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Please, does anyone know how to open from inside?
The key enters in horizontal position but won't turn.
I can push the button but lock does not open.
I am using the right key.
One curiousity is that I have been also having troubles in other locks and the ignnition switch.
The locksmith somehow adjusted the ignition switch and now works fine.
He told me that the key was warn out by the use during 18 years.
I have a never used key and works fine at the ignition but not at both doors and the trunk.
I thank your help.
Miguel
Buenos Aires Argentina
1984 380SEC
1988 300 CE
 

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This same thing happened to me with my trunk- the key hole is stuck in the horizontal position.

I don't have any words of wisdom for you... All I did was tinker with it for a while. I stuck the key in, jiggled it around, pushed the key knob in all the way, jiggled it some more, and it eventually turned. Maybe I just got lucky!

I haven't had any problems with it since.
 

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Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.
 

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Trunk (Boot) Key

In the horizontal position, the boot (trunk) is deadlocked. The central locking will not unlock it; only the right key will do that.

With respect, "Are you using the right key?"

My 300ce was supplied with several keys. One key would open doors and allow one to drive the car, but it would not allow access to a deadlocked boot. The idea was that you could give that key to a hotal flunky and he couldn't get into the boot and find the Duetschmarks you were due to pay into your Swiss account at journey's end.

... or something like that.

You should be able to get a complete key set from the dealer but it may cost a bit.

RayH
 

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myfirstbenz said:
Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.
Dear Sir/Madam:

Thanks for the timely advice (I wasn't the original poster, but have a similar problem with a 1991 300E. Where should the lubricant be sprayed? On the trunk latch? On the key. My key turns without any problem BUT pushing the trunk lid button won't open the trunk UNLESS I punch the button several times. Thanks for any suggestions you might have. Brett
 

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mfuchs,

if the key is worn then apart from the advice to lubricate the locking mechanisms you might also consider getting some new keys cut. I did this for my 1988 300SL.

These keys were cut and supplied my Mercedes Benz and I had to give them the vehicle vin and proof of my identity etc. However after a couple of weeks my new keys arrived and cost £9.98 each. That`s less than US $15.00 each!
 

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Yes, by all means get a brand new key from the dealer who can cut one to fit if you give him the VIN. I've done this with 3 W124s and each time the key has worked perfectly.

The lock cylinders do need lubrication but I never use liquid lubricants like WD-40, Blaster, etc. Liquid lubricants will work but they leave a wet residue that attracts and holds grit and dust. The long term view is not good. Instead, use a lock cylinder lubricant which is just a powdered graphite dust. Some brands come as a liquid that uses alcohol as the base. The alcohol evaporates quickly leaving only the graphite powder. Push the tip of the lubricant container into the key slot, forcing the door open. Squirt away. The cylinders on my 88 260E were marvelously improved using this method.

I don't know what your locksmith did but there is no adjustment of the lock cylinders. None.

To save wear and tear on my driver's door lock cylinder I use the trunk or passenger side whenever it makes sense. My wife likes it when I open the door for her anyway!
 

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always a gentleman, augapfel.
 

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Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.
Thanks myfirstbenz!! I had the same symptoms as mfuchs. After reading your reply I bought some "3 in 1 Dry Lock Lube." $3.76 for a tiny spray can at Walmart. I just sprayed it into the tiny key hole door, worked the key a bit, and it worked like new. Hope it lasts. I don't want to have to do surgery on the lock. I have enough things to fix on my '92 300E.

Thanks, again!
 

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The last response to this thread before yours XSWG was 13 years ago. Since then a lot has happened vis a vis locks. Dry lubricant seems to be the only thing being recommended and even at that, only for temporary use. If you have a lock that needs help from graphite (especially if its the ignition cylinder) you need to order a new lock cylinder for your car from Mercedes quickly. If it fails you are screwed. The reason why you want to order from MB is that they use your VIN to create a cylinder that matches the original on for the car. If your car has never seen a lock replacement then the cylinder will match all the keys you have now. The new cylinder will also come with a brand new key.

Getting a failed cylinder out is a terrible job (search for threads/videos if you are not familiar with this nightmare). Replacing one that still works (even one that works barely) will take ten minutes.
 

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The last response to this thread before yours XSWG was 13 years ago. Since then a lot has happened vis a vis locks. Dry lubricant seems to be the only thing being recommended and even at that, only for temporary use. If you have a lock that needs help from graphite (especially if its the ignition cylinder) you need to order a new lock cylinder for your car from Mercedes quickly. If it fails you are screwed. The reason why you want to order from MB is that they use your VIN to create a cylinder that matches the original on for the car. If your car has never seen a lock replacement then the cylinder will match all the keys you have now. The new cylinder will also come with a brand new key.

Getting a failed cylinder out is a terrible job (search for threads/videos if you are not familiar with this nightmare). Replacing one that still works (even one that works barely) will take ten minutes.
Thanks for the advice! I'll followup with the dealer, if I can afford their fix, and get a new lock cylinder. Again, thanks for the quick, thorough response!
 

