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93 300sl starts fine but does not drive

1926 Views 52 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  rayhennig
I’m not sure if I’m in the right place. I’ve looked everywhere on the internet and in your forum for similar cases to my car, and so far nothing like it. So I bough this 93 300sl not running. Looked really good and complete minus the ignition control module. I found a used module online and bought it. Connected the different sensors to it and the car turn on like clockwork. It idle a bit high but I figure that was normal since the car had not ran for a long time. The po mentioned it hadn’t ran for about a year. So I let it idle for a bit, after a few minutes I put it in drive and that’s when I noticed the car would not engage into gears. It drove super slow and as I tried to accelerate harder it would kind of just want to turn off. To the point it just turns off randomly. I’ve replaced dristributor cap, rotor, cables and some rubber hoses. Still have the same symptoms and I just don’t know where to start looking. So again, the car will start fine, idle ok, and after a few minutes will just die out randomly or if I try to put it in gear and drive off it has no power and shuts off as well. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Ok, so can I get a resistor or do I need to get a whole new ezl?
You should be able to find a resistor by Googling the part number. I guess you'll want No: 2 for premium fuel with Cat. There's one here:

The car will run fine without the resistor - I can barely tell the difference.

I'll be optimistic here and say that, if the car starts, your EZL is OK. That has been my experience over 24 years with the same car - same engine as yours.

If you can find another EZL, I recommend that you put one in stock. They are increasingly difficult to find and costly - well over 1000€ in Europe and 2300€ here in rip-off France.

Also, don't forget a thin, even layer of good quality heatsink compound between the EZL and the bulkhead - nice clean surfaces too. You don't need any foil layer either.

Good luck - nice engines when they're working correctly.

RayH
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I wonder if that actual clear slim tube might need to be connected somewhere important?
A vacuum tube from the inlet manifold is connected to here:

Input device Gadget Video game accessory Camera accessory Home game console accessory


R
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It’s points me to a box that looks more like a module.
That sounds like the MAS box and that contains the fuel pump relay. 6 months ago a would have said that the MAS box is OK. For me, a quarter of a century with the same one. But I had a 'no start' and that was solved by changing the MAS.

So, yes, the MAS box contains the fuel pump relay. Sorry I cannot be much more use.

RayH
would the pin having all that gunk
Maybe but my more general advice with these (and probably any) cars is to clean electrical contacts whenever and wherever you can get at them. Buy a good quality contact cleaner (NOT ordinary WD40) and spray, plug, unplug several times then repeat, to make sure all pins and sockets are cleaned.

R
I keep hearing about the crank sensor
Highly unliekly in my experience.

You can measure its resistance by unplugging at the EZL. 750 to 1100 Ohms, if I remember correctly. Measure it hot and cold.

RayH
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