[stickandtin]

I just bought an '82 300CD with 123,000 miles on the odometer. The odometer is working so I am assuming the mileage is correct. I have no idea what maintenance has been done to the car/engine other than oil changes. I do know the front end will need to be rebuilt or at least parts of it rebuilt. What other maintence items should be done to a 300CD with this mileage, again assuming nothing has been done to the engine/body etc.

Thanks-

Ron

 

[MBeige]

It depends on how the vehicle was treated.

Recommendation is to have the entire vehicle inspected by a trusted mechanic. Up to you whether you want him to cover ALL tiny details or focus on a more general safety inspection.

 

[Gregs300CD]

Bet on a valve adjustment. Also brake fluid, radiator, power steering, and transmission fluids change. Check the rear half axle boots, etc.

 

[Rmac58]

Yes, valve adjustment, all filters and fluids, including the rear end and brake fluid.

This will baseline the car.

Welcome aboard and post pics if you can.

 

[stickandtin]

Thanks everyone for the input. I do all my own mechanic work but have never owned a Mercedes diesel so not familiar with them and their maintenance needs. I did invest in a set of shop manuals. This forum is a treasure chest of information but haven't found a post or sticky on scheduled maintenance yet for the W123 with the turbo diesel which is why I asked the question. We also recently purchased a 2001 VW jetta TDI for my wife to drive. I will say this, in a very short time my wife and I have quickly developed a love and appreciation for German engineering and quality. I continue to be dumbfounded as to why American car companies can't or won't produce a vehicle comparable in reliability and quality. In fact I have give up owning a Chrysler or GM product and look to Ford as the last hope. My 2000 F250 7.3 turbo diesel is a spectacular truck.

Ok off the soapbox and back to the topic. What about the timing chain? When should it be replaced? I will also have to replace parts or do a rebuild on the front suspension. From what I can tell ball joints are worn out. I believe in preventative maintenance so am leaning towards redoing the whole front suspension. I also believe in safety and have read the threads about using the proper spring compressor. Which leads me to the next question, do the springs need replacing? The car has 123K but the springs are 30 years old.

I was reading on a production thread in 1982 around 1,962 turbo diesel coupes were produced. Is that figure accurate?

Thanks, Ron

 

[Rmac58]

Check the timing itself, but I would think nothing before 200,000 miles.

If your ball joint boots are torn, replace them. Inspect the upper control arm, especially where it meets the fender.

My SD has at least 250,000 miles on it and I do have the ALDA adjusted, I'm thinking a new timing chain would bring things back. I recently replaced two tie rods, both ucas and had a shop do the lower ball (supporting) joint. He did not have to remove the spring, but did have to remove the spindle.

I haven't taken a spring out, but use the proper compressor, PLEASE.

AFAIK, the springs are fine.

My CD has one replaced tie rod, both ucas, a lower ball joint, new inner and outer wheel bearings, rotors pads and a well executed alignment, drives wonderful.

Some folks will say these cars are archaic, but if those same folks were to drive a sorted out 123, I would like to hear their comments.

Not sure of production numbers.

 

[stickandtin]

Archaic huh.... I'll take simple archaic quality any day. This car is built to last and I can work on it without having to invest in 15k worth of computer diagnostic equipment or have to buy expensive electronic parts. Plus, I can tool on down the road at 70mph in comfort while getting 30 plus mpg. I love my W123 turbo diesel Benz! I'll try and post some pics soon.

Thanks for the input Rmac58

 

[Rmac58]

You're welcome.

A friend tells me a 124 chassis is so much better than a 123, I try to point out the above rationale, not sure if I got through!

I'm with you on the simplicity aspect.

 

[stickandtin]

I agree, all fluids need to be changed. My question is what fluids should I use? I know with our 2001 VW jetta, fluid recommendations are very specific. I already changed the oil and oil filter in the Benz. Used a quality filter and Schaeffer 15W40 synthetic blend diesel oil. Because of the low cetane rating of diesel in west texas(only 40) and poor lubricity of low sulphur diesel, I also use a mix of Schaeffer diesel treatment and low ash 2 cycle oil. This mixture added to the fuel sure has made the engine run smoother and it is less noisy. I also recently purchased some FPPF total performance diesel treatment which I will try on the next fill up.

I have searched for some recommendations for types of fluids but so far haven't found any. Is it safe to run synthetics in the AT, power steering pump and rear end? Or should I stick with Dino oils? What type of brake fluid? In the jetta, many folks recommend using the ATE blue brake fluid.

Any recommendations of what fluids are best for the W123 would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks-

Ron

 

[Rmac58]

I use Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc atf.

I use Valvoline power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir and Lucas heavy 80/90 in the rear end.

My local auto parts store carries Valvoline, that's the reason.

Synthetics should be fine.

ATE Blue brake fluid is fine also, but these are cars driven normally, not usually raced, I haven't had any issues. Flush the system routinely, no problems.

 

[Stretch]

In response to the original question - have a look at the rubber parts on the car. In particular, have a look at the rubber boots on the axles. If these little chaps leak out their oil the axles die quickly. It is a shame as the original axles are really well made - and the cheap replacement ones are apparently only good for a few trips round the block before they need to be replaced...