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Thanks for the advice! I'll followup with the dealer, if I can afford their fix, and get a new lock cylinder. Again, thanks for the quick, thorough response!
Generally speaking, the cost for a new cylinder and key from the dealer is about $130. Considering the nightmare you'll encounter if the cylinder fails, it's small money. You will need to present proof of ownership to the dealer parts department before they will.order the cylinder/key.

Good luck

Jayare

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Thanks, Jayare. I need another key anyway. And thanks for your many other posts that I have benefited so much from! from!
 

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Just ordered one.
Lock Cylinder (aka, "ignition tumbler" to the Parts Dept.) Part No. 126-460-02-04 (your number may be slightly different). List $115.56 + Sales Tax.
They need your Registration Card for the VIN & proof of ownership.

When the part comes in, you will need to bring your car to the dealership so they can test the key.
They won't ship the key to your address- must go there to pick up. It's an M-B rule!

Kent Bergsma sells the custom made removal tools and a video for around $50.
You really should check it out on his YouTube Channel, easy to find.
Many poor quality removal tools are sold on e-bay- avoid them, or you may have serious trouble.

The problem is a lack of lubrication- if you can shoot some graphite, or clear silicone grease, deep into the lock via the key entrance- it may be okay--- for awhile.
That's what I did (clear silicone grease), and it is much better.

A key alone (from M-B) cost me $27. Part of the problem was the original key had too much wear on it.
The new key is much better and works on all locks.
 

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Other than running an empty crankcase, there is no problem more devastating yet cheap to avoid than a worn ignition cylinder or tumbler. They fail due to wear and this is why Mercedes recommend light key chains with few if any keys on them. Its well known that the weight and vibration damages the soft material in the lock cylinder. If not addressed, a work cylinder will stop your car dead and cost hundreds to fix.

As illustrated by Walt (above) the replacement parts are cheap. All the dealer needs is proof that you own the car (vehicle title) as Jayare has said. Imagine if Mercedes would cut a key for anyone who walked into the Parts Department with a photo of a vin tag? Hell, we'd all be driving AMG 6.3s (even if it was only long enough for someone else to have a key cut for it). On the subject of keys, again, as said above, you get a new key with the new lock cylinder MB makes for you. So back out the cost of a key and the lock cylinder is less than $100. What does a tow cost? What does 4 hours of your Indie cutting away at a locked steering column cost? What is the cost of your old lady being stuck at the mall with an immobile W124 while you are watching the playoffs? Aside from the emotional stress you will be subjected to, she might just walk back into the mall while she's waiting for AAA and do more shopping... Are you getting the picture?

All you need to remove the lock cylinder is an original key and a tool made out of a metal coat hanger. Adding $50 plus shipping just so you can increase your cost and line someone else's pockets isn't necessary and just raises another obstacle to not doing the job quickly. Just get a wire hanger, a pair of cutting pliers, a file or a grinder and make the damn tool. You can do this in the day or so it will take Mercedes to provide the new cylinder. In fact, you could spend the time practicing how to remove the worn cylinder while you wait. If you still have weak knees, wait for the new cylinder to arrive and you can use it to see how the tool does its magic little "release" of the worn cylinder.

If you liked how it felt when you ignored your Mom and just had to find out whether or not a hot kitchen stove could hurt you, then by all means just keep on driving that W124 with a worn lock cylinder. Keep shaking your can of spray lubricant, or shaking the key or better yet shaking the steering wheel. The day will come when you start doing a "whole 'nuther" kind of shaking.
 

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OK, I admit, I drank the KB cool aid.
But, it was very good!
He provides a video with the purchase that I found was good guidance.

I used the pre-loaded injector to lube the ignition tumbler, and it helped a lot.
Yes, the metal does wear, but lubing helps.
 

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Fyi, my issue, above, was with my trunk lock not my ignition. Are new tumblers available for trunk locks?

1992 300E
 

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Fyi, my issue, above, was with my trunk lock not my ignition. Are new tumblers available for trunk locks?

1992 300E
Yes, new tumblers are available for all "keyed" locks on the car.



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Fyi, my issue, above, was with my trunk lock not my ignition. Are new tumblers available for trunk locks?

1992 300E

When locks that formerly worked, stop working, it is either a warn key, a warn lock cylinder or a lubrication problem ---or a combination of these issues.

Your simplest attempt at a solution would be to lubricate the lock mechanism, only costs the cost of the lubricant.
My preference is the clear silicone grease, some prefer graphite.
 

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If you have a vibrating tooth brush or razor, hold it to the trunk lock button while you're trying to return the key to the unlock position. This has worked for me on one of my TE's tailgate locks that did not want to move back to the unlocked position.

Jayare

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If you are sure you are using the master key, and the central locking doesn't open the trunk, then you should do as Jayare suggests. If it were me and the trunk responded and opened, I would remove the lock, and disassemble it and give it the best cleaning it ever had. If that didn't work, then yes, get a lock from Mercedes
 
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