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1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m not sure if I’m in the right place. I’ve looked everywhere on the internet and in your forum for similar cases to my car, and so far nothing like it. So I bough this 93 300sl not running. Looked really good and complete minus the ignition control module. I found a used module online and bought it. Connected the different sensors to it and the car turn on like clockwork. It idle a bit high but I figure that was normal since the car had not ran for a long time. The po mentioned it hadn’t ran for about a year. So I let it idle for a bit, after a few minutes I put it in drive and that’s when I noticed the car would not engage into gears. It drove super slow and as I tried to accelerate harder it would kind of just want to turn off. To the point it just turns off randomly. I’ve replaced dristributor cap, rotor, cables and some rubber hoses. Still have the same symptoms and I just don’t know where to start looking. So again, the car will start fine, idle ok, and after a few minutes will just die out randomly or if I try to put it in gear and drive off it has no power and shuts off as well. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 

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1989 300SE 247k+ miles
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4,767 Posts
To me, this screams bad EHA. Is it leaking?

That said, it could be anywhere in the KE-jetronic system. And if the EHA isn't leaking, start elsewhere. Bad OVP. Bad fuel injectors. Mis-adjusted 3mm tower or air flow plate. Bad air flow potentiometer.
 

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1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I don’t remember seeing anything that wet in the engine. Then again, I was not looking for anything in particular. I’ll look it up tomorrow and come back with updates. Thanks
 

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1990 300SL-24V, 1999 SLK230 Sport, 2018 Subaru Forester XT touring
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113 Posts
Sorry to hear that! The KE Jetronic is very funny sometimes. The fact it starts is good. That probably means the EZL you got is somewhat working, but since it controls pretty much the entire ignition system, it doesn't mean it is working correctly. If you have a 1993 300SL-24V, you need to check, if you have the proper EZL.

Please take a lock and confirm your BOSCH/Siemens part number is printed on it. If you have the M104.980 or M104.981 engine your acceptable EZL's should be: 0075457032, 0075457132, 0105459532, 0105459632, 0125452032, 0125452132. Make sure it has the round MAP controlling resistor 0155456728 plugged in.

Even if you have these installed, no guarantee it is a working one, other than you have a refurbished with warranty.

Next you need to start the car, idle it and then check the On-off ratio. If that is out of range, your car will not accept power and or stumble or die. The EHA does not adjust idle mixture ratio, but acceleration fuel pressure. If that thing is wacked, it will not drive properly. There are many protocols out there that can help you measure and adjust.
How old is the fuel? Is there enough fuel pressure coming from the fuel pumps, Do both work? Do you hear them humming when the car runs.

So many ways to mess up an M104. Since the car starts, you do have compression and spark and some fuel.
Go from there.

Greetings
 

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1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you UncleWolfy, that’s definitely a lot of info and I’ll start on it as soon as weather permits it here. Will get back with updates soon.
 

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1990 300SL-24V, 1999 SLK230 Sport, 2018 Subaru Forester XT touring
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113 Posts
Almost forgot, you mentioned it won't engage into a gear, but it does move slowly?! Try reverse, 4/3/2/1 maybe your torque converter is toast or low on transmission fluid and no matter what you do to the engine the car doesn't get the torque onto the rear axle. Idle the car and check the transmission fluid level when it is warm. It should be between the two markers. If it is too low, your car might not want to drive. If you need tranny fluid, go to Autozone and get Valvoline MaxLife full syn ATF (DexronVI, Mercon LV, DEX/MERC in a red bottle/red fluid). On the back it says Mercedes-Benz NAG-1 compatible. That fluid works well for our older 722.4 or 722.5 transmissions.
 

· Registered
1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry to hear that! The KE Jetronic is very funny sometimes. The fact it starts is good. That probably means the EZL you got is somewhat working, but since it controls pretty much the entire ignition system, it doesn't mean it is working correctly. If you have a 1993 300SL-24V, you need to check, if you have the proper EZL.

Please take a lock and confirm your BOSCH/Siemens part number is printed on it. If you have the M104.980 or M104.981 engine your acceptable EZL's should be: 0075457032, 0075457132, 0105459532,0105459632, 0125452032, 0125452132. Make sure it has the round MAP controlling resistor 0155456728 plugged in.

Even if you have these installed, no guarantee it is a working one, other than you have a refurbished with warranty.

Next you need to start the car, idle it and then check the On-off ratio. If that is out of range, your car will not accept power and or stumble or die. The EHA does not adjust idle mixture ratio, but acceleration fuel pressure. If that thing is wacked, it will not drive properly. There are many protocols out there that can help you measure and adjust.
How old is the fuel? Is there enough fuel pressure coming from the fuel pumps, Do both work? Do you hear them humming when the car runs.

So many ways to mess up an M104. Since the car starts, you do have compression and spark and some fuel.
Go from there.

Greetings
S
Sorry to hear that! The KE Jetronic is very funny sometimes. The fact it starts is good. That probably means the EZL you got is somewhat working, but since it controls pretty much the entire ignition system, it doesn't mean it is working correctly. If you have a 1993 300SL-24V, you need to check, if you have the proper EZL.

