Does anyone have a photo of what the 81 300D torque converter drain plug looks like. I cant seem to find it..have briefly turned the motor over but see nothing. Is it accessible through the opening in the vent grill?
Thanks for responding. We did have this print out, but got confused when it referred to model 126 and gaining access thru the front axle crossmember. Anyway, we did turn the engine a couple of times, but did not see anything that resembled a plug. We will try again since we know it's in there somewhere!
i have a friend turn the engine slowly with a big wrench (i use the power steering pump, despite some warnings). When i see it coming i yell really loudly to stop! then he inches it (alway clockwise) until i can get the allen wrench in. Alternatively, i do it myself, which means getting really lucky, or crawling under the car 10 or 20 times. It's worth it, though!
An 88 yr old friend gave "Hildy" (this '81 300D in excellent condition w/ only 144,000 miles) to me and my husband. Hildy has been stored in a garage since July 1998 when our friend heard a noise and parked her there.
Anyway, this has been our little pet project - to bring her back to life. We have managed to drain the diesel, replace the fuel filters & a couple of hoses, change the oil and oil filters, and have even driven her around.
However, we are NOT mechanics by any means.... so this is probably a stupid question, but how do you "turn the engine by hand"? Are there online instructions with photos...pics are worth a thousand words - especially when you don't know where or what things are?
Now it is a bit more understandable why you couldn't find the torque drain plug.
Turning over the engine by hand is done by putting a socket (27 mm) on the front crankshaft bolt and using a ratchet to rotate the engine. If you stand before the engine, it must only be rotated clockwise/to the right. That is important, do not turn it the other way, that leads to serious damage. If you want to make sure, turn on the engine and see which way the engine is rotating, that is the way you should rotate it by hand.
And remove the socket and ratchet before starting the engine.
Now, another question...when initially trying to remove the transmission filter we mistakenly loosened about 3 of the bolts of the valve body but tightened them back.... do these bolts need to be torqued & if so, what are the specs?
Also, I've read so many threads about the correct amount of ATF to put back in. If both the transmission & the TC are completely drained (left open to drain overnite), how much fluid, if any, could possibly remain? Would you not replace the 6.4 qrt capacity called for in the manual (less ATF Protectant)?
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