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1977 240D 4-speed
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, please bear with this long tale of woe.
I was happily toolin along in my 1978 250D manual, when I noticed coolant pouring out on my driveway, and my temp gauge pinned. It was a short trip (.25 mi), so I hope I didn't overheat for too long.
Anyway, under car I saw that pure coolant was dripping down from the underside of the balancer, but due to the color I assumed it was the WP, or housing.
SO, I stripped the last bolthead ( the one behind the A/C bracket (that I spent 2 hours grinding with a dremel to access the bolt.),
then the extractor broke in it. F#*k!!!!
I noticed that the WP is attached to an aluminum housing, so instead of dealing with the bolt I decided to take off the A/C bracket and replace the whole assembl.
I got to the A/C idler assembly AND CANNOT REMOVE THE BOLT AT THE BACK. Its as if it is welded on. I have begun to strip it, so I don't want to press my luck. Any suggestions? What is the size of the bolt? Anybody have a methond for getting it off?
I thought that I could remove the whose thing, bracket and all, but the last bracket bolt IS BEHIND THE IDLER ARM (were these guys smoking pot when they designed this?)
I'm thinking of sawiing this bolt off just to get the A/C bracket and compressor off the block.
This has been a PITA and has only gotten worse. I already cried.
Any shared experiences/Knowledge would make me feel less isolated.
Thanks
:surrender::surrender:
 

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-88 250D, -93 280TE-24 Sportline and -00 E270T CDI
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898 Posts
You have my sympathy :) Pictures? I've done a couple of those w.p. housings, i think they give up from to little glycol in the coolant. But very few of our euro's have AC..
Where is your AC compressor placed? On my 83- 300TDT it was on the left side under the servo pump (PS-pump)?
 

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77 240d, 02 Ford F250 V10 (7mpg), 05 GMC Denali (The Baby Hauler), 2000 BMW 323CI (was my Bros car)
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817 Posts
The ac bracket shouldn't be that hard to get off. There are 2 17mm headed nuts down behind the alt and 1 on the exhaust manifold. There is 1 19mm headed bolt right behind the idler pulley and 2 13mm headed bolts that run through the water pump housing. One of those might have a spacer. The idler pulley bolt is removed with a 19mm wrench. If it is stuck try tapping the pulley arm with a hammer. That should brake it free.
 

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1977 240D 4-speed
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for all those specs!
I got the Idler pulley bolt off with a 19mm, finally.
Then,
the thermostat housing, couldn't get the damned thing apart, finally- hammer.
Then the thermostat itself. THe rubber gasket had fused to the metal around it. I had to burn it out.
But, all is well, and I must now wait for the gaskets, (and a few other things).
I'm going to leave the compressor off, as the system is (and has been for decades), void of refrigerant.
Anybody know of a hose source for the A/C, the one I've found is not even my application, and goes for like $300 bucks. I may just get the hoses made, probably be cheaper.
Thanks for the advice.
Diesel is at $5.00 a gallon here in SoCal, it was $4.30 only 5 weeks ago.
I want to maximize the mpg of this Manual 240D besides the obvious (tire inflation, momentuuum, etc) anybody have a list of suggestions for tuning these babies for mpg? (besides rebuilding the engine, I'm leaving the block alone for now), would repacking the bearings help?
 

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77 240d, 02 Ford F250 V10 (7mpg), 05 GMC Denali (The Baby Hauler), 2000 BMW 323CI (was my Bros car)
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817 Posts
Let me know which ac hose you need. I might be able to get you a new one cheaper than that. It depends on the hose. If you can wait a bit, I am converting my 79 Coupe to the newer style ac compressor so I will have the old stuff left over. If you have any questions give me a call at my shop.
Castle Fab
949-916-6229

Jon
 
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