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97 E320 cranks but will not start!!

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33K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  khomer2  
#1 · (Edited)
01 E320 cranks but will not start!!

I started my car around 4:30 am to head to work. It was raining pretty hard but car started perfectly and drove me to work with no problems at all. when i got off from work i went to car to start it and it wouldnt. just cranks and cranks. i have changed the crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor. the car has no codes currently showing. but did have fuel trim code that showed and i cleared it. i hear the fuel pump cut on i also changed the fuel filter. at my fuel pressure reg there is drops off gas that comes from regulator into what i believe is the vacuum line. i also sprayed starter fluid into the intake and car tried to start this time but it didnt. i need help ideas or something. also note as the car is cranking tach (rpm) doesnt move.......but when i sprayed the starter fluid in car the rpm rose to about 1500 and then died to 0.
 
#2 ·
first of all no fuel should be visible or be smelled from fuel pressure regulator, so you need to change it, $40 from autohaus and takes 5 seconds to replace.
also check your air filter. last spring i drove car in very heavy rain, and later that day car wouldn't start. i had put a cheap fram air filter a few weeks before, and first thing i checked is how it looked. the rubber sides had been torn and it was wet and shrunk 2inches. it could have happened with mann filter also, but i'm never putting a fram product in anything i own.
 
#4 ·
the fuel trim code you had most likely is from fuel pressure regulator, but bad maf or vacuum leak will give you a fuel trim code also. i wouldn't think that a bad fuel pressure regulator would stop the car from running, but who knows, i'm not a mechanic:D. don't forget to check the air filter tomorrow, and check if it looks like it has gotten wet.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Don't want to knock you, but it would seem to me as if you had not done your basic diagnostics yet. For any engine to run, it needs two ingredients: (a) Fuel and (b) an ignition spark.

Have you checked any of these? Do you get a spark at the plugs when turning the engine over? Do you get a fuel supply when turning the engine over and what is the pressure on the fuel rail at that time? If both are present, then the engine should start, if any one is missing it will not.

Unless of course you don't have any compression or don't get any air into the engine, which is a totally different story and other diagnostic procedures.
 
#8 · (Edited)
well i checked the air filter and it is surprisingly brand new. only had car for 2months. also i checked for spark and it sparks. i pulled every spark plug wire and changed around the coil packs and all wires create spark. there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. ( when i turn key to on position fuel squirts out rail) of course when i hit the check valve. however i do not know the pressure for i do not have a pressure test. i will but one this week sometime after my fpr comes in. also i would like to know where the fuel pump is on this car? when i changed the filter there seemed to be a pump next to it (if that is not a pump please tell me what that is). i also hear the pump cut on when i turn key how can i determine if the pump is deffective. car has 106k on it
 
#9 ·
If you have fuel at the rail and spark at the plugs there are only two other thing I can think of to check.

1) Make sure you have an injector pulse. If they are not firing you won't be getting any fuel into the combustion chamber.

2) Check your compression. I have a M104 in my SL that had a clogged pressure release valve in the oil pump. The excessive pressure prevented the hydraulic lifters from allowing the valves to completely close. As a result there was no compression.

The cylinder next to your fuel filter is your main fuel pump.
 
#13 ·
Ok I have not gave up car still cranks but no start. I have my car at indie mb shop. He has told me I have the following codes: p1570 b1701 and b1703. First he had me buy a new key. 251 dollars later still no start so he had replaced transponder coil.........still no start.....now he's telling me I need to replace das. Any ideas would be greatly appretiated. Because I think it is something he is missing......also all of a sudden he is saying I am not getting any spark....funny because I was getting spark when I was working on it.....I'm just lost and I don't want the mechanic to be playing the guessing game at my expense.
 
#15 ·
mechanic wants me to buy new das but not gauranteed thats the prob.....i have spark but no injector pulse.....im about to take car from him and send to the dealer.....they say they dont play the guessing game at my expense they will nail the prob on 1st attempt......does anyone have any suggs for me?
 
#17 ·
Sounds like the immobilizer or alarm has been activated which disconnects pulses to the injector. Or you might have a bad immobilizer.

Try resetting the alarm by either disconnecting and reconnecting the battery or using the key on the driver door turn it to lock then unlock a couple of times.

That should reset the alarm. Give that a try before taking it to the dealer.

Can't hurt and it just might work.
 
#19 ·
Welcome,

responding to a 5 year old thread? :unsure:

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