Please take a lock and confirm your BOSCH/Siemens part number is printed on it. If you have the M104.980 or M104.981 engine your acceptable EZL's should be: 0075457032, 0075457132, 0105459532,0105459632, 0125452032, 0125452132. Make sure it has the round MAP controlling resistor 0155456728 plugged in.

Even if you have these installed, no guarantee it is a working one, other than you have a refurbished with warranty.

Next you need to start the car, idle it and then check the On-off ratio. If that is out of range, your car will not accept power and or stumble or die. The EHA does not adjust idle mixture ratio, but acceleration fuel pressure. If that thing is wacked, it will not drive properly. There are many protocols out there that can help you measure and adjust.
How old is the fuel? Is there enough fuel pressure coming from the fuel pumps, Do both work? Do you hear them humming when the car runs.

So many ways to mess up an M104. Since the car starts, you do have compression and spark and some fuel.
Go from there.

Greetings
So after reading this, I went to check on the ignition control module and the serial number does March one of the ones you wrote up here but k just noticed it doesn’t have the resistor that you’re talking about? Or at least I can’t spot it.
Auto part Font Metal Household hardware Titanium

This is what I got apologies it was a bit dirty when I took the picture
 

· Registered
1990 300SL-24V, 1999 SLK230 Sport, 2018 Subaru Forester XT touring
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113 Posts
Yes, you are missing the resistor, that maps the EZL to the car/computer. Here a picture where it is and how it looks like. It's a plug-in, you might be able to buy one on Ebay.
Game controller Input device Video game accessory Gadget Font
 

· Registered
1990 300SL-24V, 1999 SLK230 Sport, 2018 Subaru Forester XT touring
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113 Posts
Here is what I found about the trim plug. Car should still be running without it, but you never know.

Here is the official MB guide as to what EZL trim plugs to use for specific conditions.

VersionFuel RONTrim Plug Connector
part number
*
Resistance
(ohms/kohms)
Ignition timing correction
(crank angle w/o vacuum)
Number
on plug
CATPremium 95015 545 67 282.4 kohms02
Without CATPremium 95015 545 71 28220 ohms06
CATRegular 91015 545 68 28$1.3 kohms-33
CATRegular 91015 545 69 [email protected]750 ohms-64
Without CATRegular 91015 545 70 28470 ohms-4


* If no adjustment coupling is available, the injection timing at full load is retarded by approx 3 degrees crank angle.
$ With frequent regular fuel operation
@ With pinging complaint using regular fuel
 

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300 CE 24V Sportline
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2,034 Posts
Ok, so can I get a resistor or do I need to get a whole new ezl?
You should be able to find a resistor by Googling the part number. I guess you'll want No: 2 for premium fuel with Cat. There's one here:

The car will run fine without the resistor - I can barely tell the difference.

I'll be optimistic here and say that, if the car starts, your EZL is OK. That has been my experience over 24 years with the same car - same engine as yours.

If you can find another EZL, I recommend that you put one in stock. They are increasingly difficult to find and costly - well over 1000€ in Europe and 2300€ here in rip-off France.

Also, don't forget a thin, even layer of good quality heatsink compound between the EZL and the bulkhead - nice clean surfaces too. You don't need any foil layer either.

Good luck - nice engines when they're working correctly.

RayH
 

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90 300SL
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673 Posts
Another thing to check, is the OVP relay...a failing one the car will run but poorly and exhibit other symtoms

 

· Registered
1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You should be able to find a resistor by Googling the part number. I guess you'll want No: 2 for premium fuel with Cat. There's one here:

The car will run fine without the resistor - I can barely tell the difference.

I'll be optimistic here and say that, if the car starts, your EZL is OK. That has been my experience over 24 years with the same car - same engine as yours.

If you can find another EZL, I recommend that you put one in stock. They are increasingly difficult to find and costly - well over 1000€ in Europe and 2300€ here in rip-off France.

Also, don't forget a thin, even layer of good quality heatsink compound between the EZL and the bulkhead - nice clean surfaces too. You don't need any foil layer either.

Good luck - nice engines when they're working correctly.

RayH
Thank you RayH I will definitely keep my eye out for one. I stupidly thought that the missing resistor slot was actually a vacuum hose, went and plugged one there that was not connected to anything. I wonder if that actual clear slim tube might need to be connected somewhere important?
 

· Registered
1993 Mercedes 300sl
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The EHA will be leaking gasoline out of its weep holes. This is a picture of mine.
View attachment 2800174

Here's a pdf on the KE-jet tonic system. You'll want to study up on it.
Ok, so I went out in the rain here in sunny souther Cali, and this is what I found.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Gas

my question would be, do I just replace the green little O-rings, or would I need to replace the whole unit?
 

· Registered
1989 300SE 247k+ miles
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4,767 Posts
You can try and replace the o-rings. That's what I did. In my case, that didn't work. And I bought a new EHA. And I bought like 10 of those o-rings. Because you can lose them.

Oh, and if you're new to MB, I'd suggest buying the EHA from fcpeuro. They have a lifetime warranty. And my EHA which is 18 months old just tested as "bad." So I'll be sending it back using that warranty.

And everyone will say don't buy a used EHA. I tried it. Didn't work. It was bad. Bought new.
 
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