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1973 450SL 1984 300TD 1997 E320 1956 356A Porsche 1973 Super Beetle
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
6 months ago I replaced the front shocks. Ride got much better and less clunky over the bumps but still there is a bit on the passenger side.
When I was replacing the shocks, the piece that cover the bigger hole on the top of the wheel well and has a hole in the middle of it for shock threads to come thru was loose. It was not welded like the other side to wheel well. I did not think much about it and installed the new shock. After torquing the top mount nuts everything looked and felt ok.
Now that I am thinking back about it, it seems the big washer for lack of better terms should have been welded back to the top of the wheel well. Because when wheel goes over the bumps instead of squeezing the shock it just moves the top mount.

Am I over thinking this? could it clunkiness be due to old rear shocks? planning to replace them when weather allows.
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99' E320, 00' E320, 03' E320T, 05' C230K
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Maybe..............but that washer doesn't really hold the shock down. The compression of the rubber donut does.

Did you tighten the nuts on the shocks with the wheels on the ground? Worn suspension and sway bar links could also cause clunking.
 

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1973 450SL 1984 300TD 1997 E320 1956 356A Porsche 1973 Super Beetle
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe..............but that washer doesn't really hold the shock down. The compression of the rubber donut does.

Did you tighten the nuts on the shocks with the wheels on the ground? Worn suspension and sway bar links could also cause clunking.
Thanks, I will check them.
But still have a hard time seeing how the whole assembly the two nuts, washer and rubber donut and the this unwelded piece held connected to the body of the car. Isn't the top part of the shock and this assembly free to move freely from the body?
 

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Thanks, I will check them.
But still have a hard time seeing how the whole assembly the two nuts, washer and rubber donut and the this unwelded piece held connected to the body of the car. Isn't the top part of the shock and this assembly free to move freely from the body?
The top of the shock should not move freely. If it does, then your nut isn't tight enough. The top of the shock is held to the bottom of the fender by the tension of the compressed rubber donut on top. The rubber donut provides some give/flex for suspension movement. It is very important that the nuts be tighten with the weight of the car on the ground.

You might try putting a thin rubber washer or RTV sealant underneath the washer that was welded to the body. This might minimized any lateral movement.
 

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1973 450SL 1984 300TD 1997 E320 1956 356A Porsche 1973 Super Beetle
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The top of the shock should not move freely. If it does, then your nut isn't tight enough. The top of the shock is held to the bottom of the fender by the tension of the compressed rubber donut on top. The rubber donut provides some give/flex for suspension movement. It is very important that the nuts be tighten with the weight of the car on the ground.

You might try putting a thin rubber washer or RTV sealant underneath the washer that was welded to the body. This might minimized any lateral movement.
Ok.
Originally it was two nuts. But replacement shocks came with one luck nuts. I will check the torques on the luck nuts. Also will check the tie rods. clunk happens not going to the bump but seems coming ooff the bump. Much less than before the shock replacement. Maybe the rear shock replacement will improve it further. The shocks seems original and car has 170k.
Thank you for your advise
 
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