 

[stickandtin]

Army, that is a great suggestion. I have to say, the first time I crawled under this car for a look, I was amazed at the rearend set up. Never saw a car with rear wheel drive that had transaxles. I'm not sure Benz calls them transaxles, but that is what they looked like to me. I didn't pay much attention to whether or not the boots were damaged and wasn't aware of the importance of them not leaking oil. In American vehicles a small leak in the rearend is no big deal, just add a little oil. Thanks for the tip.

Ron

 

[Stretch]

Army, that is a great suggestion. I have to say, the first time I crawled under this car for a look, I was amazed at the rearend set up. Never saw a car with rear wheel drive that had transaxles. I'm not sure Benz calls them transaxles, but that is what they looked like to me. I didn't pay much attention to whether or not the boots were damaged and wasn't aware of the importance of them not leaking oil. In American vehicles a small leak in the rearend is no big deal, just add a little oil. Thanks for the tip.

Ron

Keep on looking at it Ron - you'll not believe your eyes (if you are used to American tin)!

You'll find that the engine, transmission, propshaft, subframe (at the back of the car), and differential are all on rubber mounts. Looking again you'll find that in addition to ball joints on the front suspension there's loads of rubber bushings front and rear. When these suspension rubber parts get tired you end up with a 1970s "Land yacht" feel to the car - just like the "good ship Venus". A W123 with new suspension rubber will feel more like a sports car than a wallowing in the corners slow to respond old lady. Please note I use the term "sports car" with some reserve - but I hope you get what I mean!

Back to the drive train => you'll also notice but one universal joint and two great big rubber flex discs...

...all very different from the average American cart horse sprung live axle rear end set up.

 

[stickandtin]

I hope this question isn't too far off my original topic, but it involves a rubber part. The rubber trim piece that fits in the slots of my rear bumper has come off and is sagging. Several of the molded hooks that hold it in place have broken off and it looks like a previous owner tried using some sort of adhesive to hold the rubber strip in place. Is this part available aftermarket or repairable some way?

Thanks, Ron

 

[Gregs300CD]

The impact strip coming loose seems to be a common problem on the US DOT bumpers. I've seen them come up on eBay every once in a while. Not sure if they are available new.

 

[Stretch]

PM our forum section moderator MBeige about bumpers - he's like bumper knowledge central...

 

[MBeige]

I hope this question isn't too far off my original topic, but it involves a rubber part. The rubber trim piece that fits in the slots of my rear bumper has come off and is sagging. Several of the molded hooks that hold it in place have broken off and it looks like a previous owner tried using some sort of adhesive to hold the rubber strip in place. Is this part available aftermarket or repairable some way?

Thanks, Ron

It's a common issue with age and minor impacts to the bumper. Your 82 might have the plastic rail, or it may have the metal rail. My bet is on the plastic rail.

The rail is where the impact strip fastens to. You have to curve the bumper impact strip so the "slot" will open and widen, in order for you to install the strip on the rail.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...9-front-bumper-rubber-strip-coming-loose.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/2803969-post20.html

 

[stickandtin]

MBeige, after reading your post and links, I went out and took a closer look at the impact strip. I now realize the impact strip is actually three pieces. The two plastic strips that fasten to the bumper via the hooks and oblong holes in the bumper and the rubber strip that slides onto the plastic strips. Upon closer inspection, the hooks were not broken at all, just covered in black silicone. I cleaned the silicone off and VOILA...the hooks slid back into the holes in the bumper. Now all I have left to do is install the rubber impact strip.

Thanks a million to everyone for the advice.

Ron

 

[stickandtin]

Army, took your advice and inspected the rubber boots on the rear transaxles. They are cracked from dry rot but don't appear to be leaking. Matter of fact most anything rubber under this car is suffering from dry rot. I am realizing I will have to replace a lot of bushings etc. I need to make a list of what needs replacing and attend to the most important things first. There also appears to be a hard plastic type of cover on the rear transaxles. Those appear to be in good shape. Question? Can the rubber boots be replaced and where is the best place to get them?

On to the plastic strips that hold the impact strip on. I got one put back on but the other one broke where the bumper makes the curve. I guess the plastic was brittle from age. Any ideas where to find those strips?

One more question. I have never seen a front suspension(or rear suspension) like the one under this car. Not sure what all the parts are called. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows all the parts and what they are called? Sure would be helpful for us newbies.

Thanks, Ron

 

[MBeige]

MBeige, after reading your post and links, I went out and took a closer look at the impact strip. I now realize the impact strip is actually three pieces. The two plastic strips that fasten to the bumper via the hooks and oblong holes in the bumper and the rubber strip that slides onto the plastic strips. Upon closer inspection, the hooks were not broken at all, just covered in black silicone. I cleaned the silicone off and VOILA...the hooks slid back into the holes in the bumper. Now all I have left to do is install the rubber impact strip.

Thanks a million to everyone for the advice.

Ron

Yep, the plastic rails slide into the holes on the bumper itself. If these rails slip and the impact strip cannot attach to them, you get the sagging impact strip.

Glad it worked out!