[ramthis9501]

Trying to help my grandpa out with his 95 SL600. He took it to a shop the other day after it threw itself in limp mode and they diagnosed the problems... The left throttle actuator, right throttle actuator and throttle control module are all out and need replaced. At least that's what the shop is telling him. All this is going to cost around $15,000 to be repaired, which is something my grandpa isn't willing to do.

I looked up the part numbers on them and here's the prices for them new coming from Mercedes themselves...

Left throttle actuator - $3,056 Part #000-141-5625

Right throttle actuator - $3,680 Part #000-141-5525

Throttle control module - $3,952 Part #129-545-2232

Seems completely outrageous to me... So my question is, is there a cost effective way of getting these things fixed?

I looked up and saw that the actuators can actually be repaired instead of replaced... Anyone know of a good place to send them to have that done?

If it's going to cost that much though, I think he's just going to throw the flag up :surrender:

Also, if anyone has these parts just laying around or has a good hook-up, please let me know.

I appreciate any help that I receive.

 

[NEOKEN]

I looked up and saw that the actuators can actually be repaired instead of replaced... Anyone know of a good place to send them to have that done?

BBA Reman - Mercedes Benz Throttle Bodies

I appreciate any help that I receive.

SL600 WIRING ISSUES UPDATE! NEED HELP THROTTLE BODY!

1993-1995 Engine wiring harness problems
.

 

[ramthis9501]

Thanks! Awesome links you put up, I appreciate it!

 

[tdoriot]

Good job helping your Grandpa ! His shop is attempting to sodomize him financially. I had exactly the same problem, and as you will see in that thread, I repaired my car for around $ 300.00 and a few days labor. I'd bet when the TA's are rewired, all will be well. Don't hesitate to ask questions here, I bet we can solve this riddle for less than $ 15k

 

[ramthis9501]

Which thread, the 1st or 2nd one? And I'm guessing if the actuators just need rewired, then that is what's making the control module not function properly right?

 

[tdoriot]

The thread that Custom 1978 started and Fritha78 and I worked thru our issues. As you can see, the bad insulation allows wires to touch each other and of course ground, which sends bad info to the computers. Unless something major shorted and killed a module, I'd bet you'll be golden. I was !
Don't try to get away with one, do them both. Also check the rest of the harness. The body harnesses in the engine compartment fare better than the starter, injector harness running down the center of the engine and the TA harnesses.
BBA does a good job as well as a guy in New York named Victor. He's done 2 sets in the last 2 weeks for BW members. If the wiring was bad enough to fry a computer, Get the TA's fixed, check the wiring then we'll see. Good luck. Fill out your profile. It helps others help you !

 

[ramthis9501]

I'll have to get some time tomorrow to look through it all. Thanks! I'll do some looking and research

 

[ramthis9501]

Very good job on the rewiring tdoriot!

Few quick questions:

First, exactly what kind of wire did you use and where did you get it?

Second, where exactly is that circut board at?

Third, can you reuse the same connector by just pulling the old wires out and putting the new ones in?

Fourth and final, is there a book I can get on the wiring and such? Like a Chiltons automotive book?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Fritha78]

Very good job on the rewiring tdoriot!

Few quick questions:

First, exactly what kind of wire did you use and where did you get it?

Second, where exactly is that circut board at?

Third, can you reuse the same connector by just pulling the old wires out and putting the new ones in?

Fourth and final, is there a book I can get on the wiring and such? Like a Chiltons automotive book?

Thanks in advance!

1. Tracy and I got the wire from this web site: PTFE High Temperature Stranded Wire we used 14 Gauge for the two motor leads and 20 Gauge for the rest.

2. The circuit board is inside the ETA on the side where the wire sheath enters.

3. We used the same connector but be careful how you take it apart. Check out this web site: Rewiring the Right Side Electronic Throttle Actuator (ETA) | V12 Uber Alles

4. I recommend you print this web site and study it: Rewiring the Right Side Electronic Throttle Actuator (ETA) | V12 Uber Alles . I also recommend that you confirm your ETA's wiring is the same as this web site. I took an ohm meter and checked each wire's pin out as I unsoldered the wire from the circuit board. I also recommend that you check each wire as it is unsoldered to ensure that it isn't shorted to another wire in the sheath.

