I don't want to get a weak one and have it jumping around in the pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I wouldn't reuse that filter. Once you take it out, you don't reuse it. Replace the filter and fill it with fluid. And make sure the fluid level is correct.

Then go and have someone clear your TCU error codes. Let us know how the car drives after that.
I do have the Foxwell scanner and already cleared the code. Yesterday, after the swap of fluid I did clear the code and after the drive rescanned and no new codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Refill what you drained from the pan then get it to the correct level. Don’t touch the TC drain or filler lines until you have it running properly. If you want to clear the fluid further, replace what’s drains from the pan every few hundred miles until it looks clear.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Thanks Tabijan that was my plan too but after 100 miles I ended up not moving, if I can manage to keep it running I have no issue drain and fill and repeat until I don't have to. I guess this was the first one so maybe the next drain will last me longer. I am guess wife was complaining about no acceleration for several weeks so it will take me several weeks to get it right. :grin
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Okay got the new filter today and additional fluid so decided to tackle it.

1. Removed the old filter and did backward flush with whole can of brakleen cleaner. (picture in alumunium roast pan)
2. Blasted the filter with brakleen and you can see the difference in the white and black spot in the filter hole.
3. There is a trail of the grainy stuff in the gray collection pan I got after dropping the pan got 2L of fluid out.
4. The grainy stuff on my finger feels like sand but brakes apart almost like wet soil after rubbing it.

Going to add new filter and top it off to cold mark on the dipstick and drive.

I was wondering at this point if it dies on me again should I take it to benz pro shop in my town (Import Auto Haus) and get them to do a flush using a flush machine to get it all out. Will this even benefit me to get it done?

I am not seeing anything the is looking like metal but wonder if the grainy material is metal particles but looks black and brown.
 

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I like your determination in getting it running. Geesh you have a boat load of debris in there! Hope it gives you many more miles of smiles.
 

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If you had metal particles, they would be in silvery and /or brass colored specs. The black/brown stuff are from the clutches.

Not sure if your scanner can display the fill pressure and fill time from the TCM menu, but it can be a valuable tool to determine, the condition of the clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Hey, all I wanted to update since it's been a while.

I ended up junking the car it was not worth the effort to spend any more time and money attempting to fix it. After, the last flush attempt it started to struggle after driving about 100 miles.
The conclusion was the transmission pump was done and it would cost me more money than what the car is worth to get it to fix so had to let it go.

I do miss the car it was a strong car and fun to drive.

2604356
 
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