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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having some starting problems with my 240D. After it's been sitting for a while it's pretty hard to start, and sometimes I kill the battery before I can get it started. Usually after this happens I can just roll down the driveway and pop the clutch and get it going. When I go to shift it into reverse there is major grind, I usually shift it in as quickly as possible and just get a minor clunk. It is in desperate need of a new clutch and I'm hoping that's the reverse grind culprit.

I'm planning on:
changing the oil (just bought it, don't know how long it's been)
changing plugs
installing a new clutch

I've already put a new battery in it, which seemed to help a little with the starting. It has an 80 mA draw with the key out, which I didn't see as anything to worry too hard about. I was hoping you guys could give me some advice on where to find the right oil filter and plugs online and also what oil I should be using (it has 210,000 miles on it). How hard is it to check stretch in the timing chain? Is there anything else I should be doing as preventative maintenance or just things that are a good idea? Thanks in advance, this is a great board that has already given me some great advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Nothing? I even searched for this info and couldn't find anything. Though I did find the place to buy parts online. It's asking me for an engine number that I can't seem to find any information on:

To which engine range does the vehicle belong?
-10-121328
-12-035839
10-121329-
12-035840-
 

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1982 300CD
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If you can pop the clutch, but not get it to start with the starter, I would question the starter. Might not be spinning fast enough to give enough compression. Especially if you're killing the battery letting it spin...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Gregs300CD said:
If you can pop the clutch, but not get it to start with the starter, I would question the starter. Might not be spinning fast enough to give enough compression. Especially if you're killing the battery letting it spin...
well I guess that's another good thing to replace while I do the clutch. So plugs, clutch, starter... damn I need money. And how about this Bosch quick start glow plug kit?
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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The glow plug system you have in your car is just fine if all is working properly. Is your glow plug light working right? Have you tested the glow plugs with an ohm meter? Good ones read about 0.6 ohms cold. If you want to save a few bucks now, only replace the plugs that show as bad and only use Bosch or Beru, not Autolites. When was the last time a valve adjustment was done? Should be done every 15,000 miles. Timing chain stretch can be checked when you do the valve adjustment.

Any good diesel rated oil should be fine. They are usually a 15W40. There are lots of good parts places onlne. I use www.importec.com. There is also Caliber Motors, a dealer in CA that sells wholesale. Some use Arizona Autohaus and there's www. buy mb parts .com (you have to delete the spaces to make it work on BW for some reason, -"h-town"). Filters ought to be Mann, Knecht/Mahle or Hengst.

You probably ought to take a look at the brushes in the alternator too. That's a ten or fifteen minute job. Two screws on the back of the alternator and it's off.

Len
'83 240D 345,000 miles original owner
 

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As you can see, the typical plugs heat up pretty quickly. Even if the plug was at full glow in one second, it still needs to warm the engine. That's what really takes the time.

The glow plug (relay) upgrade that I'm familiar with for these cars just keeps them glowing a little after the car starts. This helps smooth out rough starts.

"Quick start", I don't believe it.
"Smooth start", your option if you feel you need it.
 

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Synchr0 said:
I'm having some starting problems with my 240D. After it's been sitting for a while it's pretty hard to start, and sometimes I kill the battery before I can get it started. Usually after this happens I can just roll down the driveway and pop the clutch and get it going. When I go to shift it into reverse there is major grind, I usually shift it in as quickly as possible and just get a minor clunk. It is in desperate need of a new clutch and I'm hoping that's the reverse grind culprit.

I'm planning on:
changing the oil (just bought it, don't know how long it's been)
changing plugs
installing a new clutch

I've already put a new battery in it, which seemed to help a little with the starting. It has an 80 mA draw with the key out, which I didn't see as anything to worry too hard about. I was hoping you guys could give me some advice on where to find the right oil filter and plugs online and also what oil I should be using (it has 210,000 miles on it). How hard is it to check stretch in the timing chain? Is there anything else I should be doing as preventative maintenance or just things that are a good idea? Thanks in advance, this is a great board that has already given me some great advice.
how much did you pay for the car by chance? im also buying a 1983 240d manual next week. Its white with black on black leather interior. Also when you go to replace the starter dont buy another one. Look online for a rebuild kit. The starter rebuild kit is a couple gaskets and a few contacts and its very simple. I drive a big ole 4x4 ram2500 cummins diesel and the starter was weak on it 3 years ago when i bought it and when i went to the parts store they quoted me 420.00 plus 80.00 core. I said wow and did a little research and bought a rebuild kit and then i dropped the starter and split it open. The contact on the Negative side going to the motor on my starter was burnt up and melted so i unscrewed it along with the positive side contact replace them and then put it together with the new gaskets and 6.00 dollars later the truck cranks on the first revolution. I do delivery in the truck so i do a lot of starting and last year the starter would just click and not try to start so i bought another kit and did the same think but this time the contacts where worn out evenly pretty much and she cranked up perfect. I am thankful for knowing this because that would of been a grand if i had to replace them.
 

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i sent a email to the shop i bought the rebuild kits for my truck and asked him about our starters due to the fact we will have same starter so i like to know for myself aswell.
 

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sokoloff said:
The glow plug system you have in your car is just fine if all is working properly. Is your glow plug light working right? Have you tested the glow plugs with an ohm meter? Good ones read about 0.6 ohms cold. If you want to save a few bucks now, only replace the plugs that show as bad and only use Bosch or Beru, not Autolites. When was the last time a valve adjustment was done? Should be done every 15,000 miles. Timing chain stretch can be checked when you do the valve adjustment.

Any good diesel rated oil should be fine. They are usually a 15W40. There are lots of good parts places onlne. I use www.importec.com. There is also Caliber Motors, a dealer in CA that sells wholesale. Some use Arizona Autohaus and there's www. buy mb parts .com (you have to delete the spaces to make it work on BW for some reason, -"h-town"). Filters ought to be Mann, Knecht/Mahle or Hengst.

You probably ought to take a look at the brushes in the alternator too. That's a ten or fifteen minute job. Two screws on the back of the alternator and it's off.

Len
'83 240D 345,000 miles original owner

whats wrong with autolite plugs? last time i checked bosch made autolites glow plugs when i worked for advance autoparts.
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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Lots of reports of premature failure with Autolites.

Len
 

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starter cost 79.99 at auto zone life time warenty i used auto light plugs they work fine for me i just need valves ajusted starts right up but stalls if i dont keep foot on pedel for 1 minute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Storx said:
how much did you pay for the car by chance? im also buying a 1983 240d manual next week. Its white with black on black leather interior. Also when you go to replace the starter dont buy another one. Look online for a rebuild kit. The starter rebuild kit is a couple gaskets and a few contacts and its very simple. I drive a big ole 4x4 ram2500 cummins diesel and the starter was weak on it 3 years ago when i bought it and when i went to the parts store they quoted me 420.00 plus 80.00 core. I said wow and did a little research and bought a rebuild kit and then i dropped the starter and split it open. The contact on the Negative side going to the motor on my starter was burnt up and melted so i unscrewed it along with the positive side contact replace them and then put it together with the new gaskets and 6.00 dollars later the truck cranks on the first revolution. I do delivery in the truck so i do a lot of starting and last year the starter would just click and not try to start so i bought another kit and did the same think but this time the contacts where worn out evenly pretty much and she cranked up perfect. I am thankful for knowing this because that would of been a grand if i had to replace them.

Paid $750. Thanks for the great info. I'll look into that further. Post here if your shop has some info.
 
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