Tracy and I varied in the way we sheathed the wires but both worked first time.

Good luck and if you have any further questions please advise.
Doug

 

[ramthis9501]

Awesome man thanks alot! Great info, I'll be doing alot of studying on this over the next couple weeks so I can get my head straight on all this.

 

[tdoriot]

Doug was right, you need to be very careful with the connectors. I took the picture from UberV12 and had it at the bench while I cut the mold line in the case to the depth that seemed correct. Then a small screwdriver to carefully crack it apart. Worked flawlessly. DO NOT cut the connector off ! I also left about 3" of original hose/sheathing coming out from the TA intact then split the rest down to the last 3" I think Doug just pulled each wire out one at a time and retained the entire hose. Considering that they have some packing cords in the hose, there was evidently enough room. I simply replaced mine with NAPA's 1200 degree F silicone over fiberglass spark plug wire protector. It is black and slid neatly over the sheathing ends from the original harness then got a double black zip tie both ends. If you read all the stuff Doug, I and the Uber V-12 guys have, you can't go wrong. Just do 1 wire at a time ! If you try to do too many and swap 1 your screwed. Doug found that place for wire. Use them. Don't scrimp on wire. You need 25' or the 14 gauge and 50' of the 20 gauge. This is killer stuff ! Rated for 200 degrees c. Teflon and mil spec.
Do both. If one is bad, they both are unless one was upgraded along the line. Take the cover off and you will know !. After both of mine were done, it ran like a new car.
I wonder how many guys like your Grandpa simply wrote a check to somebody to replace all that crap for about what the car was worth, or gave it away because it was too expensive ? PS, I'm still looking for a red 600 !

 

[ramthis9501]

Thanks man I'm hoping I'll be able to do it in a weekend because he lives over 2 hours away from me. I imagine there are way to many people who have just paid to have it done because they're either to lazy to do it themselves or simpley know nothing about cars haha

P.S., his car is a bright red 600

 

[tdoriot]

In that case, it's not repairable for less than $ 15k. Pay me $ 1k and I'll send a car transporter

 

[Fritha78]

In that case, it's not repairable for less than $ 15k. Pay me $ 1k and I'll send a car transporter

Wow, I'm glad mine's not red. I'd have to hire a couple of armed guards to keep it safe. Of course, if it did come up missing I'd just look in Tracy's garage.:thumbsup:

 

[tdoriot]

Hmmmm! On second thought, my decor is black and white art deco, might be a good garage theme too! Be afraid my friend, be very afraid!

 

[Fritha78]

I'm not afraid, you've been wanting a red 600 for so long your mind is set. White with blue interior would just clash with the black one.

 

[tdoriot]

I am pretty obvious I guess! Red it is! So to all you 600 SL, or SL600 owners out there, keep me in mind ! Especially when the A$$ Reamer light of doom comes calling

 

[tdoriot]

Ok, so as Paul Harvey used to say ? What's the rest of the story ?

 

[ramthis9501]

Hey guys, sorry its been awhile since I logged on here but I finally got a chance to come up to my Grandpas today. Took the car for a drive and it is definately got something wrong. It's in limp mode and can barely pull a hill... It still runs decent if I shift through the gears manually but it's still only about half power. The ASR light is also lit up on the dashboard. I got some pictures of underneath that I will post up later so I can make sure I am looking at the right things. Hope you all can stick around to help because I'm about to really get serious and get this thing fixed. Maybe back into sellable condition... Thanks in advance!

 

[tdoriot]

Glad to hear it. My offer is still on the table to take it out of your misery ! You will never get it to run without re-wiring or replacing the throttle actuators. Guaranteed ! That's step one. Anything else is a waste of time. !