Started with some clunking, and squirrelly Ness in the rear. Had a broken subframe mount. Here's the job with lots of pics. The mess that started this trip.
View attachment IMG_20190706_135830310.jpg
Salt and aluminum don't mix. The rear mounts were fused to the frame mount. Had to drill a hole int the aluminum in subframe mount from the bolt side, and not drill much of steel of car. Then used chisel to crack the mount open. That finally allowed me to drop the subframe.
Found two Miller tools that are for crossfire, and look very similar to the Mercedes ones for subframe bushings. Miller 9110 and 9111. The 9110 worked like a charm on the rear subframe mounts. The 9110 was not ideal and I had to invert the main stirrup to use it for the front subframe mounts. Subframe all cleaned up and ready for fitup of the body.
New mounts dress from the deep freezer....mmmmm
mount.
Seriously, the back end that got years of brine and salt spray was brutal. I told people it looked like the car was backed into the Atlantic and left for years.
But after helping find sheet metal for a few Brits, it's almost normal for the UK, and normal for the northeast us.
Almost forgot the diff mounts series. Sharpie centering line to keep it straight. Just line up with the notch stamped in the subframe. Thanks to BW members who share tools!
For the frame mount part. Mercedes makes repair pieces specifically for this job. I'll see if I can find part numbers. It's basically the piece they used to make the car. It fits together with a tab that comes into the cabin that was factory spot welded. I did a few stitch welds instead.
The mounts are two pieces. One piece the mount, other is the threaded plate to screw into.
Rear brake lines were crusty. Figured I'd just make brake and sls lines a two piece arrangement for serviceability. Left the front steel feeder lines is place ( they were much less crusty) and put brass unions right before the lines went up over the subframe. Then did the upper sections in nicopp so they will outlast the car. This way the hard to get to section will not corrode like the steel lines. So dropping subframe won't be necessary. Whadda nice bubble!
Forgot pics on that...but also drained the fluid from reservoir.
On to the front. Had a friend sell back a 94 sedan after his kid cooked the trans. Good thing too. It's was rust free and an asr car.. more on the asr score later. clipped the front inner fender area left and right, as well as all four rocker jackhole sheet metal pieces. And...voila fender cancer and Jack holes...fixed. yes I use sheet metal screws instead of clecos! Panel bonded those pieces. Was able to exercise the front struts pushing on the finished pieces. Plenty strong I'd say.
Assembled the rear with new links. Control arm was only 2 years old...so didn't bother to paint it. And since it was an asr car, it had three pieces unique to asr. The diff and wheel speed sensor wire brackets. Let me tell you the ones on the car looked like something in a bronze age museum exhibit. But having beautiful ones on the parts car was a score, because the rear most one is nla. Here's new and old pieces as well.
Started longing to be done so took less pics too. Ended up buying new hard lines from shock to nitro cell as well. Everything looked so clean And crisp I couldn't leave the crusty lines there
Just out of curiosity, whereabouts is this car living at? Judging by all the swiss cheese, it looks like your car either lives in the UK or similar region.
I strong believe that the UK must have invented acid rain to cause the sort of rust I come across on those cars. I refuse to buy any car coming out of the UK and Ireland because of the brown cancer